UPSguy
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Posts posted by UPSguy
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Have them make it a .120
Thank you again. MUCH much more helpful than the yahoos on the MPforum, their best answer was you are making this much to difficult.
Have them make it a .120One last question. If I should get the Hilton Yam rear sight that has the same .140 notch as stock, would I then want a .110 front blade?
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If you get a front sight that is the same width as the HK, the rear notch needs to be .172
If you keep the .130 front sight, the rear should be about .160
Hope that work for you.
ETA because I can't type correctly
Thank you. Can we work backwards? If I get the Warren sight that has a .150" notch how narrow of a front sight would I need Speed Shooters to make?
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The easiest way would be use a safe sided file to open the notch on the rear sight. Use calipers to insure that you take equal amounts off of both sides.
Is there a formula that takes into account sight radius that will give you the exact 2:1 ratio?
There is a formula, but I can't remember it. If you give the width of the sights, and the distance apart, I usually just put it in autocad. I like to cheat like that...
Ok the sight radius of the HK is 5.6", the front sight post width is .140" and the rear notch width is .168". I like this ratio or sight gap alot, am very used to it. works well for carry and comp. The new M&P that I want to change around to match the HK sight picture has the following dimensions: 6.4" sight radius, front post width of .130" and rear notch width of .140".
Scott Warren makes his rear sight for the M&P with a .150" notch width and SpeedShooterSpecialties will make a custom width front sight. So if you can punch the numbers please let me know what I need (want).
Thank you
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The easiest way would be use a safe sided file to open the notch on the rear sight. Use calipers to insure that you take equal amounts off of both sides.
Is there a formula that takes into account sight radius that will give you the exact 2:1 ratio?
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I have been shooting a HK P2000 in production, IDPA SSP and daily concealed carry. I like and have gotten used to the sight gap or ratio on this pistol. I believe iti is what is referred to as a 2:1 (or is it 1:2) were the visible gap or light on each side of the front sight post is equal to 1/2 the front sight post width. I have recently purchased a S&W M&P (2 of them actually) and the sight gap is much narrower. How do I figure out how to make the same sight gap on the M&P? If this is the wrong forum please let me know which one to put it in.
Thank you,
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Hi UPSguy:
May I suggest that you shoot the gun for at least 500+ rounds first. My 4" PC5906 trigger is so smooth I haven't bothered to borrow a trigger guage yet to measure it. Thought that I would shoot mine in IDPA until the end of this season and then evaluate the trigger pull to see if anything further is needed. May also shoot it in IPSC Production but currently having too much fun with my 5906 Super 9 in Limited!
Would also suggest that we only allow the very best of pistolsmiths (perhaps the Performance Center) to work on our PC guns because they are very well made as described above. In other words, don't screw up a good thing.
Who else would be good enough other than the Performance Center?
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What are peoples opinion of a gold dot front sight?
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Hey, sports fans!
I guess I should jump in on this…
What initially attracted me to the S&W 5906 for production was the all steel frame (makes 9mm feel like a bb gun) and excellent accuracy. Forget about that 1975 model 59 you once gagged at - all the current guns are excellent. And if you move up to guns from the Performance Center, you’re really talking about a hand fit gun. The tolerances and accuracy are as good as anything made by anyone.
For all the excellent attributes of the gun, the trigger is what really sets the Smith apart from anything else in Production. The single action and double action operations are mechanically separate. The single action uses a sear, which though a different shape than the 1911 sear, works the same way. So you can get a single action pull as good as a 1911, with about as good a reset. The double is really amazing. The third generation autos were designed using a computerized pull gauge which charts the most minute rise and fall in pressure up to the point the hammer is released. The result was a completely smooth pull with no stacking.
After a little work, my single breaks at 1.75 lbs on a pull gauge, but feels like a pound and a quarter because of the leverage advantage of the pivoting trigger design. My double is under seven pounds, glass smooth. Any third generation Smith can be set up for competition this way.
For an off the shelf or refurbished four inch, I'd suggest the 5906 TSW, which has a light rail and extra wide frame which adds stabilizing weight right where you want it. For a 5”, call the Performance Center!
I know this is a very old thread but I am supposed to be taking delivery of a new PC5906 and I want to know what it takes to get a great trigger pull out of it?
Atlas Gunworks Artemis in 9mm
in The Gallery
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Beautiful gun but I'm shocked that fits in the IDPA box. Hmm, will it still make weight with a 508T on it???????