PerfectDouble

I'm sure the topic title is rather confusing. Sorry about that. I'm a right handed shooter ordering/building a rifle for open division, and I wanted to know if ambi controls (i.e. safety selector, mag release, bolt catch release) are useful or not. (E.g. do you ever find yourself in situations in which you are shooting weak hand and need to operate any of these controls?) Or is it just added complexity (one more thing to break during a match)? Specifically, I am considering using the Battle Arms Development Ambi-Safety Selector [bAD-ASS], Norgon Ambi-Mag Catch, and MagPul Battery Assist Device [bAD]. Thanks.

Thanks. Yeah, I'm in the South too and heat's an issue here as well. I've heard really good things about Sabre Defense (both here and elsewhere). I'm honestly surprised by the support for the heat sink. Jim thought that it was unnecessary weight, but suggested I ask shooters on this forum for their opinions. I find it really ironic that members of his own shooting team have a completely different opinion! Shooting in an environment where heat is such an issue, I think I'll go with one. As I said before, I can always remove it later...

Wow. Thanks for all the great info. I have been talking to Jim at Firebird over the past couple of weeks (super nice guy; very knowledgeable and patient and understanding; really, a great person), and I will be getting a Firebird upper with an installed Firebird carbon fiber handguard (extended -- I'm thinking 15.5" [like the new JP's] unless convinced otherwise). I've also asked Jim if he would install the barrel for whatever fee he charges and he graciously said that he would. (Thank goodness! I was afraid I would mess things up if I tried to do it myself! One of my original goals was to entirely build this rifle myself, but I'm using such expensive and top of the line parts, I don't want to mess it up.) I was thinking of going with the aluminum gas block to shave off a couple of ounces and because Firebird makes one (I figure it can't be bad if Jim makes one.), but I will go with a JP steel low profile one now. (I was wondering about that. I was thinking that aluminum and steel have different thermal expansion rates and that the steel would probably be better [or more consistent] with the barrel. Is that why you say to go with steel and not aluminum?) I haven't heard anything about JP barrels being finicky with ammo. I don't reload .223 (yet), but I'm sure I will someday. Right now, I use Hornady Match, .223 Rem, 75 gr, BTHP for any distance/accuracy with a 1:7 twist Wilson barrel. Will that be an issue with a JP barrel? Which JP muzzle device are you referring to? The Recoil Eliminator ("tank brake") or Large Profile Tactical Compensator? (I assume you were referring to the Recoil Eliminator, but I just want to be sure.) Now I'm leaning towards getting the heat sink... Thanks for your help.

Thanks. I've heard good things about White Oak and Rainier Arms. (In fact, I called Rainier Arms with some questions about Uppers and Lowers, and they were very nice and helpful.) I've heard the same thing about comps from several different sources, which is why it is not as big a concern as some of the other parts or manufacturers over which I've been obsessing...

I decided to go with the JP Large Profile Tactical Comp, which is only legal for Open division, over the JP Recoil Eliminator for several reasons: 1) the recoil reduction of both are almost identical (according to several people I asked at JP [including JP himself]) 2) the Tactical Comp has ports on the top to reduce muzzle climb, unlike the Recoil Eliminator (same sources) 3) it is possible that the Recoil Eliminator could get momentarily caught or tied up in certain circumstances such as shooting with the barrel through a port, etc. 4) aesthetics -- I like the look of the Tactical Compensator better. Yes, it is certainly cheaper to buy an assembled upper or complete rifle, but that's not the point or motivation of this build. I really wanted to build/design my own ideal rifle. Thanks for your help.

Yes. That's true. I was originally going that route (and I may still by using a Firebird gas block on a JP kit). However, when it came to the barrel, I realized that I needed to get something specifically made/designed for multi-gun (e.g. many of the super accurate barrels are more suited for bench rest or sniping than run 'n gun due to weight/contour), and when it came to the comp, it seemed to come down to three choices: Benny Hill Rolling Thunder, JP Tactical, or Lund/SJC Titan (the consensus seemed to be just pick one of the three; they're all great). Therefore, I decided to get a barrel kit from one of the top AR makers for multi-gun: Firebird or JP -- they each use of the the top compensators, and they each use one of the top barrels. Basically, I don't have a preference for any one over the other (either barrel or compensator). I considered that, but I really wanted to have my own, ideal, perfect for me, completely customized rifle. (I know that sounds contrary to what I wrote above with regards to the barrel and comp. Oh well...)

Thank you for the reply. I just called JP and asked if the barrel were turned down to add the heat sink, and they said that it wasn't. Obviously, that's on their barrel only. If one were to use another barrel, it might have to be re-contoured for the heat sink. I also asked what the added weight of the heat sink would be. For the short, .650" inside diameter (for the .223 barrels) heat sink, it is 6 oz, and for the long version, it is 8 oz. I'm still on the fence regarding the heat sink. It may improve the performance slightly on long "hose 'em" stages, but I don't know if that's worth the extra half pound. (I am intentionally trying to reduce the weight as much as possible.) I can always add it later if I want.

I am building an AR for the first time (for an Open rifle), and I would like to get some advice or opinions on the barrel kit. I plan on getting a stainless steel, medium contour, 1:8 twist, 18" barrel, with a .223 Wylde chamber and a rifle length gas system (with an adjustable low profile gas block), and (of course) a muzzle brake/compensator. I think I have narrowed it down to either the Firebird Precision or JP Enterprises barrel kit. The Firebird kit uses a Lothar-Walther barrel, a Firebird aluminum adjustable low profile gas block, and a Rolling Thunder Comp. The JP kit I am considering uses a JP barrel (from a Wilson blank, I believe), a JP steel adjustable low profile gas block (I may switch this out for the Firebird aluminum gas block), and a JP Large-Profile Tactical Compensator. I know that I can't go wrong with either setup, but I wanted to know if anyone had any opinions or reasons to go with one over the other. Related question: Any thoughts (or hopefully direct experience) on the JP heat sink? Does it offer any real/noticeable advantages or is it just an additional weight at the front of the rifle? Thanks for the feedback...

Thanks, everyone. I appreciate the help and info.

I just read another post on Firebird Saigas, and Jim said that you ordered one "with all the mods that exist.. and a few more". So have you gotten it yet? Can you post some pics and list the mods? Thanks.

Wow. Thanks for all the quick (and detailed) answers. R&R was on my short list. It's nice to get some confirmation for them. I like the fact that they are setup to match the operation of an AR as much as possible -- less motor skills that need to be perfected. I didn't even know that Firebird did Saiga conversions. I'm still waiting on their website to get up and running. In the meantime, could anyone point me to a link that has a description of the Firebird modifications (with pictures hopefully)? Thanks for your help.

I would like to use a Saiga in the Open division. I have one that is stock that I would like to have modified for competition. Who do the top 3 gunners (who use Saigas, of course) use to perform their conversions/modifications. Thank you.

Thanks for the response. Everything you've said validates my own conclusions. Unless there's some compelling arguments to the contrary, I'm pretty sure I will be going with the 5" 625 with all the custom work -- action job, hammer spur bobbing, chamfering, etc., etc. I am intrigued by the 610 because I love the 10mm round. (My G20 is one of my favorite pistols.) However, I also have the same thoughts on the available barrel lengths for that model -- 4" is too short, 6.5" too long with the full lug. I definitely plan on using a CR Speed. Thanks for the moonclip holder references. (I haven't yet researched them. You've given me a good start.) Thanks again, and any other opinions, views, and experience posted by you or any other members will be greatly appreciated.

Hi, I'm a newbie. This is my first post so please forgive any faux pas. I compete in the IPSC Production Division, and I would like to also compete in the Revolver Standard Division. Which revolver should I use? Or maybe I should ask which revolver do the top IPSC Revolver Standard Division competitors use? Generally speaking, which barrel length is considered optimal (4", 5", or 6")? (From my experience, the longer barrel length gives more sight radius and less muzzle flip but has more target to target transition time so maybe the 5" would be the best compromise?) The next question is which caliber (.357/.38, 10mm/.40, .45ACP)? (The general consensus seems to be .45ACP, but a lot of people seem to really like the reloading capabilities of the 10mm.) This revolver is going to be dedicated to this role so I'm not concerned with versatility. I will also have custom work done for this role -- trigger work, etc. Thanks in advance for all your help and advice.