Heyman2
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Posts posted by Heyman2
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1 hour ago, MemphisMechanic said:
Congratulations Hwansik! Loved the video on YouTube of the clean run on stage 20 with all the long shots.
All Alphas including on partially covered targets at 30+ yards. Just ridiculous.
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After watching my vid in slow motion, I realize I need to get the base of the mag deeper into my palm so that my finger is either closer to the bullet or actually touching it. Maybe this will help eliminate the pause right before insertion.
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27 minutes ago, MemphisMechanic said:
National championship titles have been won with both bullets out and bullets forward. Forward is a more natural motion that's faster to learn. Out lets you stack you mags closer together but still have access. Pick one and practice.... tens of thousands of times.
Regarding hand speed, my local 16 year old Master who is a diehard "dryfire addict" has a 0.95 load that looks like this:
Faster hands (moving comfortably at a speed higher than you can possibly make yourself go) ... and a much, much shorter pause at the magwell. He has almost completely eliminated it, actually.
I'm currently working on my own hand speed, just like you are. The faster you get the new mag up and headed into the bottom of the magwell, the more time you have to align things and still hit your load cleanly in the desired time.
Start with a par time you can barely hit, and slowly inch it down as you improve.
Im also a big fan of ending each session with some "hero or zero" reps once you're warmed up. Go absolutely as fast as you can, and try to learn to clean it up over time.
@MemphisMechanicI literally chuckled as I watch this video. Holy crap, that is fast and something I desire to be able to do. But at this point, if I can get below 1.5 I'll be happy. But yes, eventually my goal is to get closer to the 1 second mark. I'll do my best to work on this every night. I'll also experiment the mag pouch positions as well and see if one works better for me. As always, I appreciate your insight. I've been shooting USPSA for a little over a year. I have about 15 matches under my belt. But I've only recently started noticing improvement since joining this site. It 's been a real eye opener for sure.
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11 minutes ago, MemphisMechanic said:
@Heyman2 before you move past it, keep in mind that while the objective in a bill drill is to shoot all A's... your run with a Charlie isn't a disaster in a match.
Doing the math:
30pts / 2.61 = 11.4943 hit factor
28pts / 2.48 = 11.2903 hit factor
In a match that's far from a disaster - those scores are *really* close. Yes, alphas always beat Charlies. But too many newer minor shooters are so afraid of occasionally dropping a Charlie that they shoot far too slowly and conservatively to win. Don't be afraid to push so hard that you shoot an occasional C. That's how you shoot faster.
On your reload, absolutely fly when trying to snap your weak hand with mag, and the gun with dropped mag, together in front of your chest.
Most of the reload occurs with the weak hand. And that pause at the magwell is about 1/4 second of dead time - it takes dryfire reps to hit the magwell quickly and cleanly.
@MemphisMechanicWOW! I didn't realize both those times would not only equate to a hit factor that high, but that they would be so close to each other. Thank you for showing me that! As for my reload, are you saying that I have the technique down, but that I just need to do everything faster? If that's the case, I'm ahead of where I thought I was at. I know it won't be an easy quick fix to move faster, but I thought I was way behind the curve when I see others doing a 1 second reload. I think I need to set more realistic, incremental goals for myself. What do you think about the way I have my mags set up? Currently, the bullets face out away from my body. After watching myself, I think I may experiment with setting the pouches so that the bullet is facing forward.
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Got to the range yesterday and saw some issues, but also saw saw some improvement. At first, I was torquing the pistol in a way that it was causing the bottom of my palm to lose contact with the grip. I thought this wouldn't matter since the top of my palm of both hands was on the frame very snuggly. But I soon found out, leaving the bottom part of the grip exposed will cause me to milk the grip, which defeats the purpose of a good grip. So I had to readjust, and had better success. But this is still something I'll need to work on.
I shot a clean Bill Drill at 7 yards, hands in surrender at 2.61 which is a best for me. (I'm shooting a Production gun) The fasted overall was 2.48, but it was five A's, and one C that barely missed the perforated line.
I also did 1 shot reload 1 shot drills, and ran into several issues. I shoot a M&P9 Pro. In the past, I could always send the slide home when inserting the mag. However, lately it has become inconsistent and definitely costs me time I can't afford to lose since I'm slow to begin with. This also coincides with the slide not locking back sometimes which I attribute to my grip. (I did test it firing with one hand and it always locked back) So I'm obviously putting downward pressure on the slide stop. How can I avoid this while still maintaining a high, tight grip?
Also, I'd love some critique of my reloads. My fastest one for the day was this one at 2.99, I forget what the actual reload time was, but considering my first shot time is around 1.3, that would put the reload at 1.69. The first thing I notice while watching this video is that it seems my hand is getting to the new mag too slowly. Anyway I can speed this up? Any other issues you guys see? I'm all ears.
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14 minutes ago, Jake Di Vita said:
What happens "naturally" means nothing. I tell most people that if you're doing something athletic and it feels comfortable, it is almost certainly wrong or at least not as good as it could be. The body doesn't just assume it's best positions on it's own. You have to put yourself there and then hold yourself there. It's "natural" for most people to slouch in their chair...does that mean it's good? Of course not.
I think you misunderstood what I was trying to say, which is, the harder you grip your pistol with inward pressure from both hands, so that the part of your palm by the thumb is really torquing in, the elbows will naturally flare out. I didn't mean to say that this is a natural, comfortable position. Just that, they will naturally flare out in relation to the torquing in of both hands on the pistol. I agree that this is not a natural or comfortable thing for the human body to do, but that it is natural in relation to the grip. When I use this grip, I can feel the tension in my shoulders, which certainly is not a comfortable feeling
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1 hour ago, superlifer03 said:
Bent (I call them broke) elbows are essential in being able to crush the grip. Do a simple test. Lock your arms out and build your grip. Take notice how much pressure you can apply to the grip panels. Now break your elbows a 1/2" and see how much pressure you can apply.
Elbows flared or not flared is situational dependent. Are you shooting Open, Limited, or Production? What king of grip strength do you have? Just how big a fella are you?
I agree with you. If you want a vice like grip where you are applying inward pressure with both of your hands, the elbows will naturally bent outwards.
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On 12/7/2016 at 8:36 PM, MemphisMechanic said:
A 13lb ISMI spring on the stock guide rod is by far the most common weight for USPSA use in Production at 130PF.
To get the sights back down more quickly, grip the gun harder. You should be squeezing absolutely as hard as you can without shaking with the support hand while the strong hand is just loose enough not to clamp down on the trigger (trigger freeze) at speed.
Getting your weak hand grip up to par will greatly increase your ability to shoot fast: inside 7 yards you should be able to shoot A's as fast as you can pull the trigger.
On 12/8/2016 at 11:42 AM, MemphisMechanic said:I don't know. I just swapped springs on the factory rod - I am a strong fan of keeping things nearly stock and practicing like mad with the time and money that other guys spend tinkering nonstop.
(Every GM I've met has done sights minor trigger work springs and polishing, then just shot the gun nonstop while the C class guys keep buying widgets to try and get better and don't practice)
Hopefully someone else can chime in - otherwise find out how much the guide rod weighs and check the rule book to see how much weight you can get away with.
Just wanted to let ya know. I took your advice. I experimented with different grips and had an Ah-ha moment. I'm combining lessons I've learned from watching videos from Ron Avery and Bob Vogel. I've watched these videos before, but only recently did their words stick and become clear to me. My grip doesn't look all that different from before, except that it's higher now. So high that the slide is failing to lock back on the last shot because the grip is high and the pressure from my palm is pushing the slide stop in a downwards motion. I can deal with this though. I also realized that the position of my arms and the torquing in starts has to extend all the way from my hands, through my arms, to my shoulder. It's amazing to feel how different this grip feels and how sturdy everything is. I finally understand what it feels like to lock the gun in. I am getting more and more proficient at slapping the shit out of the trigger without moving the gun. I also realized, from Ron Avery, that grip strength and wrist tension are two different things. I think that statement was what made the light bulb go off in my head. Now, I just need enough repetitions so that this becomes automatic, and not something I have to think about. Thanks for your advice Memphis!
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On January 13, 2017 at 7:18 AM, MemphisMechanic said:
For USPSA you want to do the majority of your trigger presses in dryfire as fast an ugly as possible - learning to do that and still come straight back.
Hold the gun out extended. finger in contact but not pressuring trigger. at the buzzer, drop the hammer before the "beep" stops. Makes you pull it fast.
Begin to learn to clamp down on the gun ruthlessly with the weak hand with every dryfire rep you do. More pressure with it than with strong hand isn't natural. That'll take lots of practice
Just wanted to say thanks to you and others for your advice. You guys were right. It was all about my grip. While I haven't used the timer yet I've Ben doing do every couple of nights and working on pulling the trigger through the wall as fast I can while keeping the sights straight. The better grip I have on the gun, the faster I can pull with minimal to no movement in the sights. I previously thought I had issues with pulling straight through the break b/c I have smaller hands, but someone pointed out that had nothing to do with it and that I needed a better grip. Whoever said that, thank you and you were right. Can't wait to see how this translates in live fire.
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On January 13, 2017 at 7:18 AM, MemphisMechanic said:
For USPSA you want to do the majority of your trigger presses in dryfire as fast an ugly as possible - learning to do that and still come straight back.
Hold the gun out extended. finger in contact but not pressuring trigger. at the buzzer, drop the hammer before the "beep" stops. Makes you pull it fast.
Begin to learn to clamp down on the gun ruthlessly with the weak hand with every dryfire rep you do. More pressure with it than with strong hand isn't natural. That'll take lots of practice
I experimented with different grips a couple of nights this past week. Like you suggested, I'm putting more pressure on the gun with my support hand. I'm using a grip so high that my support thumb and the part of the Palm by the thumb are both on the slide itself. I'm also torquing my support hand so that the bottom part of my palm, the part by the pinky, is barely touching the grip while the part of the palm by the thumb is really putting a lot of side pressure on the slide and frame. I'm also torquing in with my right hand in pretty much the same fashion. I found my sights settled faster and I felt like I had more control of the recoil. I had way more runs with all alphas and some really nice fist sized groups as well at ten yards. My splits were slow at 30 splits, and best run at ten yards with all alphas was 2.89. But I feel like I've finally made some progress forward today.
I have to be more consistent with this grip drawing out of a holster, as sometimes I find myself relaxing the grip. One problem I did run into was the slide not locking back on the last round. Did some troubleshooting with help from a friend and realized my grip is so high and tight now, that it's putting pressure on the slide stop and preventing it from locking the slide back.
One other question. Do you guys track your sights through the complete recoil, or do you keep yours eyes on where you want to shoot and then pull the trigger when the sights come to that spot? I feel like I did better when I looked at the spot I wanted to shoot and waited for the sight to come to it, as opposed to tracking the sight the whole time.
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I spent 15 mins DFing last night, trying to perfect pressing the trigger without stopping at the wall. Damn, talk about frustrating. I was able to perform a few presses without moving the sights, but the majority of the time, the sights were all over the place. Left, up, down, up and right. The few that I was able to do correctly, was after I altered my grip a little. I released some pressure from my support hand fingers, and increased pressure on my support hand wrist while also putting more pressure on my support hand palm. I have a long ways to go. It's just so frustrating because I'm used to DFing without moving the sights when I go to the wall, stop, and press. Pressing all the way through the wall is certainly a different skill. But I'm wondering how much I really need to do it like this if I release the trigger only to the reset on subsequent shots.
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55 minutes ago, theWacoKid said:
Nope. This has nothing to do with the size of your hands so forget about that excuse immediately. Every hand size has trouble doing this until they learn it. Some of the best shooters in the world have smaller hands and shorter fingers and some have large hands, it's just not relevant so don't trick yourself into thinking it is. You're just simply not good at it... yet.
Tons of people pick up a guitar and say "my fingers are too fat, I can't hold the strings". That's an initial excuse because those same people become shredders after they forget about making up excuses and get better by practicing.
Thank you for this post!!!! I shall practice my ass off til I can master this type of press as I've "mastered" the taking up the slack press.
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7 minutes ago, jkrispies said:
Pick a tv series you want to watch again and buy all the seasons. Sit in front of the tv and watch it. While watching, practice pulling the trigger. This means, pull the trigger, keep the trigger depressed, cycle the slide, reset, pull, repeat. For hours. And hours. Don't aim, just pull the trigger and watch your show. (FYI, if you're married, do it alone unless you want to risk a divorce.)
My wife actually doesn't mind, but the issue is, my kids bedroom is in direct line of sight from where I would be pointing.
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4 minutes ago, theWacoKid said:
The double tap drill is to help train your muscles and trigger finger and to attempt to speed up your vision. This is NOT how you should shoot at the match, unless you've done it so much that you are to the point that you can visually confirm everything at that pace.
And like you learned, hammer the trigger in dryfire just like you are trying to squirt bullets out of the gun at your brisk live fire pace.
Yep, I think this is what I need help with the most since it's something I've never done before. Issues is I have shorter fingers and it's hard to hammer it without moving the sights. When I prep, I can press the trigger all day long without moving the sighs, but this is a different story and something I'll have to work on. However, it doesn't explain why my second, third, etc shots are also grouping left, unless I'm releasing the trigger past the point of it's reset, which is what I'm probably doing. Man, just when you think you're good, this website shows you how much work you have to do to actually be a good competitive shooter. On a static range, when there is no time constraints, I am more accurate than the majority of people. But add speed to it, like you need in games like USPSA, my accuracy suffers greatly.
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8 minutes ago, theWacoKid said:
Dry fire more. Do the white wall drill a whole lot.
Here's the thing though. When I dry fire, I can press the trigger without the sights moving at all. But this is when I prep the trigger. I think when I was doing the Bill Drill yesterday, b/c I was trying to shoot faster, I wasn't prepping the trigger and just pressed it as soon as I had a good enough sight picture. So when I got home last night, I did more DF without prepping the trigger, and sure enough, my muzzle would move to the left.
8 minutes ago, Hi-Power Jack said:A better grip might help. If you hold the gun more securely, your "slap" won't affect
where the bullets go as much as if you don't hold on tight.
The Bill Drill might help a bit, and I like The Dot Torture Drill.
I was doing the Bill Drill and that's what made me notice my terrible accuracy when trying to push my speed. I'll concentrate on a better grip my next time out. I definitely did notice I wasn't getting consistent grips each and every time out of the holster. I shoot a M&P in Production, and the damn bevertail keeps jamming into my palm when I try to get a high grip from the holster. I definitely need to practice that more.
3 minutes ago, theWacoKid said:I agree. Slapping isn't necessarily the issue. It's fine to slap or hammer the trigger if you don't move the sights.
For live fire Bill Drill is good. I also like the hard double tap drill where you aim at the target then when comfortable pull the trigger twice as fast as you can. Continue to do this and learn the feel of how much weak hand grip it takes to get good hits and stabilize the gun to keep it from dipping and keep it returning on target.
I actually did this with the last mag I had yesterday, concentrating on gripping harder with my support hand. I did notice I was getting my second shot off faster and closer to where the first shot landed. Now, doing this at a match without having to think about it is my next goal.
Thanks for the suggestions so far gents.
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At 10 yards and in, I can hit center A zone hits with about .40-.45 splits. Yes, I know it's slow. When I speed it up to .25ish splits, my grouping shifts left and a little low and fall mostly into the C zone. I'm obviously pressing the trigger harder instead of faster. What drills can I do to press the trigger faster, but not harder? TIA!
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On November 11, 2016 at 10:09 PM, Fatso said:
Gents, a quick update.
I've convinced myself I like running. I'm down 16 lbs and 3 inches. Unfortunately, I developed Achilles tendinitis! Sonovabitch! Thus, endless elliptical sessions and physical therapy are keeping me from losing my mind!
Of all I've done, the biggest piece is DIET.
You guys were right!
Sent from my iPad using TapatalkI should've read all your posts before replying. Awesome job on the wight and inches loss. Sorry you hurt yourself though. But I love that not being able to do all you want exercise wise is driving you crazy! Don't lost that desire while you heal and don't stray from your diet. Eating well and right is just as if not more important than working out.
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On September 14, 2016 at 10:31 AM, Fatso said:
I'm certainly feeling better / more fit already, Which is a pleasant surprise. I'll try to be more patient with the scale!
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkDon't worry about the scale too much. Instead, focus on inches lost. Remember, if you're doing things right, you'll be building muscles. Muscle weighs more than fat. You are probably losing fat, and gaining muscles which is why the scale is not moving yet. Like someone else mentioned, with consistency and time, the scale will start moving and when it does, it'll start to move pretty quickly until you plateau.
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Lots of great suggestions here so far. I'll add my two cents. I'm currently 30 pounds overweight at 38 years old. Four months ago, I was 70 pounds overweight and in serious need of getting my shit together. Like a lot of people, I hate running and going to the gym. It's just so boring to me. My wife found a Group On for Muay Thai classes for me. The first class I took, i vomited twice, but was instantly hooked. It was hard as heck for the first two or three weeks but in three and a half months, I lost 40 pounds by working out 4 days a week at Muay Thai, eating well, and also doing my own modified 20-30 minute work out on one of the two weekend days. During my own workout, I do 5 to 10 push-ups, sprint 100 yards as fast as I can, drop down and do ab work, rest for 30 seconds and repeat. I do this 7 to 10 times depending on how much energy I have. I also do push ups and ab work as much as I can at work. On a busy day I do about 100 of each in a day, and on a slow day I've done close to 500 of each song sets of 25. I don't eat late at night on a regular basis anymore. Every once in a while I'll need a snack and usually just eat some nuts. As someone else mentioned, absolutely no processed food, and no fruit for me as I've cut out ALL sugar. After about a month, this routine went from something that I had to force self to do, to something that I crave. I had to take a three week break recently and started to feel like crap. It's amazing how quickly your body starts to get out of shape from not exercising. I just resumed my workouts this week. The first two days was hard, but by the third day I felt myself getting back into workout shape. The feeling I get after a workout is addicting. Watching my body change is addicting. Feeling so much better than I used to is addicting. I plan to start Crossfit in May and look forward to getting ripped.
Losing weight in theory is actually pretty easy. You just have to eat right, exercise right, drink plenty of water (I drink a gallon a day), and get enough sleep. I also drink 2 to 3 cups of BLACK coffee a day. A cup before a workout is amazing as long as you're dinking enough water to stay hydrated. The hardest part is starting and not quitting. If you can maintain your workout routine consistently for two or three weeks, it starts to become something you crave. For me, it's become a lifestyle change. If I can do it, ANYONE can do it.
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2 minutes ago, MemphisMechanic said:
No it should not. But shooting is an active process...
Within a year of shooting several times a week, you'll begin subconsciously driving the gun back down onto the target. If you watch a GM when his gun goes click, his muzzle dips.
Obviously that's not a flinch from someone who shoots like that.
"Driving the gun" means wrenching it back onto target as fast as possible, without tugging the gun down before the bullet leaves the barrel.
This is the reason an experienced shooter can run his sights fast enough a novice thinks he's just throwing lead. And a novice might need a half second between shots to get the same quality hits. Just shoot your sights when they are visible in the A-zone. That process will speed up on its own as your eyes learn to see faster, as long as your grip does it's part.
Funny you mention that. I saw a video by JJ Racaza, talking about that exact same thing. He talked about how there are two types of driving the gun down. One is mental, which happens prior to the shot being taken, and the other physical, which happens as soon as the shot goes off and the gun starts recoiling. Another question if I may. If I do decided to get a 13 lb ISMI spring, and run it with a non captured tungsten guide rod, will I meet the weight requirement to keep my pistol Production legal?
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Thank you to both of you gentlemen for the wealth of info. I thought I was gripping with me support hand strong enough, but I'll see if I can grip it harder. I just always seem to be watching and waiting for the front sight to come back down, for what seems like forever.
ETA: Running a 13 lb spring shouldn't cause any damage to my frame shooting 130 PF, correct?
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1 hour ago, Rez805 said:
I'm not a gunsmith or anything, but I have dabbled with different spring and load combinations with the Apex Gunsmith fit barrel. One of the first videos I watched regarding this was posted by NicTaylor00 on youtube. You'll see some high-speed (600fps) footage of the different combinations starting around the 3 minute mark.
Hope that helps a bit.
Thank you sir. I actually did come across this video last night. If I may ask, what springs did you use with your gunsmith fit barrel and did you have any cycling issues? Do you have any other apex parts as well? I should've mentioned yesterday, I also have Apex's lighter striker spring and sear spring.
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I keep reading conflicted schools of thoughts on different recoil spring weights and what a lighter spring does as opposed to a heavier spring. I've noticed lately that my front sight is not coming back down to the target as fast as I would like. Would I be correct in assuming a lighter spring will bring the front sight back down quicker? Please educate me.
I'm running a M&P9 Pro with a gunsmith fit Apex barrel that is fit tight with the stock recoil spring assembly. So I obviously need to think about whether a different spring would start causing cycling issues. I am
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On 11/27/2016 at 8:39 AM, RH45 said:
I don't know how well it shows up, but, here is a picture of the "scuff" on the barrel.
I don't know if others have had this, in the beginning, or, if I need to have something done about it.
Thanks!
Mind has the same exact "scuff" mark. I don't think there's any need to do anything about it.
Pre-Match Diet
in Mental Conditioning
Posted
^This.... The way you eat should be a lifestyle, not something you do just before matches.