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Resq47

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Posts posted by Resq47

  1. I have a couple of the semi auto Thompsons and shoot my wheelgun loads through them. 4.1 gr Clays and 230gr Masterblaster bullet. Runs fine. I have a 18" tall steel plate in the pasture. The longest level shot is 65 yards. I hold at the top to hit the bottom. (plus you can eat a sandwich while waiting for the "ding")

    Great fun.

    Dave

    539252099_4026288d87.jpg

    One of the guys shot his new Thompson repro last month in roughly issue gear. There's definitely some hang time on the 100 yard targets ;)

    My rail is here and the rest of the rifle should be here by mid-July. Then I can figure out if I need more pedal than the 3.7gr standard I shoot will give up :cheers:

  2. Are there any subject matter experts on loading for .45ACP PCC's? Next month I'll have my AR45 together and I'd like to avoid reinventing the wheel if I can.

    My gun will have a 16" barrel (OlyArms blowback) and I've plugged enough numbers to see that whatever I do the 100yd holdover will be sporty. This will be a match gun for our version of 2-gun with shots from 3-100yds. I currently load 3.7gr Clays under 230gr RNFP Precision Bullets in a 5" Kimber, if I change things significantly I'll likely go with SWC's to differentiate carbine from pistol ammo.

    Anyone been down this road already?

  3. Since I haven't seen one mentioned, look at the Blue Force Gear Vickers sling as well. It's a two point that gets rid of the webbing that typically fouls the bolt catch and is the only way to fly for me. Single points sacrifice weapon control when slung and guarantee blunt force facial trauma for me, and the Vickers rig has replaced my go-to Wilderness 3 points universally.

  4. I was tempted to load last night, but held off for the very reason that my M-frames were out in the car. Primer blow-offs are annoying enough for the ears, but can be unrecoverable for the eyes.

  5. Yeah, the only other thing I had was brass rod, and that was also too heavy. I had that thought about cleaning schmutz, but that's only a happy accident with what I had on hand.

    Professionally, I'm not aware of anyone being seriously injured by pipe-cleaner frag ;)

  6. I'll dissent here ;) I started using snows when I was in Marquette (MI's UP) for college. Two cars later and I'm still using them... I've used pirelli's, and two pair of dunlops. I'm actually on a set of dunlop wintersport M3's now that I bought last fall. Yes, I've committed the great evil of driving on snows year-round but to be honest in 250,000 miles or so on three cars I've not had a problem keeping them on.

    I also work in public safety and prefer to get to the department vs shoveling or thumbing a pull out of a snowbank. FWIW, Michigan State Police uses Goodyear snows on their cruisers as well. If you don't have the option to stay at home, they can be useful.

  7. I use MSA / Sordin Supreme Pro's for everything since I picked them up last spring. They're well above your stated cost range, but something to consider when you get to the big purchase point. I haven't used them in conjunction with plugs, I have a hard time tolerating any type of ear-pro for the 6hrs or more I tend to have them in/on. Good muffs work better for me than plugs on the long consecutive multi-day shoots.

  8. *** Update ***

    Here's what I got back from Hornady on my email...

    "The press just had a little break in and smoothed off some machined edges. You can adjust the left pawl and correct it. Use that station to adjust the left pawl so the it will index correctly and the rest will al follow in place."

    I'm buying that explaination as the sluggish index seemed to change on the subsequent 300 or so I ran through. Teething pains is all ;)

  9. My shiny new LNL AP has developed a bad habit on one position on the shellplate. When the position directly opposite the '1' mark comes to the priming station it comes in late and won't seat primers centered on the pocket. If I advance the plate it seems to find the detent and seats properly.

    My first thought was random tight brass, but I traced it back to that position and what appears to be a timing issue with just the one position. I don't see how adjusting the pawls would do any good, and I've pulled the plate, cleaned and reinstalled everything and the problem persists. The initial 300 or so rounds went fine, then this popped up. I've got several primed cases with 'smeared' primers where the lip tore, hanging over the case head in the direction of the next stage. Primers are Fed 150 LP, and I'm doing .45 ACP.

    Bad shellplate?

    Andy

  10. The testing version I've played with looks good, that's where that pic came from :D

    <_< Got any news on the next test batch?

    Not sure if I know anything that's open disclosure :ph34r: I can say that I would like to see a 30mm tube and I'm accustomed to brighter illumination, being a long-time aimpoint user. For the projected cost difference vs the shortdot it's extremely not bad ;)

  11. 10 pound spring,

    clays powder.

    3.4 grains w/230 lead bullet

    federal 150 primer

    1.250 oal.

    i dont think it gets any softer...or slower bullet speed.

    So I guess the 230 Precision Bullets I loaded to 3.5gr Clays /Fed LP150/1.220 should be mighty soft too eh? Should I go ahead and order a few springs now? 16# recoil, 19# main as currently setup in a 5" Kimber.

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