Zachjet
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Posts posted by Zachjet
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Following along. Looking forward to the answers
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I voted no, but I’d like to say I do notice it, but not in a negative way. I tend to start pulling the DA as soon as my guns pointing down range, and by the time my sights are lined up, I’m at at least half-cocked…
For what it’s worth I’ve only Da/sa for 98% of my “competitive” shooting career
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8 hours ago, Haywizzle said:
Thanks. Did it screw right into the nut stud that came with your holster?
Correct, unscrew the thumb wheel, and thread that in
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5 hours ago, Haywizzle said:
Thanks for the idea fellas. I might try to add a lock to my RHT. Anyone know the thread pitch for the RHT thumb screw hardware? 8-32? It will save me a trip to the hardware store.
This is what I'm currently looking at on McMaster-carr: https://www.mcmaster.com/products/cam-lock-levers/cam-handles-5/
This is the one I ordered
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I love my stock master
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I had good luck with CS. I usual email any pictures I have, and then call. This way the rep can see my pictures as I talk with them on the phone. They have been fairly quick about sending me out any replacement parts. I’d say their CS Is very good.
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3 hours ago, RAP said:
I agree! I like mine a lot. It’s not perfect, but what progressive press is. They all have quirks and such.
Take into the price vs a mark7(only thing comparable). Everyone forgets that
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I have a poor man’s mark7(x-10)
I love having 10 stages
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I like mine a lot.
I had the typical primer problems, but i got it all worked out. It seemed to be more 1 brand of brass screwing me up more then anything, but I sold my LNL setup for this and I’d do it again..
maybe if it was painted blue it would get the light of day on this forum……
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21 minutes ago, togmaster said:
You have no idea how sick the NY AG is. Her and the SP are on a crusade to rid the state of guns. OP just tell your buyer no, it's not worth it for you.
I live and own businesses here, trust me I know.
for what it’s worth I am not the buyer mentioned in the original post.
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What about if they plan on pinning them to 10round limit when they get them?
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I have a Rht and added a cam lock from McMaster-carr
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I only run into problem with the “1k21” brand of brass. I started pulling them
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I worked out some of the issues with mine. I love it. Great upgrade from my LNL
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This looks like a great match, I wish I wasn’t busy on those dates… definitely have to mark my calendar for next year
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Which club is this. I need to make sure not to visit it
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Sounds like somebody was salty about a speeding ticket. Lol.
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I feel the same but about 1k21’s. I started pulling them out…
have you tried the smaller decapping pins?
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I have a bunch for my pc9. I’ve never had issues as far as feeding..
I only have oem Glock mags
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135TC out of my stock master.
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But if it’s not a Dillon does anyone really care?
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3 hours ago, Thomas918 said:
Yeah my rods are centered. The priming rod is maybe a touch off based off the mark it leaves on the primer on hard to prime cases. The rod is perfectly centered through the cutout on the shell plate and priming gear though so it seems perfectly centered based on that. I’m using ginex primers which are on the large size. This batch of brass was pulled off of a police range so the problem brass was crimped Winchester and a few European pieces. I had a few slivers of brass that was the remainder of a ring crimp that was pushed into the primer pocket from the swage rod. It didn’t allow the primer to seat and when the plate indexes it knocks the primer down and back into the gear and then gets caught up. Good news though, I haven’t had the first problem I had ages ago where the primer wheel was randomly catching on the upstroke so that’s a plus. I’ve kept the priming assembly cleaned and gunk free which solved that issue I think.
I’m going to PM you my number. I don’t articulate my cell very well on these forms but you seem like you were having the exact same problems I was which I have since worked out.
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4 hours ago, Thomas918 said:
I’m still having trouble with priming assembly. It’s mostly a brass issue but I’ve gotten to the point where I can feel something is off and I remove a piece of brass from the station next to priming and see it’s unprimed. I then know a primer is going to get stuck in the gear so I poke it out of the gear before it gets caught in between the gear and assembly. It’s because of a crimped primer pocket that my swager will not swage down well enough. Looking at the swaging rod you can tell it’s getting worn down a little already. Other than that I haven’t had a case fail to feed onto the plate. Since turning up the speed on the brass collator/feeder, I haven’t had a case jam happen at the top of the case tube. I’ve replaced one bearing on the indexing arm which if it goes out again I will replace with a nylon bushing since those can take a beating. I don’t have a facebook so I can’t view the owners group so I can’t tell what others are having trouble with.
First . Just to touch on that problem I had, are the primer and swag rods centered to the shell plate?
Is it all brass Or just certain headstamp
I’ve given up on 1k21/22 brass and I’ve been pulling them all
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36 minutes ago, OPENB said:
I had a Dan Wesson PM9 that had the tightest chamber I'd ever seen. The only way to get all ammo to gauge was to run cases through the Lee 9mm Makarov sizing die, which would size the area just above the groove. If I'd kept the gun, I'd have the chamber opened up a bit. The cases were pushed all the way thru the die. Lee has a Bulge Buster kit.
Pics above, were those cases all the same headstamp? Some crappier brass would bulge on first firing, only suitable for the trash. Those are case ruptures waiting to happen.
I’ll be honest, I didn’t even check. I tossed them.
As of now, with my current set up, the only brass I have an issue with is the 1k2x brass. I picked them and toss them because the primer pockets are just so tight
Frankford Arsenal FX-10 progressive press
in non-Dillon Reloading Equipment
Posted
Imo if you want 10 stages trouble free, I believe the mark7 is just a touch under 3k