Gunsbygiz
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Posts posted by Gunsbygiz
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I got the apex on the Black Friday deal… thanks everyone for your help.
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5 hours ago, tomjerry1 said:
I've used EGW and Wilson bullet proof, both are good options. I started using Harrison Design years ago when everyone else was out of stock. My experience is, that the quality, in both appearance and function, are top notch. I like my triggers at 2.5#, and HD make this an easy process to adjust, and they hold their fit after thousands of rounds each year. Annually, I tear down and do a complete cleaning, and while I have it apart, I lightly stone the trigger and sear. My go to trigger.
Thank you very much
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48 minutes ago, Rjracing said:
I’ve tried EGW, Wilson Combat, Atlas and Cylinder&Slide…. Cylinder&slide has the lightest, Atlas had the most crisp and EGW/WC were both an improvement over factory parts too.
Doesn’t Atlas use EGW parts?
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2 hours ago, tomjerry1 said:
Harrison Design
Any reason why?
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1 hour ago, Explosiveo said:
It’s not the arrow it’s the Indian if you know what I mean.
Actually no I don’t know what you mean… starting off with better quality and fitting internals will result in a cleaner and more consistent trigger… then yes I can tune it and so after… but I’m asking what brand do others have experience with.
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-SVI
-EGW
-Willson Combat
-Ed Brown
-Any brand I’m missing
Please tell me why you think the brand you picked is the best… this will be going in a colt 1911 Government and a Bul EDC Commander.
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16 hours ago, Wrathen said:
Finished up my mod to have the Ghost Hydra on a QLS fork. Photos and a video in link
Love the mod! I was thinking of doing something similar with the springer quick disconnect
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I figured if I’m gonna mess up my shoulder, I’d rather do it shooting than loading
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1 minute ago, ddc said:
Yes, every press has it's issues.
One thing to realize if you are just getting into this for the first time: These presses are not a "set it up and forget it" kind of activity.
They all require a learning curve to get them up and running and a learning curve to keep them running.
You will be tinkering with the press and it's adjustments and it's idiosyncrasies throughout it's lifetime.
Regular maintenance; cleaning and lubrication is a key to minimizing issues.
This is true of whatever press you choose; Dillon, Mk7, doesn't make any difference.
All very good points. I only want the auto drive because I have shoulder issues… so I’d like to keep it as automated as I can, but still watching every step.
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4 minutes ago, ddc said:
I would suggest doing some research on that option.
There are a number of threads on this site detailing the fact that the Mark 7 machines are not without their faults.
From what I’m learning they all have some downfall or about. Side by side the Apex sounds and looked smoother than the 1100. But that’s all I can go off of because this is all new to me.
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9 minutes ago, ddc said:
I have a manual 650 and an automated 1100 (Ammobot).
I would not for a moment consider automating a 650/750.
For automation to work you need a very robust machine and the 650 is not the answer.
When you are loading manually you have a number of cues when something goes wrong.
You notice those, almost at a subconscious level, and stop pulling the lever.
When automated, assuming you have no sensors, the machine only stops when you manually stop it or when it senses some sort of over-torque situation such as a bullet falling sideways or a case not centered in the sizing die or whatever.
Even with sensors detecting many scenarios you can still have those which are not detected.
Those stoppages put a tremendous amount of strain on the indexing system of the press.
Even an 1100, as robust as it is, can be negatively affected. A 650/750? Bang, something just broke.
Well it’s sounds like I should just go all in and get the apex 10
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23 minutes ago, Racinready300ex said:
I don't have a 750, but I'm pretty sure the indexing ring is the same on both presses.
Well that isn’t good then lol
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10 minutes ago, dansedgli said:
They break the indexing rings often.
A friend had one on a 650. Finally got fed up and upgraded to an 1100 with the mk 7 instead.
I have heard of this too on the 650 but not the 750…So there isn’t much difference in price between the 1100 and the apex 10… at that point I feel like I should go all in.
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I need to buy my first press, wanting an autodrive it’s hard to justify the cost of a apex 7k setup so I have looked at the 750 with autodrive and a few different people have told me that the 750 is not a good option for autodrive. However nobody can give me a real answer as to why.
i’m hoping someone else here already has this set up with a 750/auto Drive that can shed some light on if this is a good purchase. I would much rather spend 4K on this set up and the additional 3K on supplies. But I only want to make the purchase one time.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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1 hour ago, JoeMKY said:
Yeah open minor in USPSA, SC it doesn't really matter on Major or Minor. Since I started that Open 320 in 2020 (1st version) 2021 ( 2nd version using fcu ) it's running 9mm and since now it's hard to find any 320 in 40 otherwise I would make a 320 in that caliber to hit major. But I like it, and I like the way it runs. and yeah I have a 320 for prod, co , and the first version of the open gun it the backup/practice gun. Limited I'm using a Rock Island Pro in 40.
Do you shoot major out of that?
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4 hours ago, JoeMKY said:
I use a few things that's I've collected over the last 15 years. For. recoil, I have a cool fire trainer( https://coolfiretrainer.com) barrel insert for my Sig P320, Which I have a Sig Sig P320 for production, co, and open, so one barrel 3 guns to practice with drawing from holster and engaging steel. I Also Have a NextLevel SIRT pistol that I will use to emulate RFPI. Also the SIRT AR bolt replacement for my AR to practice for PCCO/RFRO. And if I feel like torturing myself, I will put in a LaserLyte in a Beretta M9 do all the stage in double action.
here's a video about it.
Thank you so much… and did you say open 320?
I Have only done CO and Limited .40 with a p320… can we see some pics? -
1 hour ago, racerba said:
why? you could still be in one lane and still do this...
You are correct… But at my range I can literally measure out and have everything pretty close, just different size targets to kind of give the depth perception needed.
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18 minutes ago, DirtyB said:
Odd. I've ran a number of rounds of 150g Syntech (1K through my Shadow 2, 1K through the X5 Legion, probably a couple hundred through my Staccato as well) without issue.
Thanks again
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9 minutes ago, DirtyB said:
Odd. I've ran a number of rounds of 150g Syntech (1K through my Shadow 2, 1K through the X5 Legion, probably a couple hundred through my Staccato as well) without issue.
I think it was one bad batch… the first 5k I got were a bigger box, no issues… 2nd batch, 3k was smaller boxes… only a couple minor issues that I could not say were 100% ammo related. Last batch of 5k have had way more issues than I’d like. But somewhere in there at the beginning of the third batch… I went to a bar sto barrel in my legion, and Got the CZs one with bull and the other just stainless but both czc made barrels. I just wondering if the smallest amount difference is what caused this, or if it’s the ammo. I’m leaning toward it’s maybe tighter tolerances are the issue with the OAL. I know it’s not the diameter because the one we measured was under size… and I thought that was causing the keyholes… I’m going to need to take them to my gunsmith and see what he thinks we should do.
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1 hour ago, JoeMKY said:
Yes I and a number of other simulators for practice in uspsa, steel , general drills and some game. It does help out a lot when I had the ky state sc match, practice with it 4 days a week For 30 minutes a month before the match and I placed well and bumped. Up a class.
Do you just use a laser or does it actually cycle the gun?
thanks for all the info… huge help
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Not more reliable feeding ammo? Less muzzle flip… nothing?
6 minutes ago, MikeBurgess said:you can cut the slide channels with a key cutter, keep in mind that the area that needs to be removed only comes into play at the very end of the slides rearward travel so cutting that area oversized really has no impact on the slide fit when in battery where we care about it, its just a matter of getting it out of the way of the frame rails
on a short dust cover frame there would be a visible gap between the frame and the rear of the dust cover, it would still "work" it would just look like crap.
doing it on a sight block would be just fine like you said those are just comps without ports.
in the end its a interesting modification that I think on a 19/2011 is really a solution in search of a problem. I have shot a bunch of different open guns and the stroked guns didn't stand out from the others in any way.
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25 minutes ago, HOGRIDER said:
Ok so first this is a great read! It also makes me wonder. I have had some issues with Federal Syntec not fully going into battery and getting the slide stuck. I have to take a mallet and tap the rear of the slide pretty hard.
This hasn’t just happen with one caliber or one gun…
CZ Bull Shadow 150gr
shadow 2 150gr
X5 legion with a bar-sto barrel 150gr
custom 2011 with a Schuemann barrel 200 gr .40
I also had a case that I ran through the x5 that were undersized and making keyholes
it’s definitely time for me to start loading!
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Those are great groups at 20 yards
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On 10/20/2022 at 5:46 PM, Artemas said:
At the range.. we have shot matches in single digits and driving snow storms. Set up practice in the same conditions too.
Other than that, either dry fire at home with target layouts and scales that resemble what you want to work on. If you are only able to use an indoor bay, use a large backer and multiple smaller targets placed around it to work transitions on
Man that’s hard core!!! I don’t know if my fingers will work well in the cold like that much less my gun
Barrel hits… but still hits the target… how do you score it?
in USPSA/IPSC Rules
Posted
Hits are Clear as day Alpha Delta… definitely larger than normal 9mm. Can see the hits on the barrel.
One barrel hit is grazed the other just barely went through but you can see where it melted over.
how do you score it? And if they or one counts how do you determine if it was the alpha or delta?