ahescock

Thanks for all the help guys. I think I have worked out most of my problems. First, I used the cases from my own WWB ammo. I then bought a set of RCBS full length sizing dies to replace my problematic short base dies. I also set my chamfering/deburring tool a little deeper to make sure all the burs were out. I fired roughly 35 rounds today with no problems. I didn't check group size, but they all feed/fired/ejected without any problems. The full length dies were so much easier to use compared to the short base dies. It hardly felt like I was working the brass at all. I hope this doesn't change after I start trying my surplus cases, but that would probably be too easy. What an annoying process, but it was worth the effort knowing I won't have to wait around for back-ordered 223 ammo. -Adam

I didn't realize you could get a neck sizer only die...thus my question "how do you neck size on a progressive?"

How do you neck size in a progressive? Can you explain why you neck size after resizing?

I started reloading 40 S&W on a Lee Turret Press, but found it to be too slow. I bought a Dillon 550, which I hope to get 400-500 rounds an hour. I am thinking about getting the caliber conversion for 223, but wonder how the Dillon will speed it up? Considering the brass will be resized and then trimmed off the press, does charging and seating on a progressive press speed things up substantially more than the Lee Turret Press?

I have heard about the problems with One Shot, although they usually occur when the bottle is almost empty. My bottle is 99% full, but it could be part of the problem. I think I will buy a bottle of Dillon lube, to go along with my newly purchased Dillon 550 that I got on Ebay!!! With a new set of dies and the 550, I hope to iron out all my rifle reloading problems. Of course, that is not why I bought the Dillon. My Lee Turret was WAY TOO SLOW. I only got up to about 150-175 rounds of 40 S&W an hour. I can't wait to get this baby up and running! I hope to give a report within the next couple of weeks. Thanks for all the help. -Adam

I adjusted my RCBS small base die by raising my shellholder to the bottom of the die, then turning 1/2 turn clockwise. I think when I originally installed it I turned it 1/4 clockwise, but wanted to make sure it was low enough to size completely. After 3 cases, I got one stuck. I am using One Shot liberally, but the die was really working the brass. All three cases were really difficult to size towards the last 1/3 of the sizing. As you can imagine, I am very frustrated. I am thinking about getting full length dies so I don't get anymore cases stuck (this has happened before with my small base die). Any thoughts?

I have the ABC's of Reloading, but its not really a reloading manual. I will pick one up tomorrow at a gun show. In the meantime, I don't understand how to set my resizing die using a gauge. Any suggestions?

I have reloaded 40 S&W for awhile without too much trouble (besides high primers). I just started reloading 223 and cannot get more than half of my reloads to feed consistently. The problem is that my bolt will not close all the way even if the charging handle is pulled all the way back. When this happens, the rounds are often difficult to extract. I have fired roughly 1000 factory rounds (WWB) without any problems. I am using a Lee Turret Press with RCBS Full Base dies. The brass is mostly once fired milsurplus that I have recovered from my local range. I size to 1.75" using an RCBS trimmer with the multi tool that chamfers/deburrs. I do not sort the different head stamps, but I check the size on each case after trimming. Currently my OAL is 2.20", but I have tried 2.20"-2.24". I am using 23 grains of Hodgdon H335 with 55grain Hornady FMJ boat tails. I am not crimping, but have the Lee die if necessary. I use an RCBS hand priming tool with Winchester Small Rifle primers. Should I be tumbling the lube off (I haven't bothered to at this point)? Should I try crimping with my Lee die? Should I try using just my own once-fired WWB cases? What else could I try? Thanks, Adam

Thanks, the 10% discount worked.

Ready to place an order, but hoping to save with a promotional code for Brownells. Thanks, Adam

Went to the range today with 100 rounds of WWB, and no problems with my gun. I must have been doing something wrong with my reloads. Now I have to check into that....

Are you referring to a tap or single point tool when you said "thread cutting tool" ? The threads for choke tubes are very fine, some are as fine as 44TPI. Choke tooling is aligned by a guide in the tools themselves. Also, the barrels have some outside taper, making it extremely difficult to have the bore run true in a lathe. Sounds like cutting the threads straight is fairly complicated. Has anyone had success using a hand thread cutter/reamer? I can buy a new barrel for $80, so it may just be easier to go that route.

Does threading really require a gunsmith? Why couldn't I find a thread cutting tool and do it myself? Assuming my heavy barrel is "heavy" enough, are there any other issues I need to consider? Thanks, Adam

I'm going to the range this weekend to check if ammo was the issue. If that doesn't work, then I will attempt to disassemble and see if there is a striker problem (ie. obvious defects on the tip). After that I won't know what to look for, but hopefully my buddy will.

My trigger issue is probably unrelated to this problem, but I thought it was worth mentioning. After 5k rounds I noticed that the trigger pull felt longer/heavier once in awhile. I had never fully stripped my gun, so I thought this problem and the light strikes might be fixed by a thorough cleaning.