ihocky2
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Posts posted by ihocky2
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1 hour ago, rowdyb said:
The 17 round mags are more ubiquitous, that's the reason to go with them. It is easier to find basepads, replacement springs and such. You can even get a nickel plated version. I shoot and have shot for years a SP01 Shadow in IDPA in SSP.
What base pads are you running and do they have a gap with the base pad and 17 round mags? Does the gap really matter?
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17 hours ago, TheGoatMumbler said:
The CZ75 trigger group is not as easy to clean as say a Sig P320 where the entire thing comes out in one piece. But with having to shoot whatever ammo you can find these days my CZ just gets nasty from the powder in box ammo.
A friend of mine that has been shooting CZ's in competition for years gave me a tip from a guy that is a well known trigger builder in the benchrest community. He takes the grips off his Shadow, dry brushes and wipes off all the surface crap, then drenches the inside of the frame, trigger group, etc with lighter fluid and just lets all the nasty stuff run out the bottom. Wipes it down, let it dry a bit or blow it out with compressed air and repeat. When it runs clean you're done. Wipe it, let it air dry, lube as you normally would then reassemble. Since the lighter fluid is petroleum based it leaves a minuscule amount of lube in all the nooks & crannies. I've done this a few times and my CZ is as smooth as it ever was. I ran out of lighter fluid once and used Gun Scrubber and it wasn't nearly as smooth.
This works for me but what do you think of this process? Can you sub the lighter fluid for odorless mineral spirits?
I prefer brake cleaner, the pressurized can helps blast dirt out better and cuts through oil and grease better. But if you want to use a lighter fluid replacement you want to use Naptha, it is the same stuff. Different than mineral spirits.
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Please forgive the simple question, but I haven’t really found a straight forward answer yet. I am new to CZ’s, just picked up an SP01 for Production and IDPA SSP. I need to pick up some extra mags and want to add base pads. So far I am looking at Shock Bottle, Springer, and ArmoryCraft for the base pads. The biggest thing I have seen is that most pads leave more of a gap with the 17 rd mags than with the 16rd. Springer seems to be the exception.
I am looking mostly at Mec-Gar mags. Other than the obvious 17 is one more than 16 (cue Spinal Tap reference), is there any reason to go with one over the other?
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Fudd says "Not dry firing while driving will get ya killed on da streets". Perfect operating practices makes for perfect operating.
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Autocomp lives in the neighborhood of Accurate #5, which I've used under 115 and 105 grain Bayou Bullets. At 5.2grs. of AA#5 I get some cornmeal of unburnt powder left, but never clumps or hang fires. 5.7 should ignite just fine with maybe a little residue. Generally a primer either lights or it doesn't, I've never seem one go off but weakly. If it is with both primers I'm wondering if there is some type of contamination with the powder or cases.
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Bam Bam, I sent you a message.
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I know it's been said before, but Area 8 is strong in revolver. This weekend 9 out of 165 shooters at Ontelaunee were revolver. About another 10 were shooting the Pa. Steel League, but are usual ICORE participants, with a few of them shooting USPSA from time to time. There are at least 8 more revolver shooters I can think of that did not attend either match.
My favorite parts of the matches is the amount of guys that come up and ask questions because they keep thinking about trying revolver. Most may never buy one, but it's still fun being the unique crowd that draws attention for how few of us there really are.
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I know several grand masters who use purple bullets. I think Mcfoto is right, it's not the gun. It's purple bullets that come with a instant grand master card. There is no way such lunacy as practice can be the difference.
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I am going to be putting my 929 on a diet and part of that is lightening the barrel. As a result the front ball detent will no longer have anything to seat into, so I am looking at adding a ball detent to the top of the yoke. With several options available I am not sure which is the preferred method. I can get a threaded post or a press in post from McMaster-Carr, the current one on the front looks like the press in style, or the Power Custom kit to drill a hole and stake in the ball. If going with the Power Custom kit, is the single ball enough or is it better to go with the older double ball installation?
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Place the cylinder in a large prescription pill bottle and fill with Hoppes #9 until covered. Let sit several hours, over night works great. Afterwards it is mostly just wipe off, cylinder face may still need a brass brush, but not much elbow grease. Bottle full of Hoppes can be capped and saved for next time.
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I run 145 grain Bayou Bullets. I've tried various weights and prefer the 145/147. My personal opinion is the 145 has a slower, pushing recoil that keeps the sights flatter. The 115 and 124 was a snappier and faster recoil that I felt moved the sights more, but brought them back faster as well. For me it was shoot a bunch of each and decide what I liked, in my case it was the slower but flatter movement.
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I run 145gr. Bayou Bullets round nose over 3.5 grains of W231. Stays clean and very soft shooting, gets about a 130pf but doesn't feel like it.
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Revolver Jockey, where are you looking to move to. In my area we get anywhere from 3 or 4 revolver shooters a month at USPSA up to 10 or 12, depending who shows and what they feel like shooting. East Coast Regional ICORE will see 30-40 shooters, a local monthly indoor ICORE match gets from 7 to 15 shooters at times. I am proud to say we have an extremely talented pool of revolver shooters in our area that are great to learn from and make a lot of auto shooters jealous. Talking to others from outside my area, some places are lucky to see 2 or 3 revolvers a month.
I agree with Seanc, a lot are intimidated by revolvers with the extra reloads, more challenging stages planning, and heavier trigger pull. It amazes me though, the amount of people that I talk to that say they want to try a revolver one day. I know most won't but I think people see how much fun it can be after watching guys like Alec and MWP.
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I have seen some of the pictures of those and is one I am considering. One of the things I would like to do is either have machined in or be able to screw on something like Cheely's 2 port compensator. I know some feel it doesn't make a difference on minor loads, I have one of those on my 1911 for steel challenge and with the right load makes a noticeable difference in the amount the dot moves. This will be for steel challenge and ICORE, so I will still be running at least a 125 power factor.
If you have any ideas Poggie, I would be glad to discuss them.
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Does anyone have experience with aluminum revolver barrels, similar to what Bruce Warren does. I am looking to have a barrel made for my open 929 and like the idea of the light weight aluminum. Does anyone make an already lined barrel blank, or is it pretty much using aluminum round stock and buying a 9mm liner?
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I just installed LPA sights on my 4" 625 and 6" 929. The 929 I went with a .245" tall front sight and have a ton of adjustment. The 625 has a .300" tall front sight and I am close to bottoming out the rear sight, but have a little room left. I am not sure how tall the base for the front sight is on a 629, I know the 929's is a little taller. Regardless, the LPA has a deeper notch that worked with the dot on an XS tritium front sight, a Hi-Viz fiber optic (which is rather large) and is awesome with the Dawson Precision fiber optic.
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I'll try switching to the bag. Just curious why the change in results from last year when I used the same steps and the same box.
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I loaded about 2500 .223 last year without a hickup using the Dillon case lube. Processing brass lately I've run into my 3rd stuck case in less than 700 pieces of brass. First two were L.C. and the latest was PMC. I am using an RCBS FL sizing die, same one as last year and cleaned after first stuck case. I am not sure where the problem is coming from. I lay the brass in a pizza box, spray with a few spritzes of lube, shuffle up to turn over and distrubute lube and spray again to make sure completely coated. After a couple minutes I start resizing. Is there anything I should change?
While it is not causing the sticking, is there anything that will help lubing the inside of the necks to make resizing easier?
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I was shooting an IDPA match this weekend and had a stage where the mags cost me some valuable time and am wondering if I should look into a replacement, and which ones. I ran to slide lock, inserted the mag and as it seated I watched a round get ejected from the magazine through the open chamber, forcing me into a second reload. The second reload also had the same thing happen. This was the only stage of the day it happened, but is not the first time it's happened, just the first time in a major match. The other problem I have is sometimes when I drop a magazine rounds will come out when it hits the ground. No other hi-cap mags do this, on the Para mags.
Should I replace these, or will a new spring maybe cure the problem? If I get new mags I see the ACT magazines are recommended. If I looking into STI mags I want to be able to run both the Para and the STI, I don't want to be limited to one or the other, can that be accomplished?
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I thought overall it was a great match. Well run and the toughest stages in the 5 years I've been going, a lot of risk vs reward stages. I shot it slower than I would in the past trying to make sure I made good hits and was happy with my performance. The stages I got sloppy showed in the score.
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I run an SX2 that I love. I just handled the SX4 at the Great American Outdoor Show and was impressed. It needs a magazine extension and the port opened, but was a nice handling and fast swinging shotgun. If I was shopping, it would be high on my list. The SX2 is soft shooting and has been extremely reliable.
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Shooting Saturday in CDP.
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Between PASA and Mothers Day is a no go for me. I would like to see it move around a little and a better date.
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Breakthrough Clean High Purity or HP Pro oil. Rated well into the negative temperatures and has run well for me from 100 degrees down into the mid-twenties. Below that I am I staying inside anyway.
Mag capacity and base pad questions.
in CZ
Posted
I'll be honest and admit that I want a little bit of cool factor with the color. Beyond that, at least with prior pistols, that added weight (though minimal) did seem to help with magazines dropping free better. It wasn't a common problem but a hung up reload at the wrong time is still lost time. I also have a semi-familiar feel with the basepads that are on other pistols, so I am looking to keep at least a smidgen of consistency and muscle memory.