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foxyyy

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Posts posted by foxyyy

  1. it was indeed the seating die..i guess, it was a seating/crimping die in one..

    borrowed a friend's seating ONLY die & everything went out smoothly

    btw, can i still use the cases with deformed shoulders? tried resizing them and so far, they all went back to their normal shape

    thanks for everyone for their replies! =)

  2. screw the sharpie..found out that the latest batch of reloads i made have the same deformation in the shoulder area

    checked my primed cases and they all look fine...chambered them and they went in smoothly

    decided to put powder in one of the primed cases & seated a head..there it was, it deformed my shoulder!

    what seems to be causing this in the seating procedure? and why just now? decided to re-adjust my seating die..reseated another head, again, a deformed shoulder =(

    am using a Lee Seating Die..already placed an order right now for a Redding National Match Die Set to replace this darn die

    dsc1478.jpg

  3. everytime i load, I always follow religiously the same procedure - tumble, lube case, resize/deprime, clean primer pocket, trim cases to 1.755", chamfer/debur, tumble again, seat primers, load powder and lastly seat bullets to 2.255"-2.260"..

    the cases used are already in its 3rd-4th reload cycle..used in the same rifle/barrel since from the start

    checked the barrel's chamber, no dirt or obstruction of any kind

    dies in the dedicated toolhead didn't budge at all..also, i measure every case that gets trimmed and gets seated with heads

    factory rounds are chambering fine..so are my old reloads

    trying out the sharpie method right now..will post pics in awhile

  4. After been reloading rifle rounds for more than a year now..had a frustrating problem of my loads not being able to feed and chamber. Bolt won't fully close. Don't know what went wrong during reloading since always followed the same steps, same procedure, same specs, same measurements as before. Only now did it hiccuped & vomited on my rifle..just before next week's match. DAMN! what to do? already resized all my cases & primed..hope the problem lies in the head seating, if not, have to resize my primed cases again?

    Here is a pic of the rounds that vomited from my rifle..those encircled (deformations) only showed after I extracted the rounds.

    ammoprob.jpg

  5. guys, just bought a fastfire II used..haven't mounted it yet to my AR..

    just noticed that when the locking screws are locked, i can still turn the elevation screw 180 until it comes to a stop while the windage screws about 360 degrees

    does the adjustment screws (elevation & windage) locks also if you lock the two locking screws? i mean, there will be no movement from those adjustment screws?

  6. @recon215

    sometimes the buttpad hole is not fully open..a thin rubber is left from the manufacturing process..all i did was punch a hole into it..

    regarding it's installation, if the screw isn't aligned properly with the hole in the butt, you'll feel that the screw is somewhat short..no matter how you turn the screw, it won't go in..align them first or scant the screw when installing it until it eventually goes in the threads

  7. hi guys!

    Just recently did we have interest in shooting ar15 rifles in matches here in our area. I guess this was due to the fact of the threat we are experiencing from "terrorists" since last year. Now, we are more into rifle shooting than pistol shooting in our club. So I decided to setup a competition rifle as I got really hooked shooting an AR15.

    I was wondering where we can order a TTI Eliminator muzzle brake and have them send it here in our area. That's the only part missing in my setup: 18" WOA SPR barrel (have it fluted in the handguard area), JP VTAC handguard, DPMS Lo-Pro upper receiver, JP Adjustable gas block, JP Lo Mass BCG, JP Lo Mass buffer, ACE Buttstock...really need the TTI Titan on this one.

    2009 3-Gun Australasia will be this coming weekend here in our country..to bad can't join. :(

    I live here in the Philippines. ;)

  8. Both kinda... The Burris XTR 1-4x with the Ballistic Plex is illuminated. The current Euro Diamond 1-4x with the Ballistic Reticle is now only offered in an illuminated version as well. Up until a few months ago, Burris offered a non-illuminated version in the Euro Diamond line. Most places (midway etc) had closeout sales until those were gone from their stocks. However, at least one store (see Chris Connely's post above) still had some in stock. There was about $100 difference in price between the older non-illuminated and current illuminated offering which was why some of us were looking around for them. It was also a source of confusion for me because it wasn't until this thread I realized they had discontinued the non-illum version. Several people talked about getting them as recently as July and August.

    This is all discussing the Ballistic Plex in the XTR line. Burris does have "Ballistic Plex" reticles in the Fullfield line and maybe another as well. The one we're referring to is calibrated (or whatever word fits best) for 5.56 and comes with a chart with the specifics of the load and bullet etc used.

    There are a few people who have the German #3 reticle in the same scope (and at least one gentleman posting above who sent his back to have his ballistic reticle replaced with the german #3). I believe there are illum and non-illum versions of the #3 too.

    Hope this helps.

    still confused..so what's the difference between the XTR & Euro Diamond if both have the 5.56 ballistic reticle? did they already fixed the bad review they got from the xtr?

    burris xtr cons ---5th post from top

    burris xtr cons ---4th post from top

  9. guys...is the scope you are all pertaining to the Burris XTR 1-4x with the Illuminated Ballistic 5.56 reticle?

    or the Burris Euro Diamond 1-4x with an Illuminated Ballistic 5.56 reticle?

  10. Foxyyy did you see any ablonged holes with the 200 grain bullets you were using?

    oblonged holes? you mean on the target paper? nah..all were round holes.

    Foxyyy the .401-.402, where did you find this? I have been trying to talk {or e-mail} with Schuemann for a couple of weeks and can not get a response. I was trying to see what he recommended.

    read it somewhere here in the forum..just search AET

    i think because of the thin lands and the 1/24 twist, many lead heads tumble..especially if they are .400 or less and are not that hard cast.

    Here is a photo of what you'll expect inside an aet barrel:

    96094892.jpg

  11. ok..so couldn't wait for a reply and went on with the load.

    chrono-ed it and it has a factor of 165pf with the 3.5gr of n310. velocity ranges from 830-840.

    tested one whole magazine & all went out fine. checked for pressure marks on the brass as well around the breechface area & none so far.

    if i load it down to 3.4gr with the same length, primer, heads & crimp..how much velocity would it decrease and what would be an estimated PF of that load?

  12. Hi guys!

    Am really curious on loading a 200gr lead head, VV N310 powder on my AET ultimatch. What's the best load for minor..let's say around 150-160pf. My barrel can accept more than 1.2" OAL.

    Is this load safe to try out?:

    -VV N310 3.7gr

    -200gr lead

    -1.2" OAL

    -no crimp (.420-.425 - doesn't jam in my barrel)

    -winchester small pistol primer

    or should i back out to 3.5gr on my powder?

  13. Emailed Redding about the problem and this is what they replied:

    Thank you for using Redding Reloading Equipment. There is a piece of lead shot under the set screw in the lock ring. It protects the die threads from the set screw. To loosen the lock ring, back the set screw off a turn or two and strike the lock ring on a wood block, or the underside of your loading bench. The impact will dislodge the lead shot allowing the lock ring to turn freely.

    Funny..as I was about to strike the lock ring with a hammer mallet, the die slipped off the table and fell to the floor. When I turned the lock ring, it was already loose. =)

    Thanks for the suggestions guys!

  14. Need help guys!

    I can't seem to loosen the lock ring of my Redding Competition Seating Die. Don't want to force it with tools as the die might get damage. Somehow was able to remove it out of the toolhead but still the lock ring won't budge. Need to re-adjust my settings with the seating die. Any ideas & tips? Thanks!

  15. Thanks! I guess putting something in-between will make the setup less stable.

    By the way, my workbench is using 1" hardwood on top. When I bolt the entire press with the mount to the table, can I put something under the table to make it more stable? Let's say 2 hardwood strips (one for the front screws, one for the back screws) with a thickness of 1" to make it a total of 2" in-between the table and the nut under it?

  16. Ok..just received the correct mount for my 550B. Do i need to put some kind of a buffer between the strong mount and the press? Likewise from the strong mount to the table? Or just install it directly metal to metal (mount & press) and metal to wood (mount & table)?

    Am also planning of putting some protective wax on the mount and body of the 550B for added protection. Turtle wax maybe?

    @Eager

    thank for the tip..will definitely do that

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