barneyb
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Posts posted by barneyb
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I use 3.9 gr of Titegroup with a 124 grn MG @1.16" out of a 5" KKM barrel to get a PF of 132.8.
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My 9mm open major started life as a 9L. It currently has a Storm Lake barrel with a Carver 4 port comp and an Apex FSS trigger. I also had two poppel holes drilled in the barrel with a slot cut in the top of the slide. I couldn't see/feel much difference with the poppel holes and I wouldn't do it again.
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Will the newer style sear block fit in a gun that originally had the older style in it?
Yes. I bought 3 of the newer sear blocks to upgrade 3 of my M&Ps that had the older style 1/16" spring and plunger. worked fine.
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Doesn't that 7lb spring make for a heavy trigger?
I am sure it does increase slightly, but I didn't even notice the extra weight b/c I was so happy that it went "bang". Currently I have a factory trigger spring, FSS sear spring, 11lb recoil spring & 7lb striker spring. I may change to a heavier recoil spring if I run into any issues. I'll be shoooting many rounds soon as I have a class near end of this month.
Wow! I'm surprised this even stays in battery. Mine is set up with competition striker spring and 13 lb recoil spring. I've never tried an 11 lb one, but might have to try it.
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So it's ok to use the extra power with 17rd mag?
You might want/need to cut off a coil or two if you're not using an extended basepad.
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Brownells has extra power mag springs available for the M&P.
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Anyone have any reports on some 69gr SMKs through it?
Nick
I get a 1" group with my NC barrel and 69gr Stillwood Ammo
One of Jeremy's shooters built a gun at the beginning of last year that shot one hole @ 100 and very close to 1/2" @ 200 with his 69 SMK reloads. I'm not sure what his exact load was but I know it was with Varget.
It shot so well @ 100 that I thought he only hit the paper once while looking through the spotting scope.
That's what I was hoping to hear. I am using AA2230 w/ my 55 FMJs and need to work up a load on my 69g SMKs. I hope I can achieve what you have mentioned above w/ my AA2230, if not, I'll try to find some varget and work something up with that. Thanks for the info.
Let us know what kind of load you work up with the AA2230 and 69g SMKs. I also use 2230 with 55 FMJs but haven't tried to use it with the 69s.
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I have a Storm Lake that I purchased from Bobby Carver (http://www.bb-enterprise.biz/index2.ivnu).%C2'> I see that they are now using KKM barrels though. The barrels Bobby carries are cut to fit his comps.
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"Ok, naysayers.The proof is in the picture.
On left is well used full size body. On right is newer Compact mag. Below the mags I have swapped the base pads. I assembled the one on the left, inserted it into my Comact and acts like a mag."
I stand corrected. Good Job
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The full size 10 round that I have is about full inch longer than a compact 10 rounder. It has a 1+" long base pad/restrictor on it. It doesn't appear that the mag body itself could be modified to take a standard basepad.
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It's a shotgun, grip it and rip it.
I hope that will work better with a shotgun than it does when I try to play golf.
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Thanks for the warning. Looks like I need to do some testing before I take it to a match.
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I just installed Taran Tactical hammer and trigger springs in my VM. It did reduce the pull weight from 6 1/2 lbs to just under 6. I'm not sure what I was expecting but a little more than 1/2 lbs reduction. What are others seeing when installing these springs?
Thanks
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I've seen a number of good prices on package deals in the classified forum. Wish I could justify adding to my small (4) stash of M&Ps.
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I'd like to wish everone on this forum a Merry Christmas. Thank You for providing useful information on this aspect of 3 gun, particularly the insight you've given me on what makes a Versamax run (or not).
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I puchased 2 of the RAMs to install in my FSS competition guns, but only installed one of them and then pulled it out. Although I didn't have any problems with it during the short time it was in, I didn't think it was worth the possibilities of 'dead trigger' issues that some have experienced with the FSS/competition springs/RAM. I also found that using the RAM spring sent with the FSS is lighter than the orignal spring and decreases the feel and 'click' of the RAM.
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I radiused the tip (very little) of the trigger safety rather than removing any material from the frame. If you take too much from either one, it's cheaper to have trigger fixed than replace the frame. I use a competition trigger return spring on both of my competition guns and they have trigger pulls of about 2 1/4 lbs.
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That extra spring is a replacement for the RAM (if you have it installed).
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Hey, Dat, got your email directing me to this thread.
Let me begin by saying that I am not the world’s biggest Smith & Wesson M&P fan. I place a lot of weight, relative to how much regard I have for a particular gun design, on how I’ve seen it perform at matches, and also the feedback from police departments that issue it. I have rarely if ever seen an M&P complete a match without some sort of functional problem, and feedback from police departments has not been great. So to start with, you’re running a gun that doesn’t have a great reputation/track record for reliability, even in totally stock form.
Well, everyone is entitled to their opinion. I have been running a 5" 40 with FSS trigger and competion spring set (2 1/2 lbs.) with a KKM barrel for 2+ years. NO malfunctions! 0!. And, although Fed primers are what I'd like to use, that's not always possible. I've used a variety of small pisol and small rifle with 0 problems.
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Barney - I thought about trying to cut some off of the buttstock too.
How did yours turn out? Any photos?
Any suggestions for me if I try it?
Does the softcell pad grind/sand down just like a rubber pad does?
MickB - you are correct, the one I ordered from Midway is for an 1100 & 870.
Here's a couple of photos of the result. LOP is now 13 1/2". I marked all the way around the butt stock where I wanted to cut and then cut it with a hack saw, following the line all the way around (don't try to cut all the way through the complete buttstock). Make sure to remove the buttpad first so you can determine the max amount to remove (about 3/4") and still retain enough of the buttpad screw holes. You then need to remove material from the buttpad where it inserts into the butt stock. Once it will insert, put the screws in. I put 2 layers of blue painting tape on the butt stock and then sanded the pad to shape with a disk sander. I think I could do a better job of this if I needed to do it again.
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I can't tell for sure, but I don't think those are completely chambering. Try some random samples in both the KKM barrel and compare the same ammo in the factory barrel.
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I wish I had known about this before I shortened my stock. I was able to get about 3/4" off and then dremeling out the inside of the stock and removing material from the recoil pad. I may still try the field butt pad to take off a little more. Yes, I have short arms!
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I worked on mine today. Loads much easier! I'm just afraid I may have taken off a little too much. It looks about like the picture in post 28, so maybe it will work just fine.
Test report to follow.
I may have taken a little too much off mine as well. When I tested it with 3 different brands of ammo, I found that Rem shells wouldn't always 'catch' after the tube had 6 or 7 shells in it. It seemed like I had to push the Remington shells into the tube further. Once they were loaded, they ran fine.
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124 grn MG, 3.9 grn Titegroup @1.55 oal. 1071 fps out of a 5" kkm barrel.
Uhhh! Sorry, should have been 1.155" OAL.
Tungsten guide rod?
in S&W (M&P, etc)
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A little bit of recoil management. The muzzle won't rize as much after the shot and you will be able to get a second (aimed) shot off a little quicker.