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pdxrealtor

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Posts posted by pdxrealtor

  1. Has anyone done a back to back swap of the Apex and Wolff spring kits for J-Frames?

     

    I have the two kits but they are in different revolvers. Both have action jobs, but one has a bit more polish done on the internals. I have about a 3/4 lb heavier pull on the Wolff kit. The Wolff kit I'm using is the 8lb main and 11lb rebound. 

     

     I don't know if the added pull weight is the spring kit or the small variance in internal polishing,. Was hoping someone may have the info to save me the time of opening mine up and swapping. 

     

    Thanks. 

  2. Finally got to the range, after blowing the dust off my revolvers, and shot the l-comp with this hammer in it. ~6 lb pull weight and not one light strike on mixed factory Winchester and federal ammo. About 50 rounds. 

     

    Pretty happy with that. I'm going to clip the spur and then dial it in a bit more. 

     

    I got two pulls in the rotation that are 6oz heavier than the other five. I've tracked it down to the cylinder rubbing the back plate, and thought I had it fixed but I don't. That's another topic. 

     

    Fun stuff.... 

     

    What are the thoughts on cutting the 11lb rebound spring a coil or two on a carry gun? 

  3. I acquired a witness match elite in 10mm and I was going to sell it but when I got the offer I couldn't help but back out of the sale. Something about the gun is just 'nice'. 

    I've got a few CZs including a Rami and SAO 75b. Naturally I feel like with this 10mm Witness match,  I need a little brother. 

    Im not a fan of polymer,  which leaves the compact steel 10mm. It's really calling my name. 

    Is the quality better than years past? What about current magazines? Frame reliability? Anything else? 

     

  4. Another vote for do it yourself. 

    I've done an sp01 full CGW package,  then converted it back.

    Did the same with my rami (no convert back though). 

    Converted both our 75b to SAO. 

    Installed a rail on a 97 BD

    Etc.  Polished all of the internals too. 

    It's fun,  and it's easy if you have the slightest bit of interest and mechanical ability.  

     

  5. The cz custom are not pre-cut. It's so simple though,  cut it diagonal. Done. 

    I second the skate shop idea. You can also get various grits on amazon in the form of exterior wood ramp grip tape. 

  6. On 8/21/2016 at 10:35 PM, Exiledviking said:

    Supposedly due to the pistol being designed to be used with NATO spec ammo which is pretty hot. NATO spec 9 mm is somewhere around +P and below +P+ loads.

    So......  If I like the way my sp01 shoots better than my 75b I could just swap the springs? 

  7. 16 hours ago, Bosshoss said:

    My main gun will run 100% at about 4.5 # but I run it at 5.75-6#.

    I like the resistance on the trigger coming out of recoil for the second shot. At 4.5 pounds my second shot is high. Yes if I shot it that way for a while my timing would change and I would adapt to it.

    The big thing about a sub 5 pound trigger pull is EVERYTHING has to perfect. Primers have to be seated all the way all the time. A slightly bent moonclip and you have a clicker. My gun at just under 6# doesn't care if I miss seating a primer all the way every once in a while. It doesn't care if a moonclip is slightly tweaked. It doesn't care if i get a little powder under the star or the gun gets really dirty.

    I just shot the Indiana 400 last weekend. I shot on staff day and our squad shot all 15 stages in 1 day:wacko:. Just under 500 rounds and I didn't touch the gun. I know I could shoot 2000 or more with out touching it. With the lighter trigger pull I'm sure I would at least clean the cylinder and under the star at least once.

    IMO if the difference in 6# and 5# is that important you probably need to work on your trigger control some.  

    My main gun has 25K thru it and I have had a handful of clickers. One time the hammer stud broke and I shot a couple of matches with it that way and got a few clickers and the other time the sear pin in the forged hammer worked its way out and dragged on the side plate and I got a couple of clickers. It that gun doesn't go bang something is wrong.

    Just running a couple of hundred rounds thru a gun is not a good enough test.

     

    BTW way the original pictures in the first post the bottom blurry one looks like one of my IDPA hammers that I do. Can't  say for sure but I have done quite a few like that for customers. 

    That's the direction I think I'm headed just to be safe. Leaving that bit of material at the front area will certainly add some structural integrity. What kind of 'anything fires' pull weight are you getting with a design like that? 

    I haven't had time to go to the range or make any ammo lately.... so I've yet to fire my hammer pictured in my post. 

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