shaun1826
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Posts posted by shaun1826
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You might also take a look at the Leupold VX-6 with firedot BDC. The dot is green and not as bright as the Razor, but I have found it bright enough and extremely light. Very clear glass and you can save a bit of coin over the Razor.
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When I first got my A5, I tested the Fiochhi 7/8 ounce low recoil slugs and it wouldn't cycle them. The Federal Trueball 1350 ft/s Roxymajor recommended to me have been running great. I haven't retested the Fiochhi to see if they will work now that the gun is broken in though.
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On 11/4/2016 at 7:11 AM, TRUBL said:
This one fits my SBE with a 12 round tube and my son's M1 with a 12 round tube........with like .125" to spare
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/939162977/midwayusa-heavy-duty-shotgun-case
Thank you for posting this. I have looked everywhere locally for a longer shotgun case and no one has them. Will be ordering one of these the next time I have a Midway order. If midway would lower there shipping rates I would order now.
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I think this is where using a timer in practice is very important. Set up 3-5 targets and shoot 3 strings with 2 rounds each at your normal "accurate speed". Take the average time (your par time) and then shoot the targets again with the goal in mind to push yourself to go faster and reducing your time by 1-2 seconds. Once you reach this goal with reasonable accuracy, shoot them until you can reduce your time by another second.
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On 12/4/2016 at 6:32 PM, joerenew said:
I am having a hard time switching from night sights to fiber any tips?
Most night sights I have used always have a larger front sight wheras fiber optic front sights are smaller diameter. The fiber makes precision shots easier, it will just take using them some more to get use to picking up the smaller fiber front if you've always shot big front night sights.
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I thought I would give some feedback on the SLR Helix 13.7 Keymod, since I got it in today and couldn't find much in way of a review on it. So if others are debating this rail, hopefully this will help.
First, it is absolutely beautiful and extremely light! The machine work and finish on it are top notch. There are no sharp edges on the rail, unless you count the corners of the picatinny.
You are NOT going to be sticking your fingers through the holes in the rail unless you have very small fingers. I wear a Large glove size, but even if you were small or medium, I think you would have to be intentionally trying to get your fingers through the holes. For reference, the diameter of the keymod hole is the same width as the vertical rectangular slots. And if your using a C clamp type grip, your fingers are angled to the vertical slots a little anyway.
The rail is quite comfortable. I read that some people thought it was cheese grater like. I can kind of see what they meant by it, but it is not at all uncomfortable. In fact, I would compare it to more like stippling. As you grip the rail, your skin molds into the slots in the rail, but it feels quite comfortable as there are no sharp edges. I really think this will be an advantage, especially when it is really hot and your hands are sweating. As your skin pokes into the holes in the rail, it helps your grip alot.
Time will tell if this rail will be durable enough for 3 gun, but my initial impression is that it will be fine. The end of your muzzle device and barrel should be taking the brunt of barrel dumps.
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I have small hands, for reference would fit in a Men's size small. I have a Helix there are no rough edges, even on the small parts of picatinny rail. Everything is very smooth. I could poke my pinky through if I tried, I don't expect that to happen while shooting, and for most people with average sized hands it would be completely impossible. Hope that helps.
Thanks. This seals the deal for me.
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I really like the weight and looks of this handguard, but am having trouble finding many people that have had hands on experience with it or many reviews written on it. If anyone has used this specific handguard, how does it feel on the hands? Is it overly rough or the holes to large allowing you fingers to poke inside? I'm looking at the 13.7" to put cover a 16" barrel.
Thanks for any help!
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You may want to consider a gas block with set screws. The clamp on block will end up contacting the inside of a rail with a small ID. I had it happen with a NSR every time I shot from a barricade and pushed into the rifle.
The barrel I'm using is as Stretch 16 cerakoted barrel. A clamp on gas block is a must with this barrel without scratching it all up. I've looked at the MI lightweight hanguards, but they don't make a 13-13.5 inch option that I'm aware of. I think the 15 inch is a little long for a 16 inch barrel and the 12 inch version is a little to short.
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I'm using a Eotech EXPS2-0 in the Factory mount.
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I shoot steel challenge with my MPX. 25 yard zero works great from 7-50 yards.
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I have all my parts on order for my 3 gun build and have narrowed my handguard selection down to the following options. I wear large size gloves to give you an idea of hand size. I really like the SLR Helix, but am concerned about it having to many holes and possible sharp edges my fingers might get into. Is it very easy to get your fingers stuck into any of these or any that are discomfortable to use? If you have another handguard recommendation please feel free to. This will be used on a 16 inch barrel with SLR - 7 clamp on gas block. Thanks!
SLR Ion Ultralite Mlok 13.7 inch - 10.3 oz - 1.35 ID
SLR Helix Mlok 13.7 inch - 7.9 oz - 1.35 ID
SLR Solo Ultralite Mlok 13.7 inch - 9.7 oz - 1.30 ID
Noveske NSR Keymod 13.5 inch - 11.0 oz - 1.35 ID
BCM KMR 13 inch keymod - 7.7 oz - 1.30 ID
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I've been shooting ruger rimfire for about 3 years. 10/22 and M and P 15-22 are neck in neck. Just shoot whichever you prefer.
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I cant directly answer your question, but since know one has responded. I have a Gen 1 MPX and had Sig send me a 2nd gen handle since the Gen 1 was banging the back of my reciever so bad. It didn't totally eliminate it, but it helped Alot. It seems to be made with tighter tolerances so it doesnt tilt so bad when pulled out.
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Regarding your barrel choice between the 3 versions of the Stretch-16, accuracy will be the same across all versions, fluted version will be slightly lighter (3 ounces lighter). Other than that it would be your preference of color/coating and if you want melonite coating. The stretch-16 does not require an adjustable gas block and you will receive lots of opinions on whether or not they are necessary, but in my humble opinion the gas system really shines if you can tune down the gas.
Regarding JP silent capture spring, I ran one of those for the past 2 years with my 3-gun rifles. Flawlessly, no malfunctions, but it is heavy and the extra spring pak is unnecessary. This year I changed my buffer system to a JP extra power tuned spring with the TACCOM light weight buffer system, which is MUCH cheaper as a whole system and lighter as well, and I am happy I made the swap. Just something to think about. Otherwise my operating system on my rifles is exactly like yours.
I think I've settled on the Melonited Stretch 16 as the melonite seems to offer some benefits over the cerakote. Is there any reason to not go with the Fluted option in order to save 3 ounces?
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I really like the look of those SOLO Handguards, particularly the SOLO Ultra Lite Hanguard-mlok. It looks like everything I'm looking for....flat bottom, very light at 10oz, doesn't have a picatinny rail all the way down the top. Thanks for the heads up on it.
Careful with the inner diameter on those rails. Several of us ran those for a season and the SLR gas blocks were contacting the inside of the rails rendering them non-free floating. I switched to a different rail system because of this.
Bullitt, do you have a hanguard that is similiar that you would recommend? Or is there an adjustable low profile gas block that would work with the SOLO?
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I really like the look of those SOLO Handguards, particularly the SOLO Ultra Lite Hanguard-mlok. It looks like everything I'm looking for....flat bottom, very light at 10oz, doesn't have a picatinny rail all the way down the top. Thanks for the heads up on it.
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This will be my first 3 gun rifle build. I've assembled the following list of parts. I'd like to hear from some experienced 3 gun shooters on my selections. If you have any recommendations or suggestions on things to change or want to fill in the blanks on some of the parts feel free to do so, especially if one of the 3 barrel choices I have would be better than the others. The clubs that I shoot have a max distance of 550 yards and I will be getting a 1-6 or 1-8 to go on the rifle. Thanks!
Lower Parts:
Forged or Billet Lower Receiver? – Spikes Tactical Crusader Lower (forged) or Black Rain Ordnance (billet) – already have either
Trigger – SD3G – already have
Luth-AR Skullaton Fixed stock or Magpul MOE Rifle stock
Buffer tube – _________ Brand?
Lower Parts kit- ________ Brand?
Magpul Grip
Upper Parts:
Vltor Mur 1S upper (deflector shield only) – already have
16” Barrel - Stretch 16 Fluted Melonite, Stretch 16 Melonite or Stretch 16 Phantom Precision Barrel?
Gas Block? Need adjustable? The barrel can come with a SST Premier .750 Low profile gas block(non adjustable), gas tube and roll pin
JP low mass BCG
JP silent captured spring standard version with extra springs
_________Hand Guard? Looking for a flat bottom one to help make barricade shooting easier.
Raptor AXTS charging handle
Seekins ATC compensator
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I tried Fiocchi 7/8 ounce low recoil, Remington Managed recoil, and Remington Full powered Slugger this past weekend.
The Slugger was the only one that cycled with no problem. But was 8 inches high at 50 yards. I only had 2 of these so didnt test at 100 yards.
Fiocchi was the most accurate. 2 inches high at 50, 2 inches low at 100. It however wouldnt eject fully out of the chamber and I had to manually cycle the next round.
Remington Managed recoil was 4 inch low and 3 inches right at 50 and 18 inches low at 100 yards. Had to manually cycle 2 of the 3 rounds I shot with this one.
My gun only has 100 shells or so through it so I'm hoping that once it gets broken in and I lube it good it will cycle the Fiocchi since it is so accurrate.
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I can't find any reduced recoil slugs locally so I'm going to have to order some. Ive heard good things about Fiocci 1 oz and 7/8 oz reduced recoil as well as Remington Managed recoil slugs. The Fiocchi are a bit cheaper than the Remington, but I've read a couple people say they didn't cycle well in the A5. I would just order a few boxes of each, but can't find a seller that has both in stock and hate to pay 2 shipping charges. Anyone shoot both through the A5? If so is one better than the other, or a third alternate I haven't mentioned? Thanks!
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I appreciate all the feedback. Just wanted to say I picked up my A5 a couple days ago and look forward to shooting it this weekend.
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I'm looking to buy shell holders for 3 gun shotgun. Anyone have experience with these and which setups do you use?Pros/cons of them?
Thanks,
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I really appreciate all the responses. I've shouldered both, and I give a slight preference to the A5. I think that is the way I'm going unless someone points out some reason I shouldn't. I've only shot the M2, but I figure they shoot about the same since they are both inertia guns.
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Looking to buy my first 3 gun shotgun. I've handled both and don't have a strong preference to the feel of one over the other, but would give a slight edge to the A5. Did a search and read through all the posts I could find, but didn't see a whole lot of comparison between the two. Can anyone with experience with both compare reliability, weakpoints, parts made better on one versus the other, etc.? It sounds like the autoload feature of the A5 is a definate plus. Any input would be much appreciated.
Speed Steel - Make sure your gun is reliable!
in Match Screw-ups
Posted
I've gotten to where I use a wire brush to clean off the feed ramp and breech face area between stages to clear off the fouling material, then wipe with a rag. This seems to help with feeding reliability.