nhyrum
-
Posts
170 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Profiles
Events
Store
Posts posted by nhyrum
-
-
Depending on the gun, but I'd start with springs, extractor and firing pin. Maybe an ejector on a 1911 style
-
the one time I had hammer follow was when I put the sear spring in incorrectly, so I would start there with making sure all the legs are where they're supposed to be, which I remember being a little tricky
-
I love my 9x25 open gun. It’s not totally done yet(inability to find primers kinda killed me) buy it is a HOOT! with the lowered power factor for major, it really tames things down, so I suspect frames would last longer then sending 90 grain bullets close to 2k fps. Really all I need is a rocker installed, maybe some slide cuts, and to figure out the occasional failure to go fully into battery I get. Still, it’s a literal blast to shoot
-
How does going down in spring weight defeat the comp? The way I see it, it allows the comp to do most the work in slowing down the slide, and all the spring does is pick up the next round and close the slide.
It is fun to watch the gun stop functioning as you turn up the load.
-
Well, I'm limited to only one, but I'd put the 10mm barrel in it, which would probably kill my rts2. I have kind of always wanted to do that, but am worried about the optic
-
Vihtavouri 3n38 and Winchester autocomp have worked for me. But I haven't been able to get ANYTHING locally
-
Yeah no, that is not going to happen with that powder. Using quickloads (more just for kicks and giggles to see HOW unsafe it would be) at major velocity you'll be between 2 and 3x saami maximin pressure for 9mm +p, and that's not counting for the velocity loss from the holes, you'll likely end up near 100k psi. Titegroup is FAR FAR too fast. If you want to make major with 9, you need a SLOW powder to not end up with a gun in pieces
-
Yep. It also kind of depends on the gun/cartridge. I shoot a 9x25 Dillon for fun in an open gun, and she's LOUD. I'm glad I don't have to make the power factor they used to in the late 80's with them. I've heard stories of even ro's needing to double up on ear pro. Hell, I shot once in an outdoor range that was covered, and i really do not want to do that again, and it has made me never want to shoot the thing at an indoor range. I feel like at that point it won't be the noise that's the issue, but the massive concussion
-
I ran about that exact same load (maybe a tenth different) in my vp9, and I believe my oal was 1.075, maybe 080.
As for changing the load, if you were to compete with it, you'd want your load to be as close as you can to major, with a small buffer. But if you don't plan on competing, I'd say just find a load that works, and let her eat
-
I hope that means I'll finally get the firing pin stop I ordered like 8 months ago. I've emailed them so many times, they've all been ignored. I think if I did get it, if just chuck it in the trash now.
-
23 hours ago, matteekay said:
Speaking of, is it dumb to have a .45 Open gun? I'd say "probably", though now that small primers are unobtainium I'm less disappointed in myself.
I don't think it's dumb. But my open gun is 9x25 Dillon. Which was only used for like 2 years, 30 some odd years ago, then died. Sure, it's loud, it's odd,etc. But I don't care. I just tell ro's that they should probably double up on ear pro. Run what you got.
-
I believe cha-lee(Charlie perez) did one in an atlas
Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk -
Do they actually SELL at that price, or is it just listed?
Aaaand a gunbroker auction would net him $300 a thousand. [emoji15]
I check every few days, whenever I need a laugh.
Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
-
I don't know what your talking about. Last primers I saw were large rifle magnum match. Little much for a dab of autocomp. Great for 100 gains rl33 tho. I bought the last brick. I haven't seen any of anything.Nope. Send them to me. There's rifle primers a plenty out there
Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
The federals SHOULD be fine. It's what I used. Give them a test.
Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
-
I would say start casting too, but I know good lead is getting harder to find, and more expensive. I've got a powdercoated cast load that makes major in 9. But for now I pretty much just shoot cast and save my jacketed bullets for my open gun since I don't have a suitable mold for it
Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk -
Shoot less, but make them count more. Don't rush out and buy stores entire stock, you should have already had at least something stocked up. Panic buying is a self feeding spiral.
Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk -
I'm with you on finishes. I saw a duplex stainless/dlc with the neo chrome on the controls. And as much as I hate that neo chrome, this one looked dang sexy. Either that or a red, white, blue theme. Or I might just get the whole darned thing covered in TiN. Would be hard not to laugh every time I unholsteredHere is mine. It's run flawlessly for 9,000 rounds. I did change the sight to an SRO. I like it better than the DPP 2.5.
JUM Guns frame and slide, Cheely e2 grip. Trubore blank with Eric's custom comp cuts and a mix of Cheely, Extreme Engineering and EGW parts. I'll finish the blending and stone the serrations this Winter. I still cannot decide what finish I want.
This was my first. I subsequently built an identical gun on a 1911 receiver as a dedicated SCSA Open gun.
http://content.invisioncic.com/r270761/monthly_2019_03/100_1175.thumb.JPG.0b18896291bf618f77b79171d7d55c0f.JPG
Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
-
Yeah I've tuned my mags. My issue is once I've run about 50 rounds through it from clean, I get rounds not going all the way into battery. Can't really put a heavier spring in, since I already might be to lighten it to get it tuned properly (still get a little muzzle dip), and I don't want to push the shoulder of the case too far back, because then I get head separation. This next batch of ammo I seated the bullets a bit deeper and crimped a tiny bit more. Just not entirely sure what is causing them to not fully chamber. Usually just a slight bump on the back of the slide does it. I'm hoping that if THAT'S not the issue, lightening the slide a bit, which I want to do anyway, will help. I also think my comp is far too large. During my testing with the barrel but before the comp, I had to get a 8.5 lb lighter spring to get it to cycle. The Dillon is an interesting round!
Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk -
I built this, based on a rock island 10mm double stack. It's in 9x25 Dillon now, and still in progress, need a racker put in and maybe slide cuts. She's got her fair share of feeding problems I'm still trying to sort out.
Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk -
I usually load them to 1.125. They do have a different profile that makes them need to be seated shorter
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk -
Gotcha. I misunderstood. Carry on
I'm not having trouble with the OAL in general. The Glock leade is very generous and will accept this bullet profile at OALs longer than the magazines would allow. The CZ required a really short OAL with this bullet profile, but I can seat the SNS 147 RNs longer.
The issues I'm having now are with case gauges, where OAL shouldn't be a factor (within reason). The offending rounds chamber fine in the Glock and seem accurate enough, but I'm trying to figure out why I can't get these rounds to gauge reliably. I've varied the OAL substantially when making dummy rounds, and the problem seems to happen only with this particular bullet.
Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
-
Well... You changed two things at the same time. Seat back to your short load, load a dummy or a few, and see if you get a better passing percentage.
It could be just the profile of the blue bullet needs a deeper seating depth. Oal really only matters for getting things to fit a certain space like a magazine. Once they're in the barrel, the limiting dimension is CBTO (case/cartridge base to ogive) or, from the base, to where the bullet contacts the rifling. Bullets can be the same length but have a different profile, even if they look the same, and need different seating depths to clear. This is also barrel dependant, because chambers aren't all cut the same. From what I'm understanding, this seems to be your case. Various other bullets fit at a similar oal, but not this one.
Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk -
I agree. Im tending to lean towards the primers causing the issue. Switching to a softer primer could help. But could be because firing pins were changed, springs changed, etc. Longer firing pin or stronger spring could help, but could also lead to pierced primers too if they're not the cause. Being as it was modified it's hard to say.It seems to me, that having several rounds which failed to go bang is more concerning than SDs. Focus on Reloading 101 and set aside the chrono for now.Just looked at a few Wilson kits, and the competition kit comes with 12 and 13lb hammer springs, while the duty kit (that claims to ignite MOST primers,100% the time... Seems contradictory...) Comes with 14 and 15#, while the factory is 20. My guess is that's the issue with the primers not lighting. But that's just speculation
Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
-
Pistol is way easier. You're getting in your own way. Find the velocity you like, and be done with it. Using my auto trickler is way too friggin time consuming to do pistol rounds, and since most pistol powders produce such a large spread, it's not worth my time to use it over the Dillon measure. I only use a Chrono to see what the average velocity is, that's it. And only if I'm shooting for a certain power factor do I use any Chrono data to change anything about my load. It's a totally different animal. Totally different goals, with a different mindset. Let the gun (how the recoil feels) and target tell you what it likes. I only break out the Chrono for pistol loads for uspsa loads that have to hit a certain number, or if I'm curious how much energy they've got, like my 454 casull.
Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
Which thumb rest?
in Open Pistols
Posted · Edited by nhyrum
I use the thumb rest [generic] *thumb rest [generic]*. I'm relativity inexperienced, and haven't used anything else, but I really like it.
Ah... It looks like the one I use, can't be called by name. But it's where you put your right foot in your car(in the US)