Griz Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 I'm switching a revolver from a MIM hammer to an old-style hammer with the pinned DA sear. The trigger won't fit under the new sear. The obvious way to fit it is to trim the length, but I'm concerned that I need to remove so much metal that I'll be left with an un-hardened surface. It looks like I could remove some metal above the sear pin to let the sear pivot out a little more, is that the right way? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griz Posted March 20, 2010 Author Share Posted March 20, 2010 Never mind.... studied it some more and figured out that the obvious way is the only way that will work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark dye Posted March 20, 2010 Share Posted March 20, 2010 as long as the part "swings" out far enough, you need to remove material from the end that you have marked "B". As you fit the part, as long as there is a pronounced "hop" as the trigger transitions from the DA sear to the hammer (as opposed to a perfectly smooth transition)...you still need to remove material. If you remove too much, there will be a pronounced "catch" as the lower hook on the trigger catches the bottom portion of the hammer foot. Unlike the hammer and trigger, I would not be concerned about cutting through the surface hardening on this part. Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griz Posted March 20, 2010 Author Share Posted March 20, 2010 I got it. Took me two hours test fitting and then trimming a few mils at a time, but I got it handing off perfectly. It's amazing how small a "jump" you can feel when the DA sear is too long. I bet my final cut to get it perfect was a quarter mil or so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Round_Gun_Shooter Posted March 20, 2010 Share Posted March 20, 2010 (edited) Also smooth the front face Edited March 20, 2010 by Round_Gun_Shooter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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