Taildraggerdave
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Posts posted by Taildraggerdave
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Here is a link to a related discussion on a CZ forum.
http://www.czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=34225.0
Has a couple nice pictures relating to chamber size, etc.
Take care,
Dave
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The Missouri's are fat in the ogive. Depends on your chamber regarding how short you need to go.
I'd partially size a case and push a Missouri in then hand chamber in your barrel. Take another .005 or .010
off of that and there is your new OAL.
I've shot thousands of these and they have always worked well.
Take care,
Dave
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Very nice work. Definitely motivational.
Take care,
Dave
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I got my method over on GT. Lots of guys are running the Gen 4 ejectors and the trigger housings they come with are not compatible with Gen 3
frames so the ejector has to come out of the housing anyway...
But I agree, I try to store them as complete units.
Take care,
Dave
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The quickest and easiest way to change the ejector is to remove the rearmost pin in the frame. The one that hold the trigger housing in.
Just lift up on the trigger housing a half inch or so and push the ejector right out of the front of the housing using a 1/16" punch. It pushes out from back to front. Then simply push the new ejector back in the housing, lower the housing back in the frame, and reinsert the pin. Done.
Otherwise, you have to disassemble the most of the receiver to get the trigger housing out.
Yeah, disassembling the frame takes a whole 15 seconds. Just remove the whole trigger housing assembly and swap out ejectors. Do it right.
By right, you mean your way....
Dave
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so with the 9 frame it wont eject the brass properly?
And I'd be a little concerned because you've got the ejector closer to the primer than you need to, when unloading/showing clear.....
Changing the trigger housing to get the correct ejector in there takes 2 minutes, once you do it a few times....
This is a very good point!
The quickest and easiest way to change the ejector is to remove the rearmost pin in the frame. The one that hold the trigger housing in.
Just lift up on the trigger housing a half inch or so and push the ejector right out of the front of the housing using a 1/16" punch. It pushes out from back to front. Then simply push the new ejector back in the housing, lower the housing back in the frame, and reinsert the pin. Done.
Otherwise, you have to disassemble the most of the receiver to get the trigger housing out.
Take care,
Dave
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You may get some failures to feed with the 9 ejector. Maybe, maybe not.
Lock the slide back and insert a partially loaded mag. The top round will sit slightly crooked because it is getting moved by
the ejector. Put a 40 ejector in its place and the top cartridge will sit straight.
I've used a 9 ejector for a while but went back to the 40.
Take care,
Dave
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WSF meters very well through a 550B and there are plenty of published loads for this powder in .40
You can load very mild with it as well as take it to the "major power factor levels"
It is also clean burning and not very smoky when used with lead.
I mention this since you already have this powder.
Take care,
Dave
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Any bullet weight will be fine. 180's are very popular but will cost a little more because they weigh more.
It's really all about the powder you choose. WSF, Titegroup, Clays are all fine. Charge to the lower end of
scale and work your way up. A chronograph, even a cheap one, should be considered mandatory.
Attached is a photo of glock barrels. I think I actually got it from these forums so thank you to whoever published it first.
The barrel on the left has the least amount of support. The barrel in the middle is current Glock and the barrel on the right
is aftermarket with nearly the same case support.
Take care,
Dave
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Hello.
If your G23 is new enough, it will have a fully supported chamber.
I've done a lot of chrono work throughout my load development and the one thing that surprized me was how hot factory .40
can be loaded, and they don't (usually) result in a kaboom....
Example:
Federal Champion FMJ 180gr is 1019fps with a power factor of 183 out of my G35
Ranger T RA40T 180gr is 1051fps and 189 power factor out of same gun.
Take care, be safe, and enjoy reloading.
Dave
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This is the biggest problem. Some can get the 550 case feeder to work but many others can't and just give up on it.
The 650 case feeder works like a dream once you get it dialed in.
I'm glad to hear that. I'm really close to pulling the trigger on a 650.
Same issues with 45 ACP. 1 out 10 case jumps back after sizing. Its not a brand of brass, and its random on shell plate location.
550B case feeder, when it dialed in it works 90% of the time, when it hiccups it becomes very annoying.
The case feeder does not increase speed in my use. I am slower now. How ever it is the benefit of not grabbing a case every time that keeps me tinkering with it.
The biggest problem is when you switch to a non case feed configuration, ie, 5.56. all of that dialing in is lost.
I think I am going to buy another 550 just for rifle so I do not have to dial in the case feeder any more.
I'm glad it is not just me. The desire to start loading .223/5.56 is what has pushed me to look at a 650 or pulling the case feeder off the 550.
I do wonder how much this has to do with the fact that the 550 uses the same shell plate for 9mm and 40. I didn't have nearly as much of a problem with the 9mm as I do with .40. You definitely have to loosen the plate to get 40 to slide under it and it makes it a little floppy. I wonder if they made dedicated .40 shell plate that is sized correctly. I don't think the 650 and 1050 share the same plate between 9mm/.40.
I've loaded thousands of 9 and 45 and the case feeder has been flawless. Something I found early on was the same as in bold above. The cases pushing back out of the shell plate as the ram retracts. They don't line up with the die and everything gets bound up, or you damage a case mouth.
What I did was refer to the special setup instructions at the end of the case feeder manual and set mine up that way. I think the first part of the manual
had you setting the case feeder up incorrectly. At least to the point where it pushes the cases too far inward....
I set the ram up so that the case stops just as it bottoms in the shell plate and it runs 100%.
That and a floppy shell plate for my 40......
Hope that helps.
Dave
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4.7 WSF gets me 169PF in a G35. Stock barrel and Bayou Bullet 180gr at 1.130"oal
Hope this helps. Start low and work your way up.
Take care,
Dave
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I had some problems with my 550 and casefeeder when loading .40 myself...
I wound up loosening the center bolt on the star 1/2 turn from tight. I don't have to run
it that loose on any other caliber. But it works well for .40
See if that helps.
Take care,
Dave
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I meant ejector in the above post......
Take care,
Dave
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Keep in mind that you can't shoot a G34 slide on top of a G35 frame in Production.
Heh, yeah. Right...
The frames are identical except for the extractor, right? How would anyone know if you put an actual G34 slide on top of a G35?
I think what is not allowed in Production is a conversion barrel in a G35 to make it shoot 9mm.
Take care,
Dave
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1.916"?
Is that some kind of program that reads off an image of the group?
It's called On Target.
They have a free and a pay version.
Works great.
Take care,
Dave
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MY 550B with case feeder runs 45ACP awesome!!
I've loaded thousands of rounds and never had a problem.
I agree about the case feeder being a little finicky to set up.
In my experience, I had no luck at all using Dillon's set up instructions in the manual.
However, they an excellent troubleshooting section in that manual and I believe one
should follow those instructions for setup.
If the cam pushes the case too far into the shell plate, the case will rebound a bit and
come out of the slot and not line up with the die anymore. Cycle the machine slowly and
the case should enter the shell plate completely then stop. Set your machine up like that
and it will rock.
I love my case feeder for 9, 40, 45.
Take care,
Dave
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Try a case feeder on your 550. Talk about an increase in production. Imagine your right hand only moving the handle up and down.
I grab a bullet between my thumb and forefinger, oriented correctly. I index the star with the palm of my hand and place the bullet
at the same time. Move handle and repeat.
I love my casefeeder. Makes it like a 650 but I like the option of managing the shell plate manually.
Take care,
Dave
My 100 round runs are below 5 minutes
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I've had bad tumbling issues with Clays and plated bullets. Hard cast - no issues. Soft plated bullets are the devil. 3.3 grns of Clays and a 180 hard cast is cheating.
Then 2.6gr Clays and Bayou 180gr must be criminal....
Take care,
Dave
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Can anyone comment on why I might want c-rums to cut a slot in the lifter vs no slot?
Bump. Need this info as well.
The slot lightens the lifter a bit but more importantly, it allows you to push a shell back in the mag tube should you have a runaway mag dump.
One shell goes between the bolt and the lifter and another is part way out of the mag tube and stuck above the lifter.
The slot allows you to push them back in the mag tube with a screwdriver blade or something thin.
Take care,
Dave
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Your G22 rtf2 probably has the newest supported chamber. Pull the barrel and drop a cartridge in it.
Does the feed ramp show an 1/8" of case wall or does it go to the extractor groove?
The newer Glock .40's all have fully supported chambers.
This is not my photo so I must give credit to someone but don't remember where I found it....
The barrel on the left is an early Glock barrel. The one in the middle is the latest .40 cal Glock barrel and the barrel on the
right is aftermarket.
Take care,
Dave
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2.5 gr of Clays with a 180 lead bullet works for me.
This has worked for me also. Decent accuracy and nice clean holes with Bayou 180gr.
Take care,
Dave
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I run a Glockworx full length tungsten rod and a 13# spring in my 34. the weight doesnt make as big of a difference as I would like, but you can tell its there. The glocktriggers.com kit I dropped in is where the meat leaves the bone!
So, honestly, do you think the tungsten is worth the $55 dollars or so they want for it or would you have been just as happy with a stainless guide rod instead.
I ask because I already have the stainless guide rod. Don't know if it's worth it to spend a bunch more $$ for little return.
Take care,
Dave
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I've got two rounds of reloads on some Winchester White Box for a total of 3 firings so far.
Also have a bunch of range pickup brass that have a couple rounds through them from me. No telling how many they had before me.
Take care,
Dave
A DIY Chrony Light setup
in Chronograph Equipment & Techniques
Posted
Great idea. Will do soon.
Take care,
Dave