R. Batt
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Posts posted by R. Batt
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Awesome! Thanks for the info. This is to freshen up a gun I should have sold long ago.
I had an ion bonded gun once and I loved the finish.
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I've always been a Mobile 1 person. I have always meant to try synthetic ATF because of an old article I read a while back.
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Does anyone have a recommendation for a good spray can finish? I have some aluma-hyde but am wondering if there are better options available.
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On 11/27/2020 at 3:14 PM, facelessman said:
As mentioned before, Ben's drill is perfect for this, and by all means spend some quality time becoming confident in your abilities for that first shot.
However, don't become consumed with that ONE shot to the point that the rest of your practice takes a back seat to it. It is ONE shot in a stage, and any unloaded starts mean your first shot isn't DA. A 10-12 stage level 3 match might have a couple of unloaded starts, and you might only have 8-10 double action shots out of 250-300 rounds.
Also, I've seen too many malfunctioning DA/SA guns because someone was so worried about the one DA shot, that they created a magical 4lb DA pull with a super lightweight main spring that will not reliably set off primers, all because they were scared of that ONE shot at the beginning of a stage.
This
Also, a lot of first targets are close ones so I don't think many people struggle with the transition after a little practice.
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I believe WSF is fairly similar. WST is definitely faster. You can safely make major with both of them.
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Oops. I meant to say "Most guns I've had can make major safely with WST and moly bullets."
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Oops. I meant to say "Most guns I've had can make major safely with WST."
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I've used both WST and Clays for minor and major loads with moly coated bullets. WST is the safer choice for major, but, as has been mentioned, you are on the edge with it when you push it to major speeds. Just be sure to work up from a safe starting point and stop if you start getting pressure signs. Most guns I've had can make major safely with Clays and moly bullets
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I had a similar problem in a 9 major open gun I used to have. After checking the extractor and ejector, it ended up being a weak recoil spring. I'd recommend replacing the recoil spring if the extractor isn't the problem.
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I used to make major out of a five inch gun with a 180 gr. Bear Creek bullet and 4.85 gr. WST loaded to 1.16. I didn't see pressure signs, but I'd definitely work up to 4.85 gr.
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I think I spent about two hours trying to do it with tweezers, a punch, pliers, and anything else I could find. It was embarrassing how long it took brfore I finally figured it out.
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Matt Cheely did this exact thing for me about a year ago. I think the turnaround time was about a week.
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I forgot to mention that I use a bent paper clip or small allen wrench to push the clip in the slot sideways to remove it. To put it back on when you are finished you just drop it into the slot and push it back the other way.
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I've always done the same as Caspian Guy. Once the clip is removed from the pin it should be easy to remove by pushing the pin down from the top.
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I'm with msg73 and ppcgm. It can be done and it isn't rocket science. It just takes patience, the right tools, the ability to accurately measure things, and a little mechanical aptitude. Your first gun may or may not be perfect (mine certainly isn't) but you'll learn a lot along the way. I've really enjoyed my first build and when I'm finished I think I'll have a gun that is just about as good as anything out there. As was mentioned, the first one is expensive because of all the tools you'll buy. I'd get the Kuhnhausen books and the AGI videos if you decide you want to give it a try.
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Thanks for the replies. I'll stop at where the factory left the vertical area of the lugs and fit the back of the slide to to the frame. Thanks for the help.
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I'm in the process of fitting my first barrel but I don't know when to stop cutting the bottom lugs. Brownells and others say to stop when the safety will engage. Jerry Kuhnhausen's book and AGI's video say to stop when the frame and back of the slide are flush. I've also heard that you should stop at 1 degree past link vertical. Which of these is correct? Are they all correct? Thanks.
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You should be able to get the hand guard off by using a strap wrench like caspian guy said. After that you could either get the current barrel reamed or just replace it with a 5.56 barrel.
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Have you checked out the QPQ salt nitride finish that people are doing now? I don't know if it will give you the look you're going for, but it looks pretty good to me.
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Oops. Sorry about the double post. I needed to edit it for spelling and I thought I caught it before it posted.
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If you only need to shoot one shell at a time you can get a shell catcher. I think they are pretty inexpensive. One of the companies out there makes one that catches two shells, but it is only available for a few different guns.
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If you only need to shoot one shell at a time you can get a shell catcher. I think they are pretty inexpensive. One of the companies out there makes one that catches two shells, but it is only available for a few different guns.
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Kyreb,
I have had a similar problem with my SX2 and SX3. My problem was from having too much magazine spring tension which in turn didn't allow the shell catch to release. If your gun turns into a single shot at the range you might want to check to see if that is your problem.
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I'll try to work up some loads in the next little while and will report my findings.
Best Spray Can Finish?
in General Gunsmithing
Posted
Thanks! I'll check that out too. It seems like there are more options than there were the last time I refinished a gun.