camaross400
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Posts posted by camaross400
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I know that you were asking if anyone has purchased a motor from another company other than Dillon. However, I bought the Dillon variable speed motor and installed it. I wanted more speed to keep up with my auto drive. I am happy with it. I made a short video of the process.
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I only have pics and video for the modified tool head for the 1050. Sorry.
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You have to use a combined seating and crimp die if you use a powder check. I don't like them.
I agree.
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I agree. If the original press came with dies at $2750 then we need to make it part of the discussion of increased price. I do not know what came with the press when it originally was released because I was satisfied with the 1050X that I currently own.
However, I do want to see if the press holds up over time. I am intrigued by the primer collator and the primer orientation sensor. I would also like to add the powder check since I seat and crimp in separate stations. If the press was truly $2750 but was increased to $4400, I cannot justify that price increase.
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The 4000 is just for the manual evo press. So yes, if you wanted to add the evolution press you’d have to pay 4K. The evo plus auto drive is like 5-7k.
Thanks. I’ll stick with my 1050.
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If I already have an autodrive on my 1050 (I have the 1050x), can I just add an Evolution press to my current system? Would I still have to pay $4000?
I would like to have the extra station for the powder check since I like to seat and crimp in separate stations. I would also like to eventually purchase the primer sensor and collator later on.
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Great!
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I just matched what I found in manufactured rounds of American Eagle Black Box.
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0.245
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I also use a universal Swage Die (mighty armory) in the Swage Station.
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I use the Lyman M Die to help expand the case to help seat the bullets because the Dillon RT1500 makes the case mouth smaller than what I want. I also crimp using the Lee Factory Crimp Die. I added a picture of my loading setup.
I
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I am currently looking into buying an Evolution Pro. I own a Mark 7 1050X and have enjoyed it over the last 2 years. I am very interested in the primer collator. I hate loading primers.
However, I am still on the fence about making the purchase because of the wait issues I have read about online and my own experience with customer service and parts. I want to wait to see how the press and customer service holds up.
For example, when I purchased my Mark 7 for my 1050, the console and one Sensor had to be returned because they didn’t work/operate efficiently.
They had me take them off the press and return the defective parts to them so they could take a look at them. Since I had just purchased the autodrive (1 week old), I thought they would just send me new parts and have me mail the old parts back to them.
I had to wait a week for it to arrive to them and then time for them to repair/replace and ship it back. Also, I had to contact them 4 times (email, support form and phone calls) before they got back to me.
Once the new presses are in the hands of consumers for a while, I will take a look at them.
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Check out Fast & Friendly brass website then Tips and Tricks. They talk about the reasons too. The swage process changes heights of the ram when the press is fully closed due to swaging needs. When trimming I encounter height variations when swaging too. Heck, I still have a hard time maintaining consistent trim heights just running the trim die by itself. I may need to try another cutter on the Dillon trimmer - not sure. On the 650 I would bump the cutter twice and it worked well. The 1050 has the Mark 7 auto-drive and it just goes up and down one time - as you know. I just have to mess with it more to get it right. I run batches of 1K at a time so it takes a while to use it up before I try it again.
I will try your set up to see if it is an improvement. Thanks.
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I know it will take 10 k rounds to break even and that seemed like allot when I bought the 650 but it only took about two years loading the 9 mm to break even . I know ammo is fairly cheap now but there were times that you couldn't find any. I did go ahead and order the1050 and if it doesn't work out on the .223 I will get a 9 mm conversion or whatever I'm shooting at the time and load with that. the good thing about Dillon is they seem to retain there value pretty well.
Many people say it is not worth it to load 223, and I agree when loading up the 55gr bullets. However, I load 68gr which can get quite expensive when trying to purchase it from a store. I save quite a bit loading it myself.
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Even with a 1050 you will still need to preprocess you brass before reloading. 1st size and swage only, then 2nd use the Dillon trim die and 3rd load your cass. I use 2 tool heads, actually 1 extra that can be switched between different calibers and a dedicated one for reloading 223. The dedicated one has a Lee decapping die in place of the sizing die and the backer die removed. (used only when swaging) and replaced with the M die. 1st run - the empty tool head gets the de-capping die and backer die for swaging. 2nd run - Just the trimmer die and back off the swager. (need un-sized cases for the trimmer die to hold cases) 3rd run - Sizing die and put Lyman "M" die in place of backer die with swage rod backed off, set primers, powder charge, place bullet, seat bullet and finally crimp case.
With the 650 you can do the same thing at a much lower cost with a super swage 600 to swage the case. I have both machines but my 1050 has the Mark7 auto drive and Mr Bullet feeder to help out. I really like the 650 - the 1050 is a brute of a machine.
Why do you process brass in two runs? Does this help with the process? I am always interested in hearing how people prep and load rifle.
I currently load in two runs.
Processing Brass: I currently run the decapping die in Station 2, swage die in Station 3, Dillon trim die in Station 6, sizing die in Station 8.
Loading: Station 2 M Die, Station 3: Swage Die with rod backed off, Station 4: priming, Station 5: Powder, Station 6: Mr. Bulletfeeder, Station 7:Seating Die, Station 8: Crimp
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But I know that you weren’t looking for Mr. Bulletfeeder and Mark 7.
I would suggest getting the Specialty Guide Rod Kit.
It makes the tool head have less play.
https://lvl10i.com/products/specialty-guide-rod-for-dillon-1050
I also suggest the primer catcher kit. You don’t want to worry about changing the cup when you are cranking out your ammo.
https://lvl10i.com/products/dillon-1050-primer-catcher
I suggest the casefeed stop to keep the brass from loading when you are adjusting things.
https://inlinefabrication.com/products/case-feed-stop-dillon-1050
I suggest the 2x powder hopper tube. When you are loading 223, the standard powder hopper has to be refilled constantly.
http://www.uniquetek.com/product/T1277
If you are going to add a trimmer to prep your 223 brass, I suggest that you get extra blades to make sure you get good cuts each time.
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I agree with getting the Mr. Bulletfeeder and Mark 7. I use it to prep 223 brass and to load it. I also use it to load 9, 45, 10mm and 7.62x39.
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I have a Dillon 1050 with a Mark 7. I used to use Lee, but I did have some issues with primers not being decapped. I switched to Mighty Armory and have had very few issues (maybe 1 every 8,000 pieces of brass). I also like the simplicity of the setup. No need for wrenches...just screw the die down into the press, drop in the pin and screw on the cap. I now own a MA back up swage rod as well.
The Lee die worked pretty well for me for years. However, I now have my trusty Lee in a drawer.
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I use Hornady dies along with Dillon, Lee and Redding in my 1050. They all work fine.
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Over the years, I have tested bullets from 135 gr to 220 gr and many different powders from WSF to #9.
I've settled on 180 gr (coated lead, Star JHP or Xtreme HP's) loaded with 10.4 gr of Blue Dot for practice. This is by far the most accurate load tested and I would not be afraid to use it for hunting when topped with Hornadys XTP. This load typically chronographs around 1150-1200 f.p.s. depending on barrel length, with the only real drawback being the muzzle flash.
My hunting load is:
New Starline brass
Hornady 180 gr XTP
14.4 gr Accurate #9
CCI #350 LPM primer
OAL 1.250
This load typically Chronographs in the low 1200 f.p.s. range and is almost as accurate as the Blue Dot load without the massive muzzle flash. However, it is a compressed load and I had to make a custom seater plug to seat the bullet without deforming it.
Other powders to consider are:
800X Must be hand weighed but good velocity & accuracy
Longshot Great velocity (over 1300 f.p.s. at max loads) but poor accuracy.
Before starting any of your testing, I would strongly recommend getting a full length guide rod from Loan Wolf and upping your recoil spring weight to 20-24 pounds to help tame any premature unlocking of the slide & barrel.
Hope this helps.
Jeff
Thanks Jeff. This is great info. I did order a 20lb recoil spring after watching Mrgunsngear on YouTube.
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I am new to reloading 10mm. I currently load 5.56, 45ACP and 9mm and I am now getting ready to load 10mm for my converted Glock 21. What bullets do you buy for the range and hunting? What powder do you suggest?
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Appreciate the insight folks, thank you.
Where are you located? I may be interested.
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I have mixed them and haven’t had a problem.
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this might sound like a drag, but when I got my Mk7 for my 1050 I started processing brass on it's own, then wet washing the lube off, drying, and then loading. That way I didn't have lube on the cases during loading. my ammo comes out looking like new, and no more dirty hands after shooting a few hundred.
I do the same thing. I process all brass and keep the brass in a 5 Gallon Home Depot bucket with lid.
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Advice at getting started in these difficult times!
in General Reloading
Posted
I have used both an LNL Ammo Plant and a Dillon 1050. I will tell you that the Dillon press is a step above the LNL. You do pay a lot more for the Dillon, but it is worth it. The Dillon is a press that can run round after round without any hiccups. I can’t say I had the same luck with the LNL.
I had issues with the case feeder(brass getting stuck in the tube at the top and brass falling off of the press before being inserted into the shell plates because it is unsupported). I also had an issue with the bullet feeder (it keeps running and does not have a shut off unless you have the rifle feeder). I am not sure if they have updated that. Dillon doesn’t actually make one so I guess I can’t compare the two in this aspect because I have the Mr. Bullet Feeder.
I did like the LNL Die System because of the quick changeover and cheaper price for caliber changeover. However, I purchased toolheads from Calguns cheap so I like switching the toolhead with everything dialed in including the powder measures.
Everybody will have their own story of their experience with the two presses. It all depends on the user.
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