ManNamedJed
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Posts posted by ManNamedJed
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I'm considering getting a 6.5 Creedmoor rifle. I'd like to load for it with my 550. Dillon doesn't list a 6.5 Creedmoor caliber conversion. I understand its nearly the same as .260 Rem - any reason that caliber conversion wouldn't work?
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4.6g TG with MG 180gr JHP or Berry's FP at 1.13 works well in my TS.
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I load .40 on a 650 with Dillon dies. Thousands of rounds through it now, no problems with bulges. Very low percentage don't pass case gage. This is all with mostly glock brass left behind by cops at our ipsc range.
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I had to pay $47 to have my used 550 overhauled. Not that I'm complaining, its a great deal, but I'm curious why many seem to get it for free?
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For the average home loader non-carbide dies are fine. You will have to lube to size regardless of which one you get.
If you want to size your own brass you'll likely want a separate toolhead for that step.
Also you'll likely need:
Brass trimmer
Case Lube (dillon lube works great)
case duburring tool
Tool to remove primer crimp if you have crimped brass
The .223 reloading tutoral on ar15.com is excellent BTW.
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I imagine 124 or 147gr ammo would be most likely to comfortably make minor. Maybe pick up some of that before the big match?
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Several of mine kinda jam up when you hit 18rds. I think the follower can catch on the transition between the tube and the extension. Try pushing the round down a few times, or tapping it on a table while you load. Once you get 19 in the 20th goes in easy. Once you get it to load a few times, it gets easier.
Like someone else said, if the mag jams up halfway through while shooting, round all the edges on the follower. I had many headaches before I figured this out.
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The TS is designed for regular length .40 ammo. In fact, you wouldn't be able to get the 'long' .40 ammo to fit in the mags.
I shot about 1000 rds of factory ammo through mine when I first got it as I wasn't set up to load .40 yet. It had a few hiccups, but I attribute that to break in. It seems to feed smoother with RN ammo than FP.
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Mine has taken a LOT of fiddling to get reliable enough for competition. Out of the box the trigger wouldn't reset 10% of the time when live fired (no problem with dry fire). Several mags would not drop free. ALL the mags would jam up when the follower nosedived. Now I have problems with 180gr HP bullets bumping the slide stop and locking the gun open (I bought a case of bullets, so I kinda need to make it work). TC bullets sometimes won't feed.
If I had known, I would have gone another route, but I LOVE my SP01 and thought it would be an easy transition. I'm working on the grip reduction now and its making a big difference.
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Thanks everyone for your help. I have some made up and will be heading to the range to chrony them.
5.5gr Titegroup with a 180gr Berry's makes major out of my Glock 35 w/Lone Wolf barrel.
UHM yeah I think/hope you meant 4.5
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Its probably the competition hammer - it changes the sear angle where the safety engages/blocks it. If you don't want to wait, removing a bit of material from the ear of the sear, or the block on the safety will likely fix it. If you take the slide off and work the safety, you would see where its hitting.
However, yeah it should have been right from before it was shipped to you.
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4.6 of TG with 180 berrys for 170pf out of CZ TS. COAL was whatever SAAMI is, can't remember at the moment.
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I switched from 335 to Tac. It meters well, is cheap, and seems a bit more accurate.
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Wow, so more than I was expecting. Those of you who mentioned the hammer slipped, but didn't specify if the gun went off, did it? Has anyone had a slip from about half cock and it didn't go off?
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I always hear people getting bunched up about decocking a CZ by lowering the trigger. I've been shooting mine for two years and can say I haven't even come close. My wife now shoots my SP01 and has no problems with it.
So, does anyone know of any actual instance where someone has had a ND while decocking a CZ? Has anyone even had the hammer slip out of their fingers?
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I've been loading berry's 180s with 4.6 TG to make major. 4.3 will cycle the gun nicely and is very soft shooting.
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al503: hadn't actually heard of that approach. Mostly just sanding some off the edges of the
punch pin. Though as my press has been broken in, I've had fewer problems with primer drawback.
MNJ, you say you usually feel it during the seating stage.
I've had the same problem but since it usually doesn't allow full seating travel of the arm, it
results in the new casing not being fully inserted into Station 1. Doesn't this happen to
you? That has been my indicator that I've got a spent primer in the Station 2 case.
None of my 'un-deprimed' cases have made it past station 2, but I've had plenty of unprimed
cases make it round-the-horn on my 650 when I didn't pick up on how 'easy' it was to seat the
primer....the primers weren't getting fed cuz my primer plate pawl was hung up and not returning.
Causes alot of powder to fowl under the shell plate.
I have not had any problems with a new casing not making it into the shell plate. I don't think you need that part of the arm's movement for that to happen ?
An unprimed case is a whole other problem. If the plate advancer thingy isn't working it could be bent. If you got the spare parts kit there is a spare in there.
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I recently started loading .40. I have a bunch of range pickup brass as the local cops use our IPSC range. A good portion of it is nickel SPEER.
I'm having a high number of instances where during sizing/depriming, the primer is pulled back into the case. I can usually feel it on the primer seating stage, and pull it out, but a few sneak through. I always get a little freaked out when I find a round with a spent primer when I run them through the case gage - hafta wonder if it means I created a squib.
Lately I've been getting 4-5 per hundred rounds. Does anyone have any ways to prevent this? It seems to happen most with the nickel Speer (which seem to have kinda loose pockets, as the new primers go in really easy). I think I only had maybe 3 in the last 10,000 rounds of 9mm.
I load with a dillon 650 BTW.
Thanks!
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I've been loading Berry's 180gr FP with good results. Their 180gr HP didn't seem to feed as smooth.
I use the Dillon sizing die and have less than 1% that don't pass case gage. Most of my .40 brass is range pickups, so there is a LOT of glock brass in there.
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Do you have the magwell? When I installed the magwell on mine, it squeezed the lower frame a bit so mags wouldn't drop free.
I also had one mag that would flat not fall out no matter what. I've been meaning to see if CZ would replace it for me.
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I put in the glock spacer with some fuzzy velcro. I think its about perfect! Holds the mags securely, yet not tight. They go in and out smoothly.
Thanks for the tips!
Now I'm ready to take on Limited!
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Stick a small piece of the 'fuzzy' side of velcro tape between the insert and the back of the pouch.
It takes up the extra room and has some 'give'.
I like this. I think that might do it.Thanks!
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I added a big fender washer behind either the Glock or the STI spacer (I really don't remember which) and it was just right...
The STI one is the one without the 'shoulder' so even with a washer it wouldn't address the side-to-side issue. I think the Glock one has too much shoulder to allow it to fit. Maybe you used the Bar/CZ one?
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If you shoot a TS and use Versa pouches, what spacer do you use? None seem to work well. The Glock one won't let you tighten it enough, the 'CZ' one makes the pouch too short, the stock one lets them rattle back and forth.
I'm debating taking some material off the front of the CZ insert, but thought I'd check to see if anyone has and better solutions.
thanks!
6.5 Creedmoor on a Dillon?
in Dillon Precision Reloading Equipment
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Cool. Thanks for the replies!