aessu
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Posts posted by aessu
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I've been using Burris PEPR w/ Millett DMS-1 for 8 months now, in temperatures ranging from -20 to +30 Celsius and I've been very happy with it!
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Breakfree CLP
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Yes it does. True 1X is faster on the close stuff.
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My opinion: I've been shooting with a lightened carrier, empty buffer, adjustable gas system and pmags with nordic +18 extensios for 5k rounds - with two malfunctions, both of them bad primers. The ammo I've been shooting has been either polymer coated or lacquered russian steel cased Barnaul ( I think its not available in USA). If you clean your rifle every 200 rounds or so, or atleast add some oil, a lightened system will work.
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Get a rifle length. 1:7 twist (wich is faster than 1:9, not the other way around as you say) will shoot those 52gr bullets just fine.
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I have used one. And its not a carbine buffer + endine, its a shortened carbine buffer and endine. It takes the "sharpness" out of the buffer hitting the bottom of the tube - i like the feel, some dont. YMMV
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I really dont see why anyone is using heavier than standard buffers, especially in a competition rifle. Lightening the mowing parts is a way to go, but you need adjustable gas system before that!
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TA11 vs Variable (1x -4x)?? I'm looking for the "ONE" great optic for under $1000.
You cant beat Meopta K-DOT 1-4x for that. about 800usd, true 1x and VERY bright dot.
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A good zero is your 1st and foremost accessory!
Then all you need is a trigger, freefloat tube, and comp. (And Bennie Cooley won a National Championship without the comp!)
I totally agree with you about the zero. I'll put it on the list.
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I think the Weaver 1-3 is great budget optic at under $200. The Millett is not day time lit so the illumination isn't worth much and the Weaver is a true 1x. I have both and I would buy more Weavers, but not another Millett.
Not being true 1x doesnt bother me, i can use it with both eyes open. And the reticle is big enough to work without illumination on those hoser stages and i really like having 4x on the upper end.
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I think i can feel a light difference between Mid-length and rifle length. And i think that John Paul said that its not really wise to use lightened carriers with other than rifle length systems.
Also, when it comes to practice, a .22lr kit is your friend. You can practice everything else than doubles with it!
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The short answer
Trigger,,,, I like the JP,, but some of the drop in's are very nice quick and easy.
Free float tube,,, a full length one,,, get all of that stuff off of the barrel,,
For scope,, a scope mount that holds your scope in the right position for you to comfortably, see through it,
your scope needs to be low power,, 1X whatever you can get,, 1.5X4 ish works the best,, buy the best your money can get,,, Burris has a XTR 1x4 that is great for the money,,
I own a Leopold MRT 1.5X5 I like too,,,
Buy ammo and practice
Jim M ammo
Sorry, i accidentally posted it before I was anywhere near finished. This was ment to be a sort of FAQ. It's still not complete, I'll probably keep adding stuff now and then.
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Since there seems to be a huge amount of threads about this ones, I thought I'll cover the basics here, in different sections.
For me, there is no alternative to rifle length gas system. Recoil impulse is the softest with it. Barrel profile and length are upto personal preferences. I also prefer a fixed length stock. I really cant decide that wich is better, the A2 or ACE ARFX.
Recoil elimination and other gun control:
Step 1) A good trigger and compensator. IMHO, one is useless without the other.
For Tactical class, JP Bennie Cooley, F2, Rolling Thunder, SJC Titan are all good choices. If you are on a budget, get a Miculek. For Open, IMHO the only choice is JP Recoil-Eliminator (aka the "Tank Brake").
For trigger, I'd go with J-P or Jard. Both are good, one likes the another better than other. Remember, a good trigger is worth the money - Sometimes all thats needed to turn a good shooter to a great shooter is a good trigger.
Step 2) Adjustable gas system
A J-P adjustable gas block is the way to go here, I'd say. You can also WECSOG one, if you dare, like I did.
Step 3) Lighter buffer.
Less repricotating (i really cant spell that word) mass means less muzzle movement.
If you dont want to WECSOG get a J-P LMOS buffer for starters. If you want, take the weights out of your current buffer. Make sure to readjust the gas system before shooting the rifle again! If you start encountering problems with bolt bounce, put one of the weights back in.
Step 4) Lighter carrier / reverse hydraulic dampening
This one is one tricky side. You can do either, or both. J-P LMOS is the carrier to look at.
For reverse hydraulic dampening, WECSOG kicks in again. You need a rifle length buffer tube for this. Put a Endine Carbine lenght AR-Restor reversed to the back of your buffer tube. Put in the spring. Then put in your shortened buffer. The buffer needs to be shortened so that its length equals the difference in length between the completely compressed Endine buffer and the normal rifle length buffer.
The ergonomics:
Like said before, i prefer a fixed length buttstock. But here you go. Again, some of these are up to personal preference.
1) The grip. I just plain hate the standard grip. Magpul MOE with some bicycle inner tube is my choice. ERGO also makes some nice grips. This is a personal preference.
2) Free Float Tube
No alternative to one here. You really need one so that you can rest the rifle on barricades etc. without worrying about the change in point of impact. J-P VTAC is really nice. DPMS is one to go for those of you on a budget. I really see no need for 4-rail handguards when it comes to 3-gun.
Sights.
First. Know your zero. Even the best scope or best set of sights in the market is useless without a proper zero! Know your holdovers etc.
For Tactical Irons, I'd go with Plain ol carry handle and a A2 style FSB at the very end of the muzzle, just before the compensator.
For Tactical Optics. This is where it gets tricky. IMHO there is nothing that can beat a good 1-4X... well except a good 1-6x.
There are basically only a few options. Millett DMS-1 for those of you on a tight budget. Its not close to real 1x (perhaps 1.2x really) and the illumination aint daytime visible, but its still good for the money. Next would probably be the Meopta K-Dot, Burris XTR and Trijicon Accupoint TR24. I only have personal experience about the K-Dot, and I really like it. Really close to true 1x. One step higher we have the Swarovski Z6i 1-6x. True 1x to me and the 6x magnification makes those long shots a bit easier. But it comes with price.
I'll add things here when I find out that something is missing. Please keep in mind that many things come to personal preferences when its about shooting. Most of the things expressed here are my personal opinions. YMMV.
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Primary arms M3-style red dot.
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If you are willing to spend that kind of money, why not just get the swarovski Z6i... Or buy a Meopta 1-4x22 K-Dot and use the 1000 bucks for ammo.
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It can be done easily at home, if you got the right tools - upper receiver vice block, barrel nut wrench and a torgue wrench.
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For trigger, I like Jard the best. It's even lighter than the JP. For optics I would go with Meopta K-Dot 1-4x. I see no point in running an ACOG when you can have the Meopta. And it's even cheaper.
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Lighter the better. I like the Jard 1½#
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I'd say get a Spikes upper. Their customer service is top notch!
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but, you need adjustable gas system to take full advantage of them. I have a empty rifle buffer and lightened carrier in my rifle. W/o adjustable gas it woulds tear apart the casing, but with adjustable gas it runs fine. There is one thing though. Once you adjust the gas system to a specific load, stick to it, if not, you are begging for problems...
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I run federal champion 40gr/1240fps on mine. works fine.
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Please, dont use all Caps, as it is considered yelling here in the Internet.
Second. There is some interchangability, but not much. I'd say get a DPMS rifle, because there are magpul .308 PMAGs and C-product mags available for it. CMMG lowers are also compatible with DPMS. Remington R-25 parts are also compatible with DPMS.
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My opinion is the same, except when used in the reverse hydraulic dampening, like the one in the pic was.
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They work well, but not like you would think you would use them.
Not my pic, but I'm going to get a similar setup, in terms of buffers.
How to make rifle buffer lighter ?
in Rifle - Technical
Posted
I've been running mine completely empty with lightened carrier 0 malfunctions using P-MAGs with NC +18 extensions, and using steel case ammo...