Kenny

G-ManBart Thanks for posting and bumping up to the top. This is the first I see of this post and really appreciate you sharing. I will be building a STI limited gun a little later on this year and was looking for someone to do this work on my grip. Now I will be able to do it myself. Thanks,

G-ManBart, Thanks for the info, I appreciate the link. I have a better understanding now of how to use the search function after reading the instructions. Thanks again for the help. Best,

I use SS parts no matter how it's going to end up. I just usually have them around already. If you're going to have it chromed, it really doesn't matter. Matt, Thanks for responding with that information. When using stainless parts, do the stainless parts go through the chroming process or do you leave them as is? If you leave them as is do you just send the frame and slide to the finisher or do you send the hole gun? Best,

Nice Blaster, Nice detail! I like the Bull Barrel also. I plan on building one along these lines and I have a question about the finish, in this thread it was stated that it was hard chromed. When you are getting a gun hard chromed do you use stainless parts (TS, GS, Slide Stop, etc..) or do you use carbon steel and have all of the parts hard chromed? I would also like to know where I can have an STI grip finished like that. Again, Nice Blaster, I bet it is a pleasure to shoot. Best,

I have a question concerning recoil springs. I will be building a 6" limited gun in the .40S&W and would like to know what I am looking for when selecting the proper weight recoil spring. I will be building this gun on the STI frame with the 6" STI slide and a Bar-Sto bull barrel. I have ordered both a 16# and 14# recoil spring to try when I get ready to fire the gun. What I really need to know is how does someone go about testing or calibrating per say the gun with the right spring. What signs do you look for when test firing? do you work up different loads and try each with different spring rates? how do you know when the spring is too light so I don't batter the frame and cause damage? Is the way the gun ejects empty casings (distance thrown from the gun) a sign to look at. I would also assume the way the gun handles recoil and responds after the shoot is also a determining factor. Also what would be considered too light a spring for this type of gun? Any help would be appreciated as I am new to this Forum. Best,

If you are interested in taking an online course, the patriot course is top notch. I think Bill Zollo still may have a few spots left for the 2009 class, here is his email address patriotcustoms@comcast.net Shoot him an email if you are still interested. You can also check out the Patriot COP website http://www.1911patriotcop.us/ Here are a few pictures of my Patriot, P86.

Hey Guy's New to this forum! I went through and read the link that BritinUSA posted, a lot of good info. I too shoot right handed and am left eye dominant and have only been able to shoot with my left eye closed. If I understand some of the things that I have read here, one method is to put a piece of clear tape on the lens of my glasses for my left eye. Another option is too shoot with both eyes open using my left dominant eye however this doesn't sound right. So am I understanding this correctly? I can draw my pistol with both eyes open and and get a good sight picture using my left eye. I have never tried to shoot this way. Best, Kenny