steveyacht
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Posts posted by steveyacht
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OK, I have been talking with my local gun dealer lately while trying to trade my Para 12-45 towards a Glock 17 or 34. I nearly fell over when I heard his offer!! (or lack thereof) He went on to tell me how, at one time, he was selling a BUNCH or them, then over the past couple of years he has been struggling with them. He mentioned that Para is suffering from a bad reputation and poor reliability. I am not sure if there are any consistancies, but I would like to know more.
I have owned a P12-45 and a P14-45 Limited in SS and to be honest, have never had a problem with either that wasn't traceable to operator error. I know that they aren't an STI, Baer, Wilson, any other custom 1911/2011 but..... some of us are not ready/able to afford one but want to shoot a nice 1911/2011 style gun.
All feedback is appreciated, good, bad or indifferent.
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Other than Para and STI what are my choices when looking for a 1911/2011 double stack in 9mm without breaking the bank. I love the STI's but at approx 2 grand a pop is over my budget. Prefer to stay under $1300.00
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On Firday, I received my first ever Glock, a model 17. Anticipating its purchase, I ordered couple light striker springs and a 3.5# connector from Lone Wolf. I did the 25 cent trigger job as described so well here on my 17 and a friend's G34 (her's already had the lighter connector). While the trigger was noticeably better on her's and mine, the one on her G 34 felt much better and with less slack to take up.
Is there anyway to reduce the amount of this long take up? Or, is it something that I just need to get used to? Keep in mind that I am used to 1911's, single action revolvers, and high end competition O/U shotguns that have triggers with virtually no take up and have a very crisp 3.25 to 3.5# break with nearly no overtravel.
While at the time of my order I didn't know about changing the trigger spring to the Wolff 6# model. Will this help the over-all feel of trigger with the modifications that I already made?
Other than getting some grip tape, a good BladeTech holster and possibly a set of sights (I actually like the ones sights that are on it) Are there any other things that y'all can suggest? Oh yea, I already bought some Slide Glide from our host.
Gotta love this Board,
Steve
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I changed the Mainspring (hammer spring) and Recoil spring in my 1911 (45 acp)style gunfor Wilson's 19lb Main and their 15lb recoil spring. Now the hammer is following the slide and doesn't always lock back with my thumb. What in the world happened? I swear I did nothing else other than clean and lube with Brian's Slide Glide......Nothing else!! I swear!!! N what do I do????
Thanks in Advance!!
your leaf spring might not be installed correctly, where it engages the sear and disconnector
Technically stated... Looking at the leaf spring thingie from behind. The leaf to the left side may not be laying on top - as it should be.
Yup, got the sear leaf under rather than over.
Got it!!!! Thank you!!
Steve
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I changed the Mainspring (hammer spring) and Recoil spring in my 1911 (45 acp)style gunfor Wilson's 19lb Main and their 15lb recoil spring. Now the hammer is following the slide and doesn't always lock back with my thumb. What in the world happened? I swear I did nothing else other than clean and lube with Brian's Slide Glide......Nothing else!! I swear!!! N what do I do????
Thanks in Advance!!
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I have learned a great deal by finding this site and am thankful for everyone's help. I bet that somewhere there is a serial number breakdown of the Different Generations. The accessory rail is not all that improtant, I was thinking it may nice to have light/laser combo on a home defense gun.......... but not having one gives me an excuse to buy another gun! Of course there is always Crimson Trace.
Thanks again,
Steve
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One signficant difference is that Gen 1 9mm's only having one pin securing the locking block and the slide release. The later models also have longer frame guides and the locking blocks have more steel.
It appears as if I have a Gen I in 9mm the reason I bought it was a great price as well as there is virtually no detectable wear on anything. Previous owner said it was a nightstand queen and it appears as if he is correct. I assume that it is still a quality piece with no major weakness. Just one quick question, can an accessory rail be added?
Thanks.
Steve
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I keep hearing about the different Generations of Glocks. Are there any significant mechanical or operational differences between the Generations?
Thanks
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Great insights - I appreciate the feedback and comments. I'll swing by and see if the Benelli Super Sport II is still "beckoning".......
I have friend that had one and I shot it extensively. I found it to be a reliable shotgun but also found it too light for my liking. It felt "whippy" to me, particularly compared to my Kemen KM-4 with 31.5" barrels. The other thing that I did not particularly care for was what I term to be a mushy trigger, again compared to my Kemen.
What I do like is the simplicity of take down for cleaning, reliality, and durability.
You may want to find one you can shoot before laying out your money, particularly since you are used to shoting an O/U.
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How does one go about taking off a minor amount of excess material to fit a barrel bushing?
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Since I am not yet reloading my own ammo, I have been using whatever I can get a deal on. I have been looking at Federal's American Eagle 9mm in 147gr @ 960 FPS. Would you consider this to be an all around good choice for Steel Challenge and USPSA Production class? How do you feel it may compare to Atlanta Ammo's 147 grain?
Thanks
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I am very new to Glocks, being a 1911 kinda guy until yesterday, when I put together a deal on my first Glock, a model 17. I know that they come with a plastic guide rod, is there any distinct advantage to going with a steel guide rod or am I letting my "plastic paranoia" get to me?
Thanks.....
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Bagmaster Bag that I have had for years
Bob Allen mesh Hull Bag for brass, Rolls up small and I can clip it to belt if need be.
Ammo in Small boxes.
Molded Ears from local Audiologist Double up with Peltors for Indoor Ranges
Randolph Rangers with 3 different colors and Sunbuster with 5 lenses. I am pretty fussy about my lenses mostly for Shotgun target sports, I haven't the different color lenses as important for handgun.
I carry three small plastic cases from car radio faceplates that I keep some bandaids, Long Q-Tips, Sharpies, Small Screwdriver, as well as Wilson Combat's Spring kit.
Bore Snake in a ziplock
Still have plenty of room for "Other Necessities" Advil, Bug Spray, Sunscreen, couple of bandanas, old rag, sweat shirt, etc.
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I gave one a try about a year ago and found the trigger improvement to be negligible. Over adjusting the set screw can disengage the trigger safety.
A much better modification is the 25 cent trigger job, 4.5# connector, and a heavier trigger spring imho.
PharoahBender,
Thank you, you and the rest just saved me some money!
I will be doing the 25 cent trigger job, intalling a 3.5# Lone Wolf Connector, installation of a Wolff reduced power striker sprng. (Based on the information gleaned from here and the Glockmeister site.) This should give the following results:
Glock 3.5 Pound Connector (G35C) and a Wolff RPFPS 2.0# Peak Take Up Pull and a 3.375# Trigger Break Pull.
I have noticed that you all suggest a heavier trigger spring. Which one specifically would you suggest so I can get those ordered also? As I mentioned before myself and my friends have over the past week purchased or traded for three Glocks..... a 17 Long Slide, a 34 and a 17. I will be doing the 25 cent trigger jobs to all, and adding the 3.5# connectors to the two G17s. Any other suggestions are appreciated!
Wish me luck.
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Does anyone use the Lone Wolf Ultimate Trigger stop or a similar product? If so I would appreciate your feedback.
Thanks
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steveyacht,
You've been beating around the forum pretty hard trying to figure all this stuff out.
Let me just tell you what to buy. It may not be perfect. Others may like different stuff. It will be damn good for the tasks at hand. And, if you hate it...there is a ready market to sell it and not take a bath.
For IDPA (Stock Service Pistol division) and USPSA (Production division)...
- Glock 34
- Sevigny (Warren) sights.
- Tru-grip grip tape
- get rid of the extended slide stop/release and replace it with the stock size.
- new Blade-tech DOH (dropped and off-set) for USPSA, and get the Stingray belt attachment (for IDPA)
- 5-6 hicap 9mm mags (G17 and G34 mags are the same)
- 2 of the Blade-tech double mag pouches (any brand will do, you can just buy these in a package with the holster though)
I hope that my questions on the forum are not aggravating anyone.
That said, as a result of my questions, I have had one friend buy a Glock 34 "package"(set up like you desecribed) from one of our fellow forum members and another buy a Glock 17 Long Slide yesterday, while another purchased a Dan Wesson Patriot. These are three female shooters that are new to organized competition events such as USPSA, Steel Challenge and soon to be introduced to Three Gun.
For better or worse I am their mentor, the guy they depend on for advice and minor gunsmithing. Since I am fairly new to "plastic fantastic" guns even though I have mediocre experience with 1911's, S&Ws, Target Shotguns as well as being a collector of single and SxS barrel shotguns (ca 1880-1930) I am still learning the "new stuff".
Now it is my turn to get a 9mm (ammo cheaper in bulk) as I already have a pretty decent 45acp set up. All I have to do first is to sell or trade my Para for a G17 or G34. Hope that explains.
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I am wanting to get into some production shooting as well as continue my limited 10 forays. I have been vascilating between the Glock 17, the Glock 34 and the CZ 75B SA. I have heard nothing but good about the CZ's and their Italian cousin the Tanfoglio's. Needless to say, I have looked at and shot several Glocks and am warming up to them also, but still have a bit af an issue with the trigger, me being a 1911 junkie.
Lately, I have been researching the CZ and Tangfoglios for a couple of reasons. #1) I prefer a SA trigger, even if I have to endure a DA first shot. #2) So much said about their accuracy and quality. #3) Used ones seem to be such a great value when compared to others. #4) Have a very good reputation for reliability. #5) Excellent ergonomics
On the down side there are no dealers for either anywhere near me (coastal South Carolina), Not as many goodies available, Hard to pronounce for us southern types (Hey is dat dare one of dem Tank Fog Leos?)
But, I have always liked the more esoteric, one of the reasons I have a Kemen and not a Perazzi.
Looking forward to your opinions.
Steve
So Many Guns........ So Little Money!!!!
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That is a broad question, but I will try to answer it...all new Glock magazines are drop free and FML (full metal lined). 17rd 9mm magazines will work in any 9mm Glock, just as 15rd 40cal magazines will work in any 40cal Glock. *Most* new Glock magazines are redesigned to work with the newest Glock lowers that use an ambidextrous magazine release.
Is there something more specific that you are looking to find out?
Thank you, I should have provided more information. Specifically, will 9mm Mags from a G34 fit a G17?
Thanks
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I am looking to use the proceeds from my Para P12-45 and purchase a gun to use in Production class and steel matches. It has been suggested that I look at the CZ 75 series as well as the Tanfoglio clones. I like the idea ahat they are offered in SA only, at least the CZ is 75B SA and CZ75 TS are. Being as there are no dealers within a couple hundred miles of me that handle either of these, which would you consider over the other and why?
Thanks,
Steve
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Are they all the same? Except for capacity and drop free?
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Other than a slightly longer barrel, what are the other differences between a Glock 34 and a Glock 17 Long Slide? I am considering getting one for production class. I know about the better trigger and extended slide and mag releases. but other than that, I am thinking that is about.
By the way, are all Glock 9mm high capacity magazines the same? (other than capacity and drop free of course)
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I bet your chamber is getting crap in it from the case not sealing up like with normal IPSC load . Run a bore snake in it = remove the barrel first and see if the loaded round drop in good before you clean it. I like 38 super comp because I can drop the round in back-wards to see if my cases have expanded at the base, as a secondary check.
Too much lube kept the extractor from grabbing the case 
O Really Can I save that one for when my BS starts to run low? 
Thanks, I'll try that this evening. And yea, too much lube struck me as a bit odd, because to para phrase Jerry Miculek: if it ain't dripping it ain't got enough lube on it.
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Well, for what it is worth, she choose the Glock 34 in part because of one being available from of one of the members of this forum. Personally I am happy she chose this over the Springfield mostly because of the avaialbility of parts, accessories, support and the longer sight radius. Other than that, they were pretty equally matched.
Thank you all for your kind suggestions and sage advice! She had been monitoring this site and has found it most helpful.
Steve
Now have her become a BE member. That way she can tell us how she likes it.
She already is!
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Well, for what it is worth, she choose the Glock 34 in part because of one being available from of one of the members of this forum. Personally I am happy she chose this over the Springfield mostly because of the avaialbility of parts, accessories, support and the longer sight radius. Other than that, they were pretty equally matched.
Thank you all for your kind suggestions and sage advice! She had been monitoring this site and has found it most helpful.
Steve
Too much lube kept the extractor from grabbing the case 
O Really Can I save that one for when my BS starts to run low? 
Bead Blasting?
in General Gunsmithing
Posted
I am assisting a friend in bringing a Dan Wesson Patriot back from cosmetic hell. Whoever owned it was obviously very rough on the gun, grips were shot, many scratched on the frame and slide and it appears as if they attempted to polish out the matte finish on the top of the slide. We want to get that matte finish back. I am thinking about masking off all except the area that we want to refinish, then blast it with some sort of media. What sort of media would you suggest?
Thanks.
Steve
PS: Oh Yea, we are also replacing all springs and any internal parts that are worn or damaged. Pretty much rebuilding the whole thing.