sam sanfilippo

Are any of you familiar with the LEM "light" trigger for the P30L? If so, how light is it? I injured the trigger finger of my right hand and can no longer use a gun with a heavy trigger. Four pounds is about max for me.

What is the purpose of the O ring that is found on certain models of H&K pistols?

I rented H&K USP 9mm pistols at two different gun shops. One pistol shot beautifully. I had no trouble at all keepimg all of my shots in the black on a bullseye target at 25 yards (a 5" group shot offhand). The other pistol shot a group more than twice as large. I rented both guns more than once and the results were consistenly good with one gun and consistently bad with the other. Have any of you experienced that much variation between two different examples of the same gun?

The Oakland CA police dept. tried to adopt the Gen 4 Glock 22, but they had so many feeding problems they ended up sending all of the guns back to Glock. Was their entire dept. limp wristing?

I have been shooting a Springfield XD Tactical in 9mm with a competition action job from the Springfield Custom Shop. They made the trigger lighter, but there is still a lot of forward movement in the trigger before the sear finally resets. If I try to hurry, it is possible to short stroke it. This happens once or twice every hundred rounds. Is there another Production Division gun I could be using that resets faster? Please don't recommend Glock. I have had feeding problems with them.

Has anyone noticed that the older 226 and 220 triggers seem to be smoother than those on current production guns? Did they change something?

There are at least three Beretta 92s: the American made 92FS, the Italian made 92FS and the M9. Which is better and what are the differences, if any?

I tried loading some Missouri Bullets 9mm 147 gr. lead flat points in my XD 9mm Tactical. I loaded them with 3.8 gr. of Bullseye and an OAL of 1.1". They fead reliably and did not appear to be leading the barrel, but at 25 yards some of them were keyholing. What am I doing wrong?

Of the Production Division guns that you have tried, which was the most accurate out of the box?

You can't buy a new STI Spartan here or a new high capacity magazine, but if you already own either the Spartan or the high cap magazines, they are legal.

I'm happy with a 2" group at 25 yards.

Unfortunately, I live in California where the STI Spartan is illegal. I'm looking for a Production class gun, but I would also like to shoot Bullseye with it. I am not a competitive shooter so it does not have to be a 1911 or Beretta 92. I would prefer a 9mm.

What centerfire semi-autos for under $800 are the most accurate out of the box? I realize that there aren't a lot of target pistols in this price range, but some service grade semi-autos are more accurate than others. What are some of the better ones?

I have been shooting my first 1911. It's a Les Baer Premier II 5" in .45 ACP. I've put 14500 rounds of lead semi-wadcutter bullets through it without a single failure to feed and it is very accurate. I've noticed that the front end of the guide rod has been hitting the inside of the dust cover and has raised a burr there. Is this normal for 1911s with short guide rods? If not, what should I do to correct it?

A .45 1911.

When I use an IPSC grip (i.e. both thumbs pointed forward on the left side of the gun), as soon as the gun starts to recoil my left thumb slips off the frame and needs to be repositioned. My right hand is touching the checkered part of the gun and remains in place, but most of my left hand is just touching the outside of my right hand. If I'm shooting outside and my hands start to sweat, that makes it worse. But even if I'm indoors, there's nothing to hold onto with my left thumb. It's just touching the left side of the frame. What am I doing wrong?

No. I crimp with one die and seat with another.

I have been getting severe leading on the chamber walls of my 1911. There is no leading in the chamber throat or the bore. Apparently, the bullet nose is leaving a smear of lead as it chambers. My gun is a Les Baer Premier II 5" in .45 ACP with no after-market parts. My load is a Zero 185 gr. LSWC with 4.6 gr. of Bullseye with an OAL of 1.246. Should I be loading it shorter? This load feeds flawlessly. I have had no jams in 4000 rounds. Zero makes both a long-nosed and short-nosed version of this bullet. I've been using the long-nosed version. Should I be using the short-nose? I've been using Birchwood Casey lead remover cloths (chemically treated patches) to get the lead out. Is there an easier way to remove it? I use lead bullets because they are less expensive, accurate and available. Jacketed bullets are getting expensive and hard to find.

Has anyone ever put a J-Point sight on a Glock? I had trouble with the mount. The Glock rear sight dovetail is cut tight in the middle and loose at each end. The J-Point mount has a dovetail key that is made intentionally undersized and then tightened with a single set screw in the middle. No matter how much I tightened it, the mount still wriggled from side to side. To make matters worse, tightening the set screw also makes the sight base lift off the slide. If you press on it with your finger, it also wriggles vertically. I also tried a mount made by Aristocrat. This mount looks rock solid, but for some reason my groups got bigger when I was using it. I don't know why. The sight looks like it might be good. Is there a better mount for it?

Has anyone ever tried using lead semi-wadcutter bullets in a Glock 21 with an after-market barrel? Did you need to do anything special to make them feed reliably (for example, throat the barrel). What barrel and bullet were you using?

I use .45 Cal. lead SWC bullets in my 1911 because they are accurate and inexpensive. I would like to use the same bullets in a plastic, striker-fired gun, (possibly an XD or M&P) but I don't know if they will feed. Has anyone ever tried it? I realize that I can not use lead bullets in a gun with polygonal rifling. I haven't bought the gun yet, so I am not committed to any particular make and model.

I was taught that if you bend your knees, lean forward and hold the gun with a loose IPSC grip (both thumbs pointed forward), then the gun will come back down automatically after recoil. However, when I try it, the gun just pops up and stays up. What am I doing wrong? Leaning forward does limit how much the gun pops up, but the only thing I have tried that helps me get the gun back down faster is the old push-pull technique of the Weaver stance. It's my understanding that most of the top shooter's don't use that anymore. What are they doing that I'm not doing? Brian Enos describes how he cams his support side wrist down to create some muscle tension. If I'm doing that right, I haven't got it to work.

Do you have his email address?

I'm interested in bulls eye with hand loads.

Which 9mm Luger load gives the best accuracy in a Bar-Sto barrel? Which load gives the best accuracy in a Glock 34 or Springfield XD-9 Tactical factory barrel? I am willing to use minor loads if that helps.