Bullets
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Posts posted by Bullets
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11 hours ago, IDescribe said:
Okay, Bullet, instead of trying to convince you that your gauge is unnecessary, here's an attempt to help you conceptualize the problem you're having:
Think of a cross-section of a barrel. From the chamber end, the cut reflects the diameter of the case, plus whatever extra few thousandths to allow the case to pass into the chamber freely and headspace at the casemouth on the chamber's headspacing step. The inner diameter of the chamber before the headspacing step is about .381. Then, the headspacing step shrinks the inner diameter to around .361, tight enough to serve as a step for the case mouth, but big enough to accomodate whatever diameter bullet you are using. That .361 section of bore (which we often call the leade, throat, or free-bore) will extend a very short distance and narrow a little itself to the point where the rifling begins, which then shrinks the inner diameter of the bore down to about .354, smaller than the bullet to be used. The length of the leade/throat and the degree to which it narrows is what causes different bullets to have different max OALs in different pistols since THAT is what controls how far away the rifling is from the case mouth when the pistol is fully in battery.That's a barrel. In a case gauge, the gauge needs only to reflect what's going on inside the barrel in terms of inner diameter up to the beginning of the leade/throat. There is NO REASON for a case gauge to narrow the interior diameter again to reflect the rifling because different pistol manufacturers have leades/throats of different lengths. Some European manufacturers, like CZ, Tanfoglio, Walther (in some of their pistols), and the Croat manufacturer of the XD are probably the most common seen here in the U.S. who cut "short" throats. In my experience, a more common "long" leade/throat length seems to be .03-.05 longer than the short ones, again, in terms of my own experience. I make no claims to know the specific design specs of various manufacturers. Then you have some 1911 and 2011 barrels where the leades are extra long for the express purpose of accommodating OALs longer than the SAAMI max OAL of 1.169 for 9mm Luger.
NOW, if what you have described about your problem is accurate, it suggest that your case gauge has narrowed the bore diameter past the throat/leade to reflect the rifling. This might cause no problems at all with normal long or short throated 9mm pistols. But if your 1911 barrel is cut for you to load longer than 1.169, that would mean that your barrel's leade is longer than standard for 9mm, and that MIGHT be the reason your case gauge is stopping that bullet before your barrel is.
I can't be sure that's the case. I don't use case gauges. And I don't have access to your case gauge. I don't have access to your pistol. I don't have access to your ammo. So this is just educated speculation, but IF that is what is going on, you will NEVER be able to load that bullet as long as what the pistol will allow and get those same cartridges to pass your case gauge. Your case gauge would simply be incompatible with that pistol and that bullet in that regard.
Good luck.
Sorry man. Not even trying to read all of that. Wasn't looking for reloading lessons from all of these people. I've got that down pat. I literally asked what length people were loading these bullets to and the forum police jumped in trying to teach me something.
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9 hours ago, IDescribe said:
That's still true if you use a case gauge, so how is that relevant?
If you have ammo that fits in the case gauge and not in your barrel than you have an issue.
18 minutes ago, superdude said:Yes, it's okay to shoot ammo that fits in the Glock, in the Glock. It does not mean it will fit in another barrel since they might have different dimensions.
It might also be true that the ammo will fit in the case gauge but not fit in a barrel since they might have different dimensions, too.
Yes but make sure you inspect it closely. Wouldnt recommend using a glock barrel though. Chances are a glock barrel won't pick up a split case like a case gauge would. Not that a case gauge would catch it everytime either.
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On 6/8/2017 at 7:18 PM, superdude said:
People obsess with case gauges. They're handy, but they're not the same as your barrel's chamber. The only other advice is to put the case gauge in the drawer, or use it for a christmas decoration on your christmas tree.
The best reloading device for the plunk test is your pistol’s barrel because that’s what you’ll be shooting your ammunition from, not the case gauge.
I disagree. Many of us load ammo for multiple guns. Ammo that might fit in one barrel might not fit in another. Many times over the years the case gauge has found problems I missed. Found many split cases at the case gauge. I started out reloading with your mentality but just caused problem later on. So if I shoot a glock and my ammo fits in the glock chamber it's ok to shoot? Lol
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2 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said:
Buy a different case gauge. Your barrel is the ACTUAL guide and the only thing that truly matters when it comes to how reliable your ammo is. The gauge is just a convenient quasi-accurate substitute for testing ammo since taking your gun apart to chamber-check is annoying.
Load ammo long enough it won't drop into your chamber, then slowly shorten it until it drops into the barrel *and* spins freely.
Shorten that length about .005" as your starting length, and go shoot it over a chrono, and check it for accuracy @ 25yd.
You'll end up with a shockbottle 100rd case gauge eventually. Might as well get it now. It's just plain preposterously convenient compared to doing them one at a time, plus they like long ammo just fine.
I'd hate to buy another gauge. I use the 50 hole egw. The shockbottle that much better? Never had an issue like this until now. I had been using the precision delta round nose ammo for a very long time. Wasn't a problem with them. Wanted to try the hollowpoints though
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2 hours ago, himurax13 said:
You will need to do a plunk test on your barrel to find the max OAL that you can utilize.
Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk
2 hours ago, superdude said:^^ THIS ^^
Your barrel will determine the proper OAL.
Maybe I worded it wrong but at the end of my post I stated that the chamber accepts them longer then the case gauge. They plunk at a longer oal in the chamber then in the case gauge. Don't feel comfortable not case guaging all of my ammo so that's why I was curious what other people are loading to.
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What is everyone loading 115 grain Precision Delta hollow points too for a 2011 open gun? 1.105 seems to be about the longest I can make them and still have them pass case gauge. The chamber accept them longer but not the case gauge.
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8 hours ago, mike4045 said:
I prefer 320 for all loads but I ran out and about 32 pounds of titegroup. I need to work up a load with it.
4.6gr titegroup with a plated 180 1.135. 171 power factor
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14 hours ago, Tubguy said:
I'm working up a 9mm major load for shooting open. I'm using Hornady 115 grain bullets. I'm looking for a recipe for a starting point.
using CFE powder.
Thanks
Mike
I use 6.8 with 125gr coated. 1.155.
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I would stay clear of sti since all they make now is the dvc. Lots of people have comps or slides cracking with the dvc. Plus for the price of the dvc I think the ck is a nicer gun. Only way I would go sti is if you can find a trubor or match master. Good luck with that though.
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I have a few 10rd mags and they look nothing like that. Mine have deep grooves running top to bottom. It basically just makes it a single stack mag that fits into the double stack grip. I'm wondering if someone modified that magazine to only accept 10 rounds. I think the state's that have magazine limitations people modify high capacity mags to make them legal. Pretty sure the laws say that the mag can't be able to go back to a high capacity magazine. So basically they have to be modified in a way that you would destroy the magazine if you tried to make it a high capacity again. I'm wondering if that's why those slits are cut in it.
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For 200s you are probably gonna be around 4.0 - 4.1 of n320 depending on length
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4.5 n320 with 180 bbi works well for me. I have to load them short though for my gun. 1.120. 170pf
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15 minutes ago, Snowb1rd said:
Sizing up the OAL with only one round in the bullet seater position gave me consistent 1.140" OAL. However when running the press in full progressive mode, the OAL jumps all over the place giving me that variance. A short run of 20 consistently produced an OAL of 1.149". What gives? I assume that the press isnt fully pressing down on the boolit when all stations are running
The shell plate flexes when all stations are running. I would plunk test that. 1.149 sounds long for a shadow. My 147 blue bullets I have to load at 1.120 in order for them not to hit the rifling in my shadow. Think they say a variance within .005 is acceptable.
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11 hours ago, Flatland Shooter said:
My match load is 3.0 gr N320 under 147 gr plated RN bullet. Pour that out into your scales and its just not much powder. Its a 132 PF load.
So far I've not had the nerve to go any lower and do not see a reason to. When reloading I do a visual check on EVERY case to assure no double charges. Since I'm not into speed reloading, all is good.
Bill
What's your oal? What gun are you shooting that out of? I can't see that load making a 132pf
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N320
Cfe pistol
Titegroup
In that order
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20 hours ago, Broski said:
Need some help deciding where to start on my reloading journey. This will be for my g17 open gun that has been running minor pf. Gimme some recommendations for components guys.
I would stay away from coated bullets if you are just getting started. They are a little trickier to load. Jacketed or plated are much more forgiving. Plus if you have a compensator on the gun the coated lead bullets will lead up the compensator. For starting out I would look for a much more forgiving powder than titegroup as well. Titegroup is a very hot powder. If your have the slightest bit of mistake in powder charge it could be catastrophic. Are you shooting minor or major with it? I would consider trying a powder like cfe pistol or autocomp. They are much slower burning so they will feed the compensator better and also be much more forgiving. As for primers I'd look for federals. Glocks with lightened striker springs hate heavy primers. Federals are near impossible to find so maybe give Winchester a try.
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2 hours ago, DukeEB said:
I shoot xtreme 115's at 1175 fps (mostly in idpa). I shot some 147 with titegroup through the same gun, and I couldn't tell any difference in recoil. But it was a dan Wesson PM9, which is heavier than the glock I think. No issues with knocking down steel, and recoil is very manageable.
What velocity were the 147? Generally the heavier bullets are softer recoil at the same power factor. If you didn't notice a difference then I'm guessing the 147 load was a higher power factor than the 115
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16 hours ago, Hi-Power Jack said:
I can't imagine 115's being more accurate than the MG JHP 124's I've been using the past few years
The HAP's are supposed to be very accurate ...
But, you might want to try PD's for less than $90/1,000. (I'm going to ... )
Pd are excellent. Now cheaper than extreme and way way better.
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Blue bullets I like the best and they are one of the cheapest
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For uspsa you would be in limited division or open depending on how you set czechmate up. For that I would recommend a racemaster holster. You would just need to slightly modify the sp01 version. It's easy to do.
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Lots of info on this forum for that combo. Since you are so vague in your question you would be better off using search bar
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On 3/12/2017 at 7:32 PM, mastergunner said:
I am shooting USPSA using my S&W M&P 40. I have shot 180 gr bullets but thought if I went to a 155gr bullet I would have less recoil. I am using CFE Pistol powder and would like to get some help on a real lite load for a 155gr bullet. Is there such a thing or do I have to go back to a heavier bullet. I also have Win 231 powder that I could use if necessary. Thanks for the help.
I would use the w231 over the cfe if you are trying to soften up the recoil. Heavier bullets is the way to go for softer shooting too. I would also go with a coated bullet if I were you. It will require less powder to make power factor. That will help soften the recoil too.
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My 2011s won't cycle anything lower than 4gr with a 115gr bullet reliably. I run 8lb Springs in 2 of them and 7lb spring in the other. 1.155 even at 4gr the brass is just dropping at my feet.4.2 seems to run ok
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59 minutes ago, RickT said:
By shocked I assume you're referring to both loads. We run 8 lb. recoil springs and 19 lb. main springs in our SA 9mm 1911s. they are very well broken in. the loads will also cycle with a 9 lb. spring.
What oal?
115gr precision delta hp col
in 9mm/38 Caliber
Posted
Best Info posted yet. Thanks buddy. That make a me feel better. Must be the shape of the bullet