Solvability
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Posts posted by Solvability
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I enjoy practicing with a revolver because it requires skill and concentration to be accurate shooting double action and I hope that translates to trigger discipline with my Limited gun, but I cannot see shooting it in USPSA/Speed Steel etc. I cannot really see a good case for revolver for defensive use. The real practical use for a revolver is handgun hunting and for me that is just Boar with a .44 Mag. The revolver is a specialty tool these days and just not competitive in action pistol.
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Not reliably and certainly not usefully.
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Let the market decide - that is the true value.
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My wife and I went out and viewed the ship in Decatur and talked to the guys - great experience.
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I started reloading for competition pistol in 2001 - rifle since 1974. I used a Lee progressive for years for 9mm until I literally wore it out - powder drops not as consistent as Dillon and a general fiddle factor to keeping it working but I produced good rounds. So what I say is the Dillon was worth it and you likely caused your overpressure event by double charging the case - it sure looks like an over pressure round to me. I hope Sig gives you a fair repair price on that pistol - one of the good things I have seen with Glock is the cheap or free repair regardless of cause and all I have seen were negligent loads.
Good luck.
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On 4/30/2020 at 6:15 PM, David.Hylton said:
I met my wife at a match........
You guys need matching outfits!
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Certainly works fine with gen 3 and below - it gets more problematic with gen 4 and 5 on earlier generations but I do not know the specifics. Yes change the ejector - that is the only difference in the frame.
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Pistol yes, for high accuracy rifle no.
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My lead hit 18 and has gradually dropped in 6 years or so to 5.1 for the last 3 years - no longer shoot uncoated lead or at indoor ranges. I don't know why mine is sticking at 5.1 - not a worrisome level but I have done all I know to do. I have read and believe that some folks are metabolically more apt to take up lead than others.
Butter, I doubt much lead gets past the poly coated - I am shooting a mixture of poly and plated.
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FYI mine is down to 5.1 and has been for 2 years - that is still over the 5.0 recommendation but I am sticking with current abatement practices. Poly or plated/jacketed bullets - outdoor wet tumbling and no indoor shooting.
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Your sizer die is not screwed down tight or it is not a 9mm die.
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I started in Limited with a Glock 21 and once I figured how much I liked it I got a Glock 35 and never looked back - the capacity is the real issue here .
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I speculate the new bullets are harder and are not obturating on firing and thus not getting stabilized. You could try a faster powder to see if it works but do not go overpressure as 40 is a bit tricky in hoop strength.
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No doubt, if you like the 40 it is a great time to buy a used gun. Don't overlook the .357 Sig it is an excellent caliber and shoots flat at distance. All of the popular models of 40 and .357Sig have conversion barrels to let you run 9mm for practice or competition. I plan to stockpile brass when I find it cheap - keep it dry and it won't go bad.
I wonder how long it will be before we get 38 Super and SC allowed major in Limited.
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I got Remington/UMC ammo in bulk cheaply lately and it works just fine - that said any cheap factory name brand should be good to go. I would not use the steel cased Eastern Block stuff.
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Bullseye is a good choice but I really liked Titegroup (heresy I know since it is hot and smoky but was quite accurate and light recoil)
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The one thing I have found with concave bullets is if you have a worn barrel it may be more accurate for a while until the wear gets too extreme, but it has a use for that. I shoot some older milsurps that have worn or oversize barrels and sometimes frosted barrels - it is something to try if you want to get the best out of a given gun. It is more useful with lead bullets than jacketed - use faster powders to get a fast pressure rise.
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I noticed classifiers are entered as pending these days until some apparently random time and then parsed.
What is the schedule for classifiers to be included or not?
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You will run into RO's that will let you pop a squib and not warn you resulting in a KB - this is offensive to me.
You will run into an RO that will think they are helping you long term by letting you have a disaster.
Read the rules and learn them - own the mistakes and move forward. You will develop a sense of squads that are more or less compatible - some squads are better for new shooters and will help you move forward - avoid the arrogant.
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SIG SRT kit
in Sig
If you have a P series the $40.00 short reset trigger kit is good stuff - took 10 minutes or less and makes a world of difference in my 226
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Just curious but what part needs welding?
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did it hit bone?
Heal fast!
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shove a 40 sw brush in the chamber and pull it out
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2 hours ago, TRPOperator said:
I believe Solvability is right. The stroke is the same. but running a G19 will be lighter as its shorter than a G17. So then with a lightened slide in a G19 that should give you a faster cycle time in theory.
2 hours ago, TRPOperator said:I believe Solvability is right. The stroke is the same. but running a G19 will be lighter as its shorter than a G17. So then with a lightened slide in a G19 that should give you a faster cycle time in theory.
I agree, the shorter lighter slide is valid.
What would it take for you to shoot revolver?
in USPSA/IPSC Shooting
Posted
You are right on this and I do train new shooters on gun safety with a revolver first - easy to tell if loaded/unloaded. Good points.