gregdavidl
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Posts posted by gregdavidl
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It's really no big deal to change the primer size on a 1050. When you're changing calibers, for example .45 to .40, you already have to take the head off to swap the shell plate out. At that point it's no big deal to switch the primer feed. And it's a good time to clean the press.
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Try Kennedy, they have several different models and you can get a maple butcher block top. The drawers are very sturdy and smooth, even when loaded down.
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1 1050 with quick conversion kits.
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A 10 or 15 watt lightbulb will do the same thing as goldenrod. I had a gunsafe in my garage (in Houston, TX) with a 15 watt lightbulb in it and I never had trouble with rust. It was always explained to me to avoid big changes in temperature.
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He's retired and still living around the Pasadena area. I saw him last weekend at the Pasadena gun show and he had a table there.
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I'd like to know what have you done to improve the trigger on this rifle.
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A shallow pan and a gallon of WD-40 also works well. Let the parts soak and then scrub with a brush. After you're done, pour the WD-40 back in the container and the solids will settle out before the next use.
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A beam scale is fine. I've reloaded for years and never felt the need for a digital scale.
I have an expensive ($200+) digital caliper that I bought for a job I used to have, but I much prefer my dial caliper for reloading. No batteries being a big plus to me.
For pistol ammo, once you get things adjusted and set, there's just not a whole lot of measuring after that. Other than the occasional check of the powder measure.
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I prefer to be standing while loading on my 1050, especially if loading a lot of ammo. It's easier on your back and you get better leverage.
And if you need to load .223, just get an extra toolhead, powder measure, etc. for the 1050, it'll make the conversion a LOT easier/faster.
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"Precision Shooting" magazine is a good source for this type of information.
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I used to hang out with a gunsmith/commercial reloader who had 3 Camdex machines. They have an electric primer system that's similar to Dillon's primer tube filler. You just dump the primers in and they get flipped and fed. Has anyone ever modified their 1050 to use one of these?
But having detonated a full tube of primers on my 1050, I'm not sure I want anything to do with a high capacity primer system.
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Rob also had a drill when I took a class from him (a long time ago) where he had you hold and aim the gun with your trigger finger outside of the trigger gaurd. He would reach in and "slap" the trigger and you'd shoot a group. Seems like we did this with the target at 25 yards and the groups were amazingly good. It was a way to demonstrate that as long as the sights were aligned when the gun went off, you did not have to have to press the trigger.
I also remember from the class (and the topic video also shows this), that Rob has this uncanny sense of time. He'd say "I'll demonstrate X and do it in Y.Y seconds" and always be right on the beep when he finished. And could speed up and slow down at will.
I got home after the class and re-read Brian's book and the book made a lot more sense.
A year or so later I took a class from Jerry Barnhart and one of the things he emphasized was that you had to know how fast you could make different shots and still get your hits. For example if faced with a mover or swinger at a match, if you time it with a stop watch you'll often find that it's within your capabilities or at least plan for it within your comfort zone.
I got home after that class and again re-read Brian's book and the book made even more sense.
Bottomline, you have to prepare and try different things and eventually you'll come up with a practice regimen that works for you and the way you shoot.
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Watch a video of Leatham, he rotates the gun in his hand to reach the mag release. He has very short stubby fingers and makes it work. When I took a class from him in '91, it took me a few minutes to pick up on what he was doing.
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Those sort of bottles are quite common in Mexico. My brother-in-law (who lives in Guadalajara) has given me several different ones for my collection. You can also get some really nice ceramic bottles (and spend quite a bit of money). Tequila is almost like a religon in the Mexican state of Jalisco.
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The "Precision Shooting" magazine usually has coverage of major F-Class events. Plus it's a pretty interesting magazine that has a wide variety of articles about anything related to rifle shooting.
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RL1050 (Original Nickel Plated Model)
Casefeeder: Yes
Bullet feeder: No
Experience: 22 years
Average Rounds/Hour, Pistol: 1,200
Average Rounds/Hour, Rifle: only loaded rifle once (.223), swore never again on a 1050
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I have 3 built on frame and slide kits from Les. 2 in .45ACP with consecutive serial numbers - LB2xx and one in .38 Super with a serial number that is only 6 digits off from the .45's. All 3 are virtually identical. The .45's were main and back-up and the Super was because I wanted a 5" Super.
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I started in '82 with a Rockchucker, then a C&H Autochamp (a major PITA), borrowed a Star for a year, bought a 550 and then finally a 1050 (in 1989).
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Memories of my first Nationals, 1986 in Dallas, include Joanne. It seems that year that the uniform of choice for most of the female shooters (including Joanne) was a leotard type top and shorts. When I shot the standards, Joanne was to my right and we had a lot of attention from the ROs.
I also remember John Shaw driving up and parking his Porsche next to the range for the man-on-man shoot off. When he strapped his belt on over his gym shorts, the discussion amoung the crowd was why didn't he get DQ'd for not having belt loops.
The 1986 Nationals was the year I met Tommy Weston. He was an interesting character.
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I'll second what Flexmoney says. My wife is from Guadalajara and we travel to Mexico frequently. The and only time I got sick was when we ate breakfast at an American chain restuarant at the Guadalajara airport on our way home.
When we are down there we're WAY off the normal tourist areas and I have eaten at some "interesting" places. The locals are very careful about where they eat and I just follow their lead.
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I took a 6 year break and before I started to shoot again, I made sure that my expectations clear in my mind.
I did not have a (convienent) place to go for live fire practice and only limited time for dry fire practice.
What I discovered was that I was really relaxed at the matches because I had no expectations. I had shot extensively for many years and "age and treachery" was my friend. It was an eye opening experience that made me realize how important the mental game was and how it's possible to do well without a lot of practice (assuming you had a good skill set prior to taking a break). By the second local match, I was shooting A class qualifiers again.
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I blew mine up once (owned since 1989). I had a crushed primer in the primer slide and decided to flick it out with a dental pick (as I had done before) instead of taking the press apart. Apparently the primer was hyper sensitive at that point and it set off an almost full tube of primers. It blew the rod into the ceiling and my upper chest looked like I had been hit with a shotgun and I had to use tweezers to dig all of the pieces out. I keep the split and mangled tube on my bench to remind myself and others to wear safety glasses at all times. As I recall, Dillion replaced the outer blast guard tube for free, but I had to pay for everything else.
After many years and several hundred thousand rounds, I've always been amazed at how tough primers are. If you reload long enough, you'll get primers seated sideways, crushed in various ways and they don't go off.
Reloading has risks no matter what model or brand of machine you use, the important thing is to follow safe practices.
As other posters have noted, seating the primer on the down stroke and the primer pocket swage are reason enough to buy a 1050. Dillion did not have the 650 when I bought my 1050, but the two main reasons I replaced my 550 with the 1050 were the volume of ammo I was loading at the time and the primer seating. The primer pocket swage was just an added bonus (I prefer TZZ brass for my .45 ACP).
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I have never measured how much bell I put on the case, I always just adjusted by eyeballing it and by ease of setting the bullet on top before the seating station. Less bell is better, but too little makes it harder to rapidly/accurately set the bullet on top. I do set the crimp by measurement, but with mixed brass it will vary.
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I notice this more when loading new brass and I think it's produced at the crimp station (I load on a 1050). It's almost like the crimp die will slightly radius the outer edge of the case mouth on the first loading (new brass has very square edges). When loading used brass I rarely see shavings.
1050 OAL strangeness
in Dillon Precision Reloading Equipment
Posted
I set up each station individually and have learned over the years to set OAL a little short. With a full shellplate, OAL always seems to be longer than what I set it at with just the one. Same for setting the swage on the powder die, I set it a little heavy with the single and it always seems to be about right with a full shell plate.
I keep waiting for someone to figure out what a full revolution of the setting equals as far as a change in OAL. 1/8 turn equals .xxx, etc.