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yuthh

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Posts posted by yuthh

    Bolen + Caspian tube

    in 1911-style Pistols

    Posted

    This is a subject worthy of its own thread, and there may not be one simple answer. But, here is my long winded version.

    Last year I got a few of Caspian’s new style .38 super mags and after a lot of experimentation, and several conversations with people who know more about this stuff than me, I realized the biggest issue with the new mags is the need for deeper funneling indents to stack the rounds up better. Based on posts I read here and the conversations with other folks I figured this could be done in three ways:

    1) Metal work the indents deeper using mandrel and metal forming tools

    2) Squeeze the indents deeper using a vise

    3) Add inserts to the inside of the indents to make them deeper

    Mr. Beven Gram recommended using the metal working method, while Mr. Jim Anglin has posted a recommendation using the squeeze method.

    Of course, being an oddball I chose to go with the insert method (using nickel silver guitar frets as inserts). All three will work, it just depends on what you have to work with and your comfort level. If I had access to a mill to make a good mandrel I probably would have gone with the metalworking method, but since I didn’t I worked with what I had and installed guitar frets on the inside indents. The recommendation from Mr. Gram, and my experimentation proved, was that an increase the depth of each indent .025 - .050” will stack the rounds up nicely and eliminate the 2nd round gap. So, I used a guitar fret wire (stew-mac #155) which after installation increases the depth of each indent by 0.050 inches. The installation is fairly straightforward and the whole modification process takes less than an hour for each mag - I used a dremel and a .024” thick cut off wheel to cut a slit along the ridge of the indents from the outside of the mag, then sized and shaped lengths of fretwire to sit in the slits on the inside, then soldered the frets into place using standard 60/40 solder and a big azzed soldering iron. I didn’t want to overheat the mag tubes by silver soldering, so just used standard solder. The frets and the exposed metal of the mag body take solder well and I haven’t had one come lose yet and I’ve been using these exclusively for about 6 months now. If one does come loose, it is an easy fix to re-install.

    Besides increasing the indentation depth here is what else was done to the mags:

    1. Shortened feed lip length to about .460ish long with dremel (I think that Caspian is shipping the mags with the lips shortened to this length, now) and made sure the feed lips were burr free and baby butt smooth.

    2. Deepened notch between feed lips on the back side of the mag to avoid contact with the slide’s polished disconnector track when slamming mags in place during reloads.

    3. Set feed lip opening to about .360 front to back (use a loaded .38/9mm round as a gauge). Maybe a few thousands more open towards the front…but not too much otherwise the bullet will want to angle nose up and the top round will create its own 2nd round gap.

    4. Installed Grams spring and follower. Bent the spring up to increase the angle on the follower to about 15 degrees or so to help push up the front of the bullets. The mags work better after the springs take a set and the springs relax a little so I left them full for a day or so to break the springs in. Too much spring pressure will cause the top round to cam down when the .38super semi-rim drags against the top of the 2nd round and can cause a nose dive. Probably not an issue for 9mm or .38 supercomp rimless.

    5. Disassembling these mags takes all of about 5 seconds, so keeping them clean is super easy. I’ll disassemble, run a brush and rag through them, make sure the spring and follower is clean, give a squirt or two of the CRC silicone spray (acetone base evaporates off and doesn’t leave oily residue – cheap and available at Wally World), then use a brush to wipe the silicone around, and reassemble. The will run without lube OK, but the silicone spray sure seems to help.

    Doing a bit of searching on here about the Caspian and EAA mags (which are similar) might be helpful, too.

    Post on Caspian hi-cap mags:

    http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=118831&hl=caspian mag thread&st=0

    Look at post #50 by Jim Anglin (jjanglin) – here he describes how to squeeze the mag to help the rounds stack up. Also recommend that you search for and read through all of Mr. Anglin’s posts as he shares a lot of very good info on the Caspian and EAA mags which might help you.

    http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=100423&st=25&p=1413210&hl=mag%20spring%20bend&fromsearch=1entry1413210

    General info on 2nd round gap and nose diving:

    http://38super.net/Pages/Overall%20Length.html

    OK, that is my story and I'm sticking to it.

    [/quoteciate]

    Some picture would be great appreciate !

    Bolen + Caspian tube

    in 1911-style Pistols

    Posted

    Not sure if you are asking about the “old” style mag tubes (hold 19) or the “new” style (hold 21) tubes.

    Old Style - I never messed with aftermarket followers in the old style since the indents on each side at the tube bottom limited the round capacity to 19, and the stock follower with hi-power springs were reliable. Did get an EGW +2 basepad and removed the indents on a mag to try to make it hold 20 or 21, but I couldn’t get the mag to work reliably.

    New Style –I haven’t used any of the Bolen stuff but I have had real good results with the Grams springs and followers. You can easily get 22 reloadable .38 super/9mm in the mag, and by cutting a coil 23 reloadable is do-able and reliable (all of mine will do 23 but I usually just run 22 unless there is an advantage for a specific stage). If you want Grams parts for the Caspian contact Grams Engineering directly to get the right springs/followers, Beven is super helpful. The biggest reliability hurdle for me with the new style mags wasn’t the spring/follower, but rather increasing the depth of the funneling indentations on the mag tubes to help stack the rounds better and eliminate the dreaded 2nd round gap.

    How did you increasing the depth of the funneling indentation on the tube ? I had no luck with Grams internal on both 9mm and 40 cal. The bullets start to nose dive after 13-14 rounds ( 9mm ).Thanks

    No shoot on a drop turner target.

    in USPSA/IPSC Rules

    Posted

    I agree with Corey. If you put a no-shoot on a disappearing drop turner,

    I believe most shooters would not engage it. Risk/Reward is not in your

    favor.

    That's the point.Take it or leave it.The reason I like no shoot over hard cover is most of the time when we see disappearing targets. Some people(including myself) try to shoot as many round, as fast as they could in order to get the hit and not even see the sight or dot. Some shot hit the target,some hit the stand. Anyway the target will be only 7 ft away from where you can see it. I just want to make sure I am not doing something against the rule. Thanks for all input guys

    Y

    Correct primer erosion.

    in General Gunsmithing

    Posted

    Shoot a slower powder & it will not happen.

    Truth.

    I burnt the piss out of my breechface with 4.0 grains of Titegroup and Fed SP Mag primers. The problem went away when I went back to WSF.

    I use AA#7 from the first day of this gun and never changed.Switched back and forth between 124gr and 125gr bullet.PF somwhere 177-180(I know it's hot and this might be the issue and I addmitted). :rolleyes:

    Correct primer erosion.

    in General Gunsmithing

    Posted

    Back in the days of Jim Clark, Sr., his shop was known for installing a hardened steel bushing in the firing pin hole. That particular bushing was offset to compensate for the higher lock-up of a barrel with welded feet, but I would assume that a non-offset one could be made also.

    I have sent them an email.I am curious how it looks like on the slide.

    Can you let me know if they are doing this, I am interested since it will prolong the slide from being replaced.

    I will.

    Correct primer erosion.

    in General Gunsmithing

    Posted

    Back in the days of Jim Clark, Sr., his shop was known for installing a hardened steel bushing in the firing pin hole. That particular bushing was offset to compensate for the higher lock-up of a barrel with welded feet, but I would assume that a non-offset one could be made also.

    I have sent them an email.I am curious how it looks like on the slide.

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