sledgee
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Posts posted by sledgee
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Please stop telling me I shouldn't shoot without hearing protection. I know that. As I said, occasionally a quick shot at a coyote presents itself when I'm out and about in rural Texas. Anyone who has ever stopped a moving truck, jumped out with his rifle, and tried to nail a rapidly departing coyote with his rifle knows that there isn't much time. Every hunter I know at least occasionally fires a shot without ear protection. I, like most hunters I know, routinely hunt big game without ear protection. I need to hear when I'm hunting. Yes, I know electro-gizzies are available which will make me hear like Dumbo, but I don't want them.
As I said, one unprotected shot from a braked AR HURTS! One shot from an unbraked rifle doesn't.
I asked if anyone knew how much braking efficiency I would lose, and how much noise reduction I would gain, if I cut one or two chambers off a 3 chambered brake.
Apparently the answer is that no one does.
Oh, and it's a postban rifle, so the suggestion to put the brake on and off wouldn't work, either, even if it didn't change the POI, which my experience says it would.
I asked the question I asked because it is the question I need an answer to.
Joe
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Yeah, Dave Lauck's match came to my mind, too, but the shotgun threw me. I'm pretty sure no SGs are involved.
It is primarily built around one man with a precision (sniper) rifle, and one with a CQB carbine.
Joe
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Edit: (I was trying to make a joke but it came off as snotty so I deleted it.)
Joe
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Another cheapskate option, which keeps it square (optically way mo'betta):
I filed mine down. It takes constant checking with a caliper and a good eye to keep it centered, sides parallel, and square, and you need to be a fair hand with a file. (I also hand-checker.) You can check it for trueness by spinning it in a drill by the threaded shank.
I was aiming for .050", but ended up all square and true at .049".
Bushmaster has 'em, too, I think.
Joe
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The suspense is just too much to bear.
It's "Beyond Fundamentals", I swear!
Now my knees are a-wobble,
And my head is a-bobble,
And my boxers on my noggin I wear!
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I have a Miculek brake on my 20" AR15. I live in rural Texas, and generally have the rifle in the truck with me. It serves as a GP gun--competition, defense, plinking, occasional varminting.
It's LOUD. A quick shot at a cattle-hassling coyote, without ear protection, is PAINFUL. A shot or two from a brakeless rifle isn't. I'm wondering how much braking efficiency I'd lose, and how much noise reduction I'd gain, if I cut one or even two of the three chambers off. (I'm aware that I should never fire a gun without ear protection--but I do sometimes.)
It seems to me that the first chamber should be by far the most effective, the second less so, and the third less yet. That probably applies to noise production too, I reckon.
Another benefit would be shortening the rifle overall. As anyone who has used long guns in and around vehicles knows, every inch of OAL matters.
So...any thoughts? Or, better yet, experience?
Thanks.
Joe
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SiG Lady-
Unless he's going to nearly give it to you, I can't imagine that buying a 450 with the intention of upgrading it to a 550 would be cost/hassle-effective, unless you're also getting a LOT of accessories YOU can use with it. In the current Blue Press, a new 550 is $330, and all the components comprising the 450 upgrade to 550 total $256. $74 difference--and then factor in the rebuilding hassle and the fact that in the 550 you get a brand new machine, ready to rock. I assume he wants more than $74 for it.
If you're going to use it as is, this doesn't necessarily apply, of course. I don't have any experience with a 450.
I know I'm in the minority, but I actually prefer a Square Deal to a 550 for loading pistol ammo. (I mention that because I noticed you were also considering a Square Deal on another thread.)
BTW, what does "ENTJ" stand for?
Joe
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Flex$-
You're right. Clays is about at its limit (nearly too fastburning) when at major pf in 45. That's not necessarily a bad thing, though.
It translates into low charge weights (economy) and clean burning characteristics.
I really like it.
Joe
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Edit: It felt so good to delete my other snotty remark I thought I'd zap this one, too. Ah, sweet repentance...
Joe
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I hate "stealth" come-ons in the mail from mortgage, insurance, and especially credit card companies. I often get several in one day.
If they tell me on the envelope what it's about, fine. I can throw it away unopened--no harm done.
But if they print "Important Financial Information Enclosed!" or somesuch (or nothing at all) on the outside, I have to open it, even though I know the chances are 90+% it's an unsolicited come-on. (New credit cards, and sometimes checks, arrive in similarly incognito envelopes)
Why would I want to do financial business with someone who's sneaky?
My response, which would put a sudden end to this crap if millions did it, is to stuff all their junk in the postpaid return envelope and mail it back to them, at their expense.
Joe
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The torch should work better than rapid fire, I'd think. We want to heat the barrel as little as possible while heating the FS, so the FS will expand and the barrel won't.
I'd clamp the barrel in a padded vise, heat and try, heat and try, etc. I bet it'll turn right off, way before it gets hot enough to hurt anything.
Joe
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So over the weekend we'll wait
To learn, each of us, his fate.
But whate'er the result
All can surely exult
'Cause the readin' and writin' was great!
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Everyone knows iambic pentameter was an equestrian/spearchucking event in the ancient Grecian Olympics.
Polynikes usually won.
Joe
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Tightloop-
Are your compliments always accompanied by a jab? BTW, re-check the meter on your own work and then get back to me.
Joe
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So now a fresh onslaught of verse
And this one is surely no worse.
But a book it won't rate
'Cause it's coming too late
And a reshoot we cannot coerce.
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I like 4.7g Clays under a 200 LSWC. Cleanest load I've ever shot.
I got the load from Bill Wilson's little 1911 Maintenance Manual. I haven't chronoed it, but felt recoil is slightly less than hardball.
Joe
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Tightloop's late-shot appeal for the prize
Will do him no good, I surmise.
We'll know soon enough
Whose poem had the stuff
But John Browning should take any ties.
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A little drift...inspired by the Fat Kid.
Regarding the reliability of the Easy Loader. I installed mine, and it works great. On advice from this forum, I replaced the supplied roll pin with a pin I made from drill rod.
I've only got a few hundred rounds fired through it, but several thousand loaded in dry practice. No problems.
Are there other long-term reliability issues with the Easy Loader? If so, does the new CM system address them?
Thanks.
Joe
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I've just found brianenos.com.
The people here aren't so dumb.
They shoot fast as Hell,
And they mostly can SPELL!
I'm really quite glad that I've come.
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My pistol I truly adore,
With its 45 caliber bore.
It's a 1911.
Its design came from Heaven.
Mr. Browning would agree, I'm quite sure.
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I like to use a 22 for one-shot draws, which I practice a lot. Recoil doesn't matter here.
I also use my 22 for working on shooting on the move. I set up my steel C-zone, and run back and forth along the 180 line at about 10 yards, shooting as I go. One can burn up a lot of ammo in a short time doing this, and again, recoil isn't much of an issue, as I'm not shooting pairs. A few hundred rounds of this in an afternoon helps me a lot.
In the winter, I hunt cottontails with it.
After hearing mostly negative stuff about the conversions, I bought a Ruger 45/22 bull barrel for $180 new. Runs like a champ, magazines are cheap, same grip angle as a 1911, and it's a whole gun, not an accessory. For Glockers, the MkII appears to have a pretty similar grip angle to a Glock.
Of course you don't have the exact same grip and controls, as you do with a 22 conversion kit, but it's close enough for me.
Joe
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WOW! That's really impressive! Are you by any chance a lawyer?
What is the primary safety on a Glock?
How do you check it for function and engagement? (I assume you do that for each Glock shooter.)
Do you think that my pistol is less safe than a Glock? If so, why?
Could you address the questions Kurt asked in the second paragraph of his post?
Thanks.
Joe
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Jeffro- I understand your concern. I felt it too. When I analyzed it, though, I decided it was rooted in fear of a cocked hammer, which is largely irrational. Glockers blithely carry, handle and re-holster their 3.5# safetyless pistols, and no one bats an eye, much less dives for cover. As I said, I don't disable my grip safeties, so I consider my pistol in Condition 0 to be safer than a Glock with a chambered round. If I'm missing something (which is entirely possible), please help me out.
Kurt- Thanks for the support.
Singlestack- Why? (Please read the above regarding Glocks). And thanks for the warning. If I'm ever at a match and you're RO'ing, I'll just ask politely for another RO.
I have a design in my head which I think would produce a satisfactory ambi safety, but not the machines nor skill to make it. It would have a solid pin which protruded about .250" from the right side of the frame. The protruding end would be milled into either a hex or Torx configuration. A lever, with a press-fit female matching hole milled through it, would be held on by a Swenson-style under-grip finger. I think it would hold up to extended, hard, left-handed use.
Joe
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Jeffro-
You're definitely not crazy, at least when it comes to ambi safeties. I am also a lefty, and have found the King's to be the best. Also, in my experience, this is one area where the superiority of tool steel over stainless really shows up. The blue ones stay tight longer, and the King's hold up better than others, but after 20 years I just got tired of fooling with them. They all loosen up, and that bothers me.
That little joint in the middle just sucks. It's not up to its job, and never will be. For rightys, the right-side thumbpiece is just along for a no-load ride, and that's why they don't see the problem. We leftys operate the safety through that joint.
I developed a taste for slim grips a few years ago, so now have no place for the safety to stop, which exacerbates the problem. I considered drilling and tapping the frame for a stud to support the safety, but instead chose a simpler, but more radical solution about a year ago.
I use a standard GI righthander's safety, cut most of the thumb pad off, deepen the detent in the fire position, and just never use the thumb safety at all. I have a functioning grip safety, so I consider this setup at least as safe as any Glock.
It seemed like a grenade with a pulled pin at first, but I've grown completely comfortable with it. I can't see myself ever going back.
Joe
Grip Pressure-thumb On Safety Question...
in Handgun Techniques
Posted
Brian-
I think I have such a design. The pivot pin would be solid (that's where all the trouble is), and protrude say .200" out the right side of the gun, with the protruding part machined to form a male hex or, better yet, Torx stud. The lever would have a corresponding female socket, milled clean through.
The lever should be a snug press-on fit, and could be retained by a Swenson finger under the grip, a setscrew, or even a dovetailed hammer pin a la King's. There would be no stress on the retention device, and I lean toward the Swenson finger.
Why don't you get someone to produce it? You can have the money--just give me two of them and call it the Sledge safety.
Joe