Alderleet
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Posts posted by Alderleet
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My personal take, since I've competed going on 4 years;
The ruger precision rifle is the best bang for your buck, since it gets you into the dual mag accepted DBM bolt game, with a short throw bolt, good trigger out of the box, good 20moa cant built into the top of the receiver, lower bore axis to alleviate recoil and rise, a really well done barrel, a fantastic warranty, and a pricepoint to start you in the production series classification. Which by the way, is a fantastic class to be in. Pro's and such will offer you tips/tricks all throughout the match, and even give you some coaching throughout because you're not competing directly against them. Granted, the ruger is a smidge rough around the edges, so simple breaking of corners and polishing the bolt/trigger engagement points is all thats really needed to make shine.
As far as glass is concerned; Magnification is great, but clarity/light transmission is equally as important. First Focal plane is non-negotiable. SFP is a major hindrance and forces you to do public math while racing against the clock. If you run into a unknown distance stage, then it makes is even harder to score well. Thats not to say its not possible, but its a severe handicap.
You have to make the judgement call between clarity and magnification. If you compare a nightforce SHV-F1 4-14 Mil-R to a Vortex PST gen2 5-25, the reticle on the vortex is superior (in theory), but the light transmission is slighty worse and the clarity isnt as good. Its small differences, but you'll realize if you're shooting with the sun coming in at an angle and its super bright around you, while you're shooting a subdued target in the shade, that little bit of extra clarity and transmission helps tremendously. Secondly, magnification is a tricky subject, because everyone thinks that "mo biggah, mo bettah" but thats not always the case. Quite a few guys who shoot with the higher end Kahles/NF/Tangent/S&B end up running their magnification pretty much fixed around 12-15x magnification, with the occasional bump into the 20x range for the Know Your Limit/Dot Drill at 100.
The only thing that I've learned over time that made a huge difference: -Locking windage turrets-.
Either by a cap, or by a physical locking feature. You absolutely need it. I have seen and fallen victim to this so many times. In a hurry, you're loading and running a quick dope chart for that stage. Your mind is everywhere at once trying to prep, and you're suddenly third shooter up. You grab your gun, mentally do your checklist, and everything else. RO asks if you're ready, buzzer goes off, you run/move to position, calm down, boom. Swing and a miss. Do it again, calm down: boom, miss again. You get pissed. Third shot, still miss and you're absolutely sure you were still and locked in.
You suddenly go through the panic of figuring out what happened to your gun; was the barrel up against something, did something come loose, etc.
Then it dawns on you; you bumped the damned windage turret while getting to the start point, and now your 9/10ths a mil to the left.
You recover slightly, but that stage is a wash, and now you're in desperation mode to make up as many points as possible with what little time remains.
Its gut wrenching.
As far as caliber is concerned, 6-6.5 is the sweet spot. Great velocity, great BC, minimal recoil, and less drift to worry about. A kestrel is nice tool and neccesary, but you can negate some of the need for it if its fairly calm, and your match keeps the max distance under 600.
With your AR-10, i'd rebarrel it for a smaller caliber honestly. You can run a 6.5CM barrel or a 6CM barrel, and be better off since both will fit AR-10 mags with an OAL of 2.80
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On 7/20/2018 at 11:01 AM, MemphisMechanic said:
That’s only US $7,024. A complete bargian.
Lol. Its nearly 1/2 the price of a pre-owned camdex 2100.
totally a deal...
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On 7/25/2012 at 5:37 PM, Jaxshooter said:
I live in Florida and the heat and humidity is why I have a gun / reloading room in the house. I would not reload in the summer if I had to do it in the garage..
Thisx10,000. I live north of the line, and my garage stays at a brisk 100+ with 50%+ humidity.
My inlaws can deal with sharing a room with reloading presses, while they visit. Haha.
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On 6/24/2018 at 8:14 AM, Tachead7075 said:
This one is even nicer...
https://armanov.com/eu-shop/reloading/dillon-parts-upgrades/quick-disconnect-dillon-powder-measure/
I still prefer the Uniquetek just for emptying powder though as you don't have to remover the whole hopper.
Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk
I can assure you, the entirely crimson model is better made. Its cornered, relieved, and cut in such a way as to actually help you pull the tab.
my buddy has the armanov, and hates that its a side to side pinch affair on a stubby stem.
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it sounds like your return spring isnt doing its job (likely brass shmutz keeping it jammed) so its keeping the collar and bearings in alignment.
pull it apart and clean it.
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I too want to praise Patriot Defense; This guide rod rocks.
I can run my limpro a bit harder and faster, and I dont dip down as far coming back into target.
And I now make idpa SSP weight with a bolo’d/titan 9mm limpro, scales 2.0, and henning base pads. It comes in exactly at 41.70 +/- .05 ounces, across multiple scales, including a certified postal scale.
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Gross, lol. It’s got that nasty powder coat greasy-gloss sheen to it.
wholly unappealing.
As boring as hard chrome is, it’s got a durability pedigree that these EZ-Bake oven finishes cant hold a candle to.
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Some options I've found:
Scales 2.0 grips are a little lighter, a lightweight guide rod, a flat single sided safety, and a small width dawson fiber front sight will bring down weight.
I'm hunting the same thing, but I added a titan hammer and bolo (legal now, because a stock3 extreme in 45acp meets division requirements, and parts from one that meets it can be used in another firearm) So I need to trim weight a slight bit (titan is heavier)
I've often wondered if the phrase "Internal reliability work" can be used to mill a little bit out inside the slide and frame.
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On 12/5/2017 at 10:17 PM, 10X said:
You could try applying superglue over the areas that are breaking off. It will soak into the wood a bit before it cures. That's a known solution for stabilizing fragile wood.
I believe they soak the soak in a solvent, dry, soak again, dry, ensure oils are pulled from the wood and its bone dry, then put it in a vacuum container with a thinned resin and let the vacuum environment replace air with resin, and then remove and let harden.
weight will go up, but the wood turns into damn near stone.
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My friend has a shadow 2, because he wanted something awesome outta the box.
after adding PD parts, egd parts, and a minor polish, he likes my gun more.
i like the shadow quite alot, but I dislike the inward slope of the slide when trying to rack the slide. The lim pro shoots and points easier for both of us, but I think its just because its not so front heavy. We’re marginally faster with it, but thats negligible since were both not accomplished shooters yet.
i do however like the shadow trigger break points, and how the slide slope slightly helps align my eye with the front sight better during recoil.
I’m a rookie, and my opinion is based on my limited experience.
Plus, i bought my limpro so it can pull double duty for idpa, and the shadow2 cannot. Its pretty much the best idpa ssp gamer gun you can run right now since it meets the ssp requirements, fits the box (just barely), and since a stock3 extreme has the egd titan hammer and can be made to meet weight, it made the titan hammer ssp legal too for the limpro.
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9 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said:
Smaller hands. Wants a grip tha doesn’t have skateboard tape (or presumably, silicon carbide glued to it for a similar look.)...?
Grippy. Thin. High quality.
That’s easy. Put Henning grips on it. I wear a size L glove and all my polymer guns were slathered in grip tape. I found no lack of traction with Hennings- they were just too thin for me and my long, skinny fingers.
So what grips do you recommend/use now? I have XL mitts and skeletor fingers, and I’m looking for even larger grips that are still light.
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Fantastic timing. I was holding out for a titan/bolo until there was a sale.
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Does anyone know if dillon themselves, or any of their smaller distro’s are running veterans day deals?
I’m looking for a dillon 650, and I’ve been waiting over 2 months for veterans day hoping for a deal.
I know dillon offers 10% to active mil, but I’m hoping that veterans day will net me a better percent off.
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The problem with used 1050’s is guys will sell them towards the end of their life expectancy after running them hard and long doing commercial work.
its a poor mans Camdex, and people treat them as such. Hence the dillon “1 year, and we wont cover” warrenty.
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1 hour ago, bulm540 said:
Accdg to pd , some tangfoglio pistols have a short spring pocket. I cut 1 coil and all is well.
Thanks for the tip. I snipped a coil off and now all is well.
Its a little bewildering to have to trim a spring to fit.
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The hammer spring channel looks to be too short for the length of the patriot defense spring.
At full hammer compression, the spring is already maxxed out and has no more compressable room. Its probably only a millimeter too long (at full compression) to prevent the slide from cycling.
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So heres a hell of a conundrum:
-i got my springs in today, and fitted everything into my LimPro.
-using stock hammer/disco until funds allow bolo/titan.
-installed 13lbs hammer spring
-assemble
-will not cock back because hammer canno t drop low enough to clear the slide.
I noticed the PD hammer spring was long as hell, but in this case its actually stacking in the hammer pin channel, and physically disallowing my hammer come back far enough the slide to even cock back.
Has anyone else had this, and how have you proceeded in this case?
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I run a nightforce shv-f1 on my ruger 77/22 rimfire trainer.
I’m a bit of an odd duck, as 99% of you will never see a 77/22 on the line, much less one with a Walnut PWS trex thumbhole stock.
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Neat. I’m sure he’ll be the next Jerry Miculek.
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How much better is it compared to its stock condition?
I’m just curious how the pull and feel changes, considering its supposed to be pretty damn good out of the box.
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Its been 5 days, and I’ve gotten close to 20 emails. A majority have been more and more offers, the rest have been legit spam and conpiracy tier emails.
i regret signing up for this.
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The stock 1 is large frame, correct?
What is the finish like, hows does it feel? Does it seem durable?
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I have a reasor precision game changer, and its a nice barricade bag.
i also have a couple rifles only bags, and some wiebads.
For just static prone (i really dont shoot that position frequently anymore) the rifles only bags work fine. No need to spend a ton on a bag designed for barricade gaming, when you’lre literally using it as a rudimentary door stop for your gun.
Powder Measure
in Precision Rifle
Posted
This is gonna blow some minds;
The most accurate extruded stick powder thrower I've ever used is a cheapo Lee perfect powder measure. I know everyone will scoff, but with a titan reloading baffle, I manage to keep my throws within .06gr. For perspective, a single kernal of H4350 or Varget, weighs .03grs each.
I can throw a charge, weigh it, manually tweezer in a kernal or two, and voila: I'm within a +/-.02 variance (partly due to broken/randomly smaller kernals).
Its a true diamond in the rough as far as throwers go. People automatically look past it, but for this one and only application, its exceptional. I have a harrels thrower also, and while its extremely accurate and consistent, it also cost 10x as much.