StuartV
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Posts posted by StuartV
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I got a shipping notice today for my FTP Alpha 3 10 MOA. Very exciting!
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The FS trigger took a lot of the take-up out of my Rival's trigger. It's still more than any of my 1911 triggers, but it is nice.
My trigger was breaking at 3.0 # with the stock trigger (but not stock springs). After I swapped to the FS trigger, it added about 5 ounces (IIRC) to the break, according to my Wheeler digital trigger gauge (5 pull average checking before and after).
I don't think the break is really heavier. I think it's just the trigger shoes and where the gauge sits against the trigger face of the shoe. I think it's just a little closer to the pivot point on the FS trigger, so it has a tiny bit less leverage, thus reading a little higher. In practice, I think the weight of the break is the same with the stock trigger and the FS.
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On 4/22/2020 at 11:44 AM, FTP_Shooting_Sports said:
1. No wasted illumination levels for night use. That means you get more usable levels for what most of us do which is competition shooting shooting outdoors.
I don't understand this. You make it sound like there are X number of brightness levels and if you use 2 of them for "low light" settings, then you would have 2 less settings available for higher brightness levels. Isn't it just programming?
If you have 10 (or however many) brightness levels, couldn't you have the programming changed to have 12, with 2 lower ones on the bottom end of the range?
My reason for asking about this is all the reviews that talk about the lowest brightness being borderline still too bright.
Sometimes, my only option for practice is going to an indoor range that is not what I would call brightly lit. Based on the reviews, it sounds like even the lowest brightness setting on the A3 would be bright enough to have some bloom in that situation.
I have some (only a little) astigmatism. When I shoot with a dot that is too bright, the star effect creates problems for me.
Also, a lower brightness setting can be useful when zeroing the gun or using it for other slow-fire shooting where you're trying to be precise.
So, why tout "no low brightness levels" as an advantage? What is the downside to having one or two lower brightness options (than you currently have) at the bottom end of the range? It could be a downside if you only had one button and had to cycle through them all to get to the one you want - but that's not what you have.
Even if you cannot add 2 more levels for some reason, if you have 10 now, would it really cause issues if you redistributed them to only 8 or 9 levels - still with the same max - and used 1 or 2 for levels that would work on an indoor range that is not brightly lit, for people attempting to zero their gun?
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5 hours ago, HesedTech said:
Yes there is.
Even though the size would represent a full size target it lacks two things, depth of visual acuity and the shot angle.
Visually our eyes will see things different at the real distances, so a 5 yard target will require our eyes to focus differently than a 10 yard one.
The angle of the gun at 5 verse 10 will not transfer exactly for shots. Try it out and you will find a 2" off center shot at 5 will not become 4" at 10. Yes there are many who will run all the geometric math numbers to prove something on paper, but they just don't transfer 1 for 1 in real life shooting.
I do shoot 1/2 size targets and full size, but prefer the full size for practice. Also can someone link where 1/2 size are less expensive than full size? Thanks!
Midway.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/939467980?pid=777756
40 cents per, for 1/2 size, qty 25. I just got a pack and expect 25 to last me a pretty darn long time, only using them for my own practice. I'll paste them until they are totally shot out before pulling out new ones.
Full size from Midway are 80 cents each, even if you buy 100. 92 cents for qty 25.
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12 hours ago, OpenshooterAclass4lyfe said:
Most people use half size and 1/3 size targets for dry fire to simulate distance. I would assume it would work for live fire as well. Although I’d prefer to just use full size targets.
The 1/2 size targets are cheaper to buy, cheaper to ship, and more convenient to transport. I would kinda rather just use full size, too. But, if the 1/2 size can be used to achieve the same training goals, then I'm okay with cheaper...
1 hour ago, StefVanHauwe said:IMO It really depends on what you're willing to achieve with the specific training or drill. Distance and target difficulty does not influence your presentation time from holster to eye level, but it does influence time to acquire an acceptable sight picture (exact spot on the respective target), your trigger control and shot splits.
But that doesn't really answer the question, does it? Does a half size target at half distance give you the same training benefits with regard to acquiring sight picture, etc., as a full size target at normal distance?
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Is there any downside to shooting 1/2 size USPSA targets at half the distance, for live fire practice?
If you put out 3 half size targets, 1.5' apart, and shoot an El Prez at 5 yards, is the time something you can legit compare to the time from shooting full size targets, 3' apart, at 10 yards?
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On 3/11/2022 at 8:59 AM, WxGuy said:
I have the Zombie Pro in my Rival. Reduced the takeup and the same reset as the stock trigger. Nice and crisp break over the slightly mush break on the Rival stock trigger. I left the stock trigger return spring in for now. I have a ZP in my SFX too and it has a lot more rounds on it than the Rival so it feels just a bit better.
You're saying that the FS trigger affects the break?
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Canik mags
in Canik
I have 5 Pro Mag mags for my Caniks. They were okay at first, but quickly turned into garbage with FREQUENT jams.
I ordered followers for a Beretta 92 18 round mag from Mec-Gar and put those in. I haven't shot them a lot yet, but, so far, 2 times for each mag of loading it full and shooting it dry and I have had no problems. So, 10 mags full or 180 rounds. That is hella better than they were doing with the stock followers in them.
The Mec-Gar part # is E40082 and they are $6.95 each.
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On 3/2/2022 at 4:25 PM, FTP_Shooting_Sports said:
It seems very common that firearms manufacturers do not offer much variety for mounting options for their firearms.
Canik has like 6 different mounting plates. My Rival came with 5 of them. That covers a pretty good variety...
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I have a Master in my TP9 SFx. I got a Zombie Pro to put in my Rival, but haven't installed it yet.
I have had occasional problems with the one in the TP9 where it won't pull. Like the safety plunger thing is catching on something. OR, it could be that my finger is too much on the side of the trigger and not pressing the safety plunger fully. It has generally only happened in a match when I'm in a hurry, so I have not really been able to diagnose it well yet. (and that is another reason I haven't put the new one in my Rival yet - and also that the stock trigger is so nice)
I went for the Zombie for the Rival because I wanted something that had more "safety" and less "trigger" in the width of the face of it. That seems like it would make me less likely to get my finger on just the trigger and not be fully pressing the safety.
I put Galloway springs and the FS trigger in my TP9. On my digital gauge, it measures 5# 4oz trigger pull.
I put the same Galloway springs in my Rival. With the stock trigger (and Galloway springs), it measured 4# even. I changed the Galloway plunger spring to a Cajun Gun Works one and it dropped to 3# 7oz. I never did measure either Canik with a bone stock trigger setup. I didn't have the gauge until last Friday...
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You can get a Tungsten guide rod for the Rival. I *think* it is a little heavier than stainless.
https://w74guiderods.com/shop/
My Rival, with TF brass back strap, W74 tungsten guide rod (and 14# Commander recoil spring), TF +4 brass base pads, Holosun 407CO, and Talon granulate grips weighs 36.90 ounces (with empty mag).
It is 31.63 ounces with no mag.
The TF back strap grip feel is nice, but I like it much better with the Talon granulate over it.
I have a FS trigger to go in, but haven't yet. Still playing with recoil, trigger return, plunger, and striker springs. Right now, sitting at 3# 7oz pull weight, but still have the stock striker spring in. Waiting on options for that to arrive. Hoping to get down to 2.5 - 3# on the trigger pull.
FTP Alpha3 optic experiences
in Open Pistols
Posted
I received my FTP Alpha 3 10 MOA optic this afternoon. This thread is where I really learned about the FTP optics, so I figured I'd post and say thank you for all the info shared in here.
My new FTP is replacing the Holosun 8 MOA donut (407CO) on my pistol I use for USPSA CO.
If anyone is curious, this is a pic of them side by side.
On the left is the 8 MOA Holosun. On the right, the 10 MOA FTP. The Holosun donut looks bigger than the FTP dot, to me. I emailed with Phil and he said there is no industry standard for the red dots to compare one to another. So, I guess it can't be taken as surprising that a Holosun "8 MOA" is bigger than the FTP "10 MOA".
I like the bigger donut on the Holosun better. But, I like the bigger window on the FTP better. Hopefully, the bigger window will help my speed more than a slightly bigger dot has been.
In the picture, the FTP is set to its lowest brightness setting. The Holosun is turned down to where it appears (to my eyes) to be just slightly dimmer than the FTP. It could go much dimmer (and much brighter, of course), but I was trying to make them equal for this picture. In fact, I shot a USPSA match on Saturday and it was blazing out. I turned up the Holosun until it was easy for me to see. I don't know if it was at Max or not. I didn't try to turn it up higher, as it was plenty bright enough for me. I cannot say that it was so bright it had any "bloom", though. As big as it is, I'm not sure I need that anyway.
It's kinda funny how sharp the donut and dot look to me in that picture (which is to say both look reasonably sharp in the picture). I have a little astigmatism. In real life, the Holosun donut looks like a donut to me, but the FTP dot looks more like a scratch, not a round dot. Kinda like if you tried to make a dot with a medium point pen, using an unsteady hand. I assume that's my astigmatism - especially after looking at the picture.
Ignore how dirty the Holosun is. I haven't cleaned my pistol or optic yet since my match the other day.