Sigguy552
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Posts posted by Sigguy552
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I've gone exclusively to wet tumbling due to dust and concerns of lead contamination. Before that, I got my corn cob from Grainger down the street for $35 for 40lbs.
https://m.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Corn-Cob-Blast-Media-2MVR5
I think I still have some left from a few years ago since I never dry tumble anymore.
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3 hours ago, RiggerJJ said:
Chamfering and deburing are not necessary, especially for burner 3gun ammo.
You're probably not far off but with the triway, it does it all in one step so why not?
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Fwiw, I've been using a Lee precision die set someone gave me for free and it works fine on my 650. I do use lanolin/alcohol mix lube so that may be part of the reason I've had no issues.
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I've just started loading 223 on a 650 and it's really all about brass prep.
I have a toolhead with only a Lee FL/deprime die and run all my brass through on that with a Dillon casefeeder.
I then go through and and swage the primer pockets using a Dillon super swage followed by trim/chamfer/debur using a giraud triway.
My other toolhead has empty station 1, powder, powder check, seater and crimp.
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I also use lanolin/99% alcohol on a ~1:14 ratio and it seems to work fine. I spray(fine mist) about 6-7 blasts into a plastic Tupperware containers and shake it around. Since I put a bunch in, they naturally stand up on their own.
The key is to let all the alcohol evaporate off which can take anywhere from 10-20mins depending on the environment you're in.
I use cheap Lee precision steel dies and have had no issues.
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If you're reloading rifle on a progressive, I'd get a giraud triway for $100 and call it a day. I use it for 223 in my AR and 308 in my FAL and it's fast and efficient. The triway trims, chamfers and deburs all in one step which saves a ton of time. The only downside is you have to buy one for each caliber but I hand trim for all other calibers I have so it doesn't matter.
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Ddc, that's the same issue I'm having. I will try the method noted above and report back
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Bwikel, thanks for the tips. How do you access the hex head bolt with the ram up? I think my alignment gets wonky when I lower it to get access to the bolts.
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I broke the indexing ring on. My 650 and ended up having to tear the whole thing down to replace it. After I reassembled it, I noticed that the priming assembly rod was slightly off and almost brushing against the shellplate on one side.
After researching online, I ordered the alignment tool from Dillon which I've tried using a few times now based on the instructions supplied. It has made the alignment of the priming rod more centered but it's still not perfectly centered.
Can anyone provide any tips on how to get better alignment? I tried pulling it over as far as possible before tightening the 2 bolts but it seems to still be slightly off.
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I'm new to reloading and just bought a used Dillon 650. Trying to trouble shoot some issues and keep finding this site on Google.
.223 primer crimp
in Rifle/Shotgun
Posted
+1 on this method. I had a machinist friend turn down the base so I can Chuck it easier. Works like a charm and is much faster than the super swage but not as fun/satisfying. I also bolted my vise(which holds the drill) in a cardboard box so it catches all the brass shavings.