Update To Powder Measure Modification Aka: Retrograde

[cautery]

First, I want to recognize/thank EricW for doing the powder measure retrograde article here:

Dillon Powder Measure Retrograde

Now, I have a couple of things to add/update it with. Sorry guys, but my digital camera is on the fritz, so no pics....

1) After doing three powder measure mods, I have found that a 7/64" drill bit is the best size to drill the rivet out. Doing it on a drill press is wayyy easier.

2) You don't have to drill the return rod!!!

If you will use a 5/32" ID x 3/4" OD x 0.125 thick (or maybe a little thinner if you like), you don't have to drill the return rod. Simply pas the return rod Z-bend through the remaining cam slot from the back. Then feed the washer on (it helps to put some light grease between the cam and the washer). The size of the washer OD and the thickness being close to the same as the original cam, allows for secure operation WITHOUT a pin.

Next... I set up my Super 1050 yesterday and did the retrograde today...

Did y'all know that the 1050 return rod will work perfectly on the 550B? It has an L-bend with a pin already drilled... If you use the washer described above, you are set. ALSO, the cool thing about converting to the 1050 rod, is that you can remove the powder measure from the 550B WITHOUT having to jack with that little plastic keeper that attaches the rod to the ram bracket... a la 1050.

Now, for the more anal and tweeker inclined...

If you REALLY want to smoothen up the return rod/cam operation, do this:

Use a 1050 rod.

Drill an additional hole near the L-bend but on the horizontal leg

Get TWO thinner washers with an ID of 5/32" and at least 1/2" OD...

Put the rod together in this order... going from the L-bend:

Inside pin

washer #1

grease

return cam

grease

washer #2

pin #2 (original pin on the 1050 rod)

This will insure that the return rod is riding ONLY on the horizontal leg through the slot and not the beginning of the bend.

The TRUE anal retentive will do the following:

1) Optimize (read lap to width) the thicknesses of the two washers such that it is a snug but free fit when assembled.

2) True and polish the cam slot faces smooth.

3) True and polish the cam side faces...

Almost like having bearings on the rod after all this... Very smooth, very quiet.

[rick t]

When the "clunk-clack"upgrade came out I put a bolt thru the bell crank and cam and secured it with a nut to disable it and I don't use the ck rod just the springs. I have a powder ck in the next position. I have loaded thousands upon thousands of rounds that way with no problems.

rick t