DesertEagleCal50
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Posts posted by DesertEagleCal50
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The clutch is slipping, the engine runs?
If so, tighten the screws in the middle in short steps until the plate turns. -
I hava Hornady LNL AP and startet from scretch with 650 and Mark 7. Took me a view Weeks including new (Rev 2) parts from Dillon, all the after market bearings staff and now I do not use my arm for a press any more. The mashine runs and I do other things. I changed one thing to get the powder cop and a seating and seperate crimping die running. Use the Hornady Powder Dropper on Stage 1, Powder Cop on Stage 2 that stops the Mark, so I have a good feeling of non wrong bullets. With the Mr. Bullet Feeder it is nearly perfect running, but some times the bullets are upside down or do not dropp, but the spilled powder in the basket is not a big deal.
Maintenance is also very easy, I do it after every 100kg deprimed brass, thats all.
Priming is one necessary step before loading until I use the Stage 1 for the Powder Dropper, but I just fill in the 100 primers in the tube with the Hornady 1911 until the mashine needs them.
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650 is running fine after some tuning on my mark7. Cannt tell you anything about 1050, but speed is not the point. Warranty does matter, got several replacement parts until now.
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If you want to buy once, Redding would be the choice.
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Hi
last post didn't show up here ?? OK, again.
I tumble with the Federal Tumbler 3/4 full of brass(about 10-12kg). 1-3 x 25g Citric acid depending on the dirt also the shot of Pril dish soap.
2-3x 25g is needed to get the shine I want in the first attempt.
1x25g only for the second attempt.
Now the experiments with the Wash&Wax because without they loose their shine and get marks (water, Lime).
Seams that it is not important if the Wash&Wax is in the Tumbler with the acid, or the brass gets cleand and seperated in the Federal Media Separator with Wash&Wax there.
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Found a Wash&Wax Bottle at the car staff. Tumbler is running ! Thx
- 1. attempt - only wash&wax = not glaze at all, no shine
- 2. attempt - wash&wax and citric acid = perfect shine , before drying and ageing
- 3. attempt - citric acid, after cleaning in water with wash&wax = perfect shine, before drying and ageing
# differences in 2. and 3. attempt will be shown in the next days.
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Hi
I already did. But more not less, have to try les thx!
Possible to use Shine & Wax ?
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Hi
Thx, I thought of the towel dry a view minutes before and just did it, test without the dryer now is running.
The Wax I think would help a lot, how do you use it. Just a cap into the tumbler with the brass and no citric acid ?
I use the Federal Tumbler and about 3/4 fill in of brass, warm water and 0,5kg steel pins.
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Hi
My refurbished brass gets marks on the surface. What can I do ?
I deprime first and then run the brass in the wet tumbler for hours with a bit Pril Detergent and some citric acid.
After I wash the brass with clean water and dry them in a oven.
The brass gets more and more dark yellow and on the surface marks over all.
I tried baking powed to stop the acid, but that made the surface matt, no shine any more.
Could you tell me what I am doing wrong? THX
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Use it on my 650, works fine.
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Cool things there, need to install my printer. Is it just to download and print or does it need more. Sorry beginner.
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Hi
Extreme Left? I run a Mark 7 with Dillon 650, the settings is a value starting from 1.
But I do not have a problem with the Index.
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There should be a setting to slow down the upstroke but not reducing the over all speed.
The Mark 7 machine could run on 1800 rounds, but this reduces the speed to 900, if the Mark could reduce it to 900 speed at the end of the upstroke, the rest could run with the speed of 1800.
Is anyone of Mark around here?
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Hi, new video. Even I cannot see the powder spill but after 10 rounds this is the result. Only comes from the powder cop.
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Hi Shmella
I will try my best to bring up a video, but actually no time for that.
Will come back!
Thx
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Thx. Danke.
Hope the new Links works better.
The powder cop is clean, no powder on the cop itselve, thinking of the airflow during getting into the case. As faster the Mark 7 work, as mor powder is on the shellplate and I can see the powder fly.
Hoffe dieser Link funktioniert.
Es ist die Geschwindigkeit mit der der Powder Cop, also diese Kupferstange in die Hülse eintaucht.
Mir scheint dass es durch eine Luftströmung dazu kommt, an der Kupferstange bleibt nichts zurück (mit Bremsenreiniger entfettet).
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Hello@All
Have a problem I cant solve.
Hope for your help.
Thx
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650 Case Feeder Slide and Cam Issues
in Dillon Precision Reloading Equipment
Posted · Edited by DesertEagleCal50
Hi Everybody,
my 650 runs on a Mark7 and does a lot. Parts wear out and the machine stops running smooth.
A big problem is the fast wear out of the aluminum feeder arm and I would like to ask the community if somebody solved the problem.
My case feed body is Version B and the mount on the press to high, the slider Cam does not fully apply the alu feeder.
Maybe with a new construction (3D) , new Cam or something else.
Thinking of reducing the power of the spring, but do I run into other issues then, that the arm cannot slide back to fill in the next case....
Other thougt is to design a complete other system. An pestle is driven mechanical by the platform arm (that fits the Feeder Slide) and pushes a case forward to the drop down hole.
Mount designed and printed in 3D to fit the caliber conversion parts for different case sizes.
THX
the Mark7 is on full upstroke, the alu feed is not pushed good enough
it is not possible to mount the Mark7 drive on an alternative position to get more upstroke
one solution could be to lower the casefeed body by drilling alternative mounting holes...