dwfish
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Posts posted by dwfish
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On 12/25/2017 at 9:11 PM, dwfish said:
No slop
thanks
would it be the same by tightening the x bolts.??
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On 1/11/2018 at 8:34 AM, jhgtyre said:
What about the bench top? I know you said the bench is "rock solid and bolted to the wall" but does the top have any flex in it? A thinner material that flexes a bit will allow the press to move during operation and could cause the problem you are having.
I put a little bend in the bottom 1/4 in of the case feed shut off switch bar. Worked great. Bent it DOWN to the right. Lets it go up a little farther but does not hang up on the feed tube.
I also put a big champher on the top INSIDE of the tube.
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On 1/11/2018 at 3:35 PM, SGC said:
I braced mine to the wall with a pipe hanger. Stopped all the upside down case issues I was having. Only cost a few dollars.
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
LIKE
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What model do you have.?
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On 1/11/2018 at 10:19 AM, racerba said:
Hmmm - looking through pictures on google, i don't see the white delrin thingy anymore...it used to go into the top where the case drops straight into the funnel (preventing the case from going sideways)...the cases used to get stuck there because the cases would not fall fast enough, jamming the case feeder. the fix was to take it out...that's what I did...I guess Dillon got rid of that piece...
looking through pictures, i see that there are pictures of cases being sideways preventing cases from falling down the tube - I believe this is your problem...
Sorry, that has never happened to me and i would not know how to fix that...
What model do you have.?
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10 hours ago, Service Desk said:
Try a different toolhead...as has been suggested. The powder-thru die has some clearance from the insert, so once the case hits the taper on the insert it should pull the insert into alignment... 19 thou is a big ask though !
Changed tool heads 7 time this last week. All are the same. Changed platform twice SAME.
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Just now, cvincent said:
Grab the platform and twist it. You will see the crank rotate at the location as marked in the picture. You should be able to shim it to take up some of the excess tolerance. I’ve noticed this in my press as well, I can watch the powder funnel insert into the brass off center and other times it will be centered. It’s intermittent. I haven’t corrected mine as I don’t really see any benefit at this time. My ammo is fine.
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkNo slop
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On 9/5/2006 at 4:12 AM, Skywalker said:
Had the same problem a few weeks ago, and was wondering the same.
If I recall correctly, I had to remove the primer chute (element 3, P/N 16210 on page 52 of the user manual) to make enough room for a wrench.
My open end fits right in
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If anyone has had this problem please holler.
If you will look at the Picture to the left I am having problems getting MY Dillon to line up with the cases. I have spent 20 hours checking and re checking. I had the local pro stop over and he just scratched his head. I have changed every part and timed the machine every time. This is happening on ALL cal. we have used.
Could you guys look at your press when loading, check station 2 powder/flaring action. Just as the cases come into contact with the flare tool there is a miss alignment on MINE.
Would just love some feed back on if your cases tilt to the left as the tool goes into case.
I found a way to solve this problem but Dillon is focused on the alignment tool and not the problem/solution . They think it is an alignment problem and it is NOT. Their tool only adjusts Orientation of the platform and the tool head. After doing the (alignment) with their tool 20 times with all my cal.s I find that if I take out the front Tool head pin and push the thing in .019" all is good. BUT with the tool head pushed over I can not get their ALIGNMENT TOOL TO WORK.???????? I am just putting a C clamp on the toolhead and life is GOOD.
Thanks for any Ideas
Thanks for checking you machines.
PS I love Dillon and all but 1 guy there.
Bless N zzzzzz
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On 9/5/2006 at 4:02 AM, charliez said:
I've had my 650 press now for just about 3 weeks. I love it, but there are a few things I uh "dislike" about it
Before I call the design "lacking" I thought I'd ask here and see if it's just me being a bonehead first ...
1. Caliber conversion from 9mm/40S&W to 45ACP.
This requires changing the primer punch from small to large. How the heck do you folks do it? There is no room to insert a 9/16" wrench under there! Space is so tight.
I had to remove the press head (the entire assembly the shellplate is screwed on) to get access to the primer punch nut. Then of course as the assembly was lifted out, the spring that is wound around the press cylinder went schwinggggg to neverland (Brian, thanks for including the spare parts kit!), putting that spring back together was another ordeal.
Is there a simpler way to replace the primer punch? RCBS, and Hornady have very straight forward ways of changing it.
2. The casefeeder, case pivot, the thing that takes the case from the casefeeder tube and moves/slides/feeds it to the shell plate returns by spring pressure.
This mechanism's design should instead return by a positive cam action as it frequently gets stuck due to the spring pressure not sufficient to bring it back in my case (45ACP).
For the 45ACP caliber conversion for some reason it gets stuck 1/3 of the time (1 stuck once very 3 cases) and I have to manually push the case pivot to insert a new case. I have used the casefeeder caliber conversion kit that comes for the 45ACP (red case funnel and red tube stub). With my 40S&W caliber conversion, I noticed there are 2 tube stubs, presumably one for 10mm and one for 40S&W, one of which resolved the stuck problem. Only 1 tube stub came with the 45ACP caliber conversion.
3. The primer seating mechanism on the up stroke and beyond of the press is also driving me bonkers. For 9mm and 40S&W this works fine. For 45ACP, I get 1 primer for every 10 cases that is semi-seated (i.e. protruding) because I didn't apply enough pressure on the beyond up stroke of the press.
This mechanism should also have a positive cam action (with perhaps a spring buffer to avoid a compression detonation). I prefer to have it on the down stroke of the press instead of up and beyond. The up and beyond maneuver pushes the table skittering sideways, whereas the downstroke has much better leverage pushing the table down.
4. What's the point of having a primer quick change system if the primer punch isn't part of the quick change? I expected the primer punch to get lifted off as a single unit with the primer plate and tube, but instead had a "WTF" moment looking at issue #1 above.
With the 4 problems above, I'm thinking that I'll quickly just need 1 complete press for each caliber and that's becoming expensive quickly to become competitive with say multiple dedicated Lee, or Hornady presses
What am I doing bonkers?
Thanks!
You can HAND prime your cases and take out the DEprimer. EASY to do and I buy some primed cases and it is GREAT. Check that there are no spent or live primers under your platform as this will make things tough to prime on the up stroke. These machines are wonderful and there are little things that we wish were different BUTT here we are. I have had spent primers build up under my press for reasons I can not explain. With the primer assy. off you can get right in there and CLEAN the spent primer shout.
On the # 2 check for deformation on the little red liner for the case feed and the Big plastic tube adapter. Remove SAME and check for ease of movement in these and you could do a test and don't load just rune a few thru watching the operation of each item mentioned. Do you have your cam on the case feed turned to the STEEP (pistol )to the left facing the machine and case inserter/dropper.?? Shooting in the dark but you could just for a minute fill the tube and with the handle UP just use your thumb empty the cases into your left hand. that will give you a chance to watch the transition from tube to plate with out getting tangled up. Single operation observations will tell you more than when loading in most cases.
Bless Nzzzzzzz
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On 12/6/2006 at 11:56 AM, sargenv said:
I've found that my 650 does not like CCI primers in any way, shape or form. A switch to a different primer brand may make the whole thing a moot point.
Vince
I use win, primers ONLY and they works great. A buddy used the loader for his 38 super and he put CCI s in and you could not even feel them seat. Was so smooth.
You could call Dillon and they will give you an alignment tool FREE.
Check the size of seater you are using and check the timeing, AND just look and see if the primer seater is aligned with the shell plate .
Blessings
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On 9/4/2014 at 2:11 PM, Saltywheels said:
Had a 550 for many many thousand rounds. Just got my 650 & am struggling mightily with problems. Am using the same Dillon 45ACP dies, same cases & same Win primers I used for years on the 550:
1: Cannot fully seat large Winchester primers. Dillon advised me to ensure that the return rod on the Powder measure was not overtightened as that would restrict the movement of shell plate. Done. No luck. I hate doing this, but have to put primed empty cases back in Station2 & try to gently push the primer further in. No luck. How serious are non-flush primers? Will they even feed?
2:Just dont seem to be able to bell the case mouth the right amt (?). If I over flare, the completed round wont fit the case gauge. If I flare a minimum, the case eats into the bullet.NEVER had this problem with a zillion rounds on the 550. I know--I know-operator error. But what the bleep am I doing wrong suddenly???
3: Powder check seems messy & 'splaters' powder on the shell plate as it moves up. Do I have it adjusted too deep?
Appreciate hearing back.
Just now, dwfish said:Sounds like there is something under your Platform not allowing it to go all the way down. ARE you using the proper size of primer inserter LG/ SMALL .??? Have you changed brands of primers just to see what happens.??? High primers is one of the MOST dangerous things you can have. This can cause the cartraige to go off before the bolt is closed and a shell going off when not in battery is,,, BLINDING for you and others. High primers in a revolver can LOCK the gun and you will not be able to get it open. You should be checking ALL you loads before using them. Danger Danger DANGER
ARE there any primers stuck in the discharge port or tray under the platform. Something is stopping the press from going all the way down. This will cause some people to over tighten the powder return rod spring. This is what you received in reply before.
Blessings
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On 9/4/2014 at 2:11 PM, Saltywheels said:
Had a 550 for many many thousand rounds. Just got my 650 & am struggling mightily with problems. Am using the same Dillon 45ACP dies, same cases & same Win primers I used for years on the 550:
1: Cannot fully seat large Winchester primers. Dillon advised me to ensure that the return rod on the Powder measure was not overtightened as that would restrict the movement of shell plate. Done. No luck. I hate doing this, but have to put primed empty cases back in Station2 & try to gently push the primer further in. No luck. How serious are non-flush primers? Will they even feed?
2:Just dont seem to be able to bell the case mouth the right amt (?). If I over flare, the completed round wont fit the case gauge. If I flare a minimum, the case eats into the bullet.NEVER had this problem with a zillion rounds on the 550. I know--I know-operator error. But what the bleep am I doing wrong suddenly???
3: Powder check seems messy & 'splaters' powder on the shell plate as it moves up. Do I have it adjusted too deep?
Appreciate hearing back.
Sounds like there is something under your Platform not allowing it to go all the way down. ARE you using the proper size of primer inserter LG/ SMALL .??? Have you changed brands of primers just to see what happens.??? High primers is one of the MOST dangerous things you can have. This can cause the cartraige to go off before the bolt is closed and a shell going off when not in battery is,,, BLINDING for you and others. High primers in a revolver can LOCK the gun and you will not be able to get it open. You should be checking ALL you loads before using them. Danger Danger DANGER
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First of all the spring is easy to put on and take off. Get some heave thread and put thru the end or in the coils of the spring and hook it on the front pin and with the thread wrapped around the main shaft gentley pull around and put on back pin. This is in the BOOK they gave you.
Second if you are changing the primer insert punch large or small STOP and get the proper tap that fits and chase the threads in the platform. REALLY makes it nice. You will be able to use your fingers to change the item. REALLY, just go buy an old 9/16 inch open end wrench and thin (grind ) the edges and it will give you more room to use it.
Problems With Dillon Xl 650
in Dillon Precision Reloading Equipment
Posted
DO NOT shoot high primers in ANY gun. BOOM possible or will lock the gun up.!!