gpp
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Posts posted by gpp
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11 minutes ago, mike NM said:
If your used to a 1911/2011, it takes a bit to get used to the grip angle change as the dot will generally be higher... Don't worry, you will get used to it.
I was curious about that. Thanks
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8 minutes ago, racerba said:
Power factor floor for USPSA is 125. G17L is not approved for Carry Optics...
If you want to use it for competition...I would go with the G34...and if you want to use the frame to put in something like a Mech Tech...the 34 frame would work. I don't know of any mahufacturere making a rifle for the G19 frame.I like the AR frame based PCC with the glock mags. That's what put the idea of trying a glock out in my head.
22 minutes ago, 9x45 said:The G34 or G17 (G17L would also work, but harder to come by) with a slide mounted dot (carry optics).
So, assuming either is equally easy to get... if I am just stripping the frame and using replacement trigger/slide/etc components would one be preferred over the other? Just looked at the dimensions on the Glock website and they look pretty similar but the 17 is apparently "Gen 5" and the 34 is "Gen 4"
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Which Glock model to upgrade?
Will probably only shoot steel and possibly double as 3gun pcc pistol so I can reduce what all goes on my belt. So I haven't decided exactly how I'm going to configure it but I might just set it up for carry optics because that sounds fun. Either way I will use a dot... Just haven't decided on slide ride or frame mount and comp. Really after typing this out it sounds like I'm just looking for a reason to toy with one but that's besides the point...
Load will be tuned for the pcc over the pistol if that matters? I'm not familiar with shooting a Glock but from what I gather it's a choice between g19 and g34? What's your favorite?
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Thanks for the replies guys.
Foxbat, I like the enclosure idea! Are you happy with the usability?
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I've been buying cleaned "once fired" brass for reloading. Between that and new factory brass pickup I am now at the point to where I need to start cleaning and reusing the brass because it is starting to build up. I haven't gotten into rifle reloading yet... and it seems like the simplest cleaning for pistol ammo is vibratory tumbling. The issue I've read is that it is typically recommended to tumble outside because of lead dust. I'd rather keep all of my reloading to one room. Has anyone used a filtered downdraft table with a dry tumbler indoors by chance? I'm curious if that would be the best route for me to go. Would also have the advantage of doubling as a nice cleaning table that vents aerosol solvent outside.
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If you want ammo, can afford to start out with an automated 1050, but don't want to put in any time learning the basics, you're probably better off buying factory ammo or finding a small commercial reloader who can load custom ammo to your requested specifications.
That really isn't a fair/accurate paraphrase of my question or replies thus far
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How many reloading books do you have
If you are thinking of any in particular I would appreciate the titles.
OP, all I'm saying is, a lot can go wrong, and we all here want you to be safe and ENJOY reloading.
Much appreciated
Then we lose you, or your hand, or some one near to you.
Granted, that would be bad...
recently picked up a used autodrive 1050; if I didn't have 3 1/2 years reloading experience I think I would be lost with a 1050
A Mark 7 automated Super 1050? No chance I would recommend that. I own both
Fair enough
Sorry to rain on your parade
You're not really raining on my parade. That is why I posted the question.
OP - are you starting to see a trend yet?
learn how to reload (let's say 10K flawless rounds as a good 'target') before evaluating (and thinking about what you've learned) before moving on from there.
Yeah. Not going to hook up an auto drive for awhile. They appear to be on back order right now anyways unfortunately. I guess that lets me run the powder level check which will help with the safety factor until I get the flawless 10K badge.
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Perhaps I searched poorly
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All I'm saying is, what seems complicated to you at this point (powder measure) is the least of your problems when running a 1050. Learn. How. To. Reload. First.
I am not exactly sure what you are saying with this. Do you mean don't worry about it and get going? Or do you mean don't use a 1050? I am trying to learn how to reload first. I just couldn't find the answer to that question anywhere. Perhaps I searched poorly
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First off, I appreciate all of the tips and advice everyone.
I have a couple of other questions I hope you will help me with...
So I watched some videos on how the 1050 operates and two things that look very handy are the powder check alarm and the primer system early warning. Do you know if these come with the Dillon S 1050? Or are they optional accessories? The website doesn't say either way but does show them in the photos.
I also realized that I don't have a decent scale for verifying powder load. I know that I want to go with an electronic scale for ease of use. And from looking at them online I am guessing that the trick is just to get close with the weight and then use standard deviation of velocity instead of being meticulous with a scale. But just to be sure I did not come to the wrong conclusion... here are a couple of questions about reloading scales:
Since I've never reloaded before I am not familiar with how precise the powder charge needs to be as far as accuracy is concerned. Obviously the longer the range the more important it becomes but I am curious about general ballpark. How precise is the powder drop on a progressive press like the 1050? I've noticed that all of the reloading scales I am finding on the internet are advertised as +/- 0.1 grain and the scales are typically only large enough for one powder tray. A lot of the reloading recipes I've read give their powder load as XX.X grains (i.e. 04.6 or 26.4). So am I looking at the wrong scales? For the 1/10 grain recipe measurement to be meaningful the scale used would need to be +/- 0.01 or either be able to measure many powder trays at once to minimize the error such that the weight can be averaged so that the significant digits can be taken as reliable. Can anyone provide some guidance here?
Second question about scales... some come with or offer optional calibration weights. But one thing I've noticed is that none of the scales seem to advertise a calibration interface. Are you guys using a calibration formula manually after taking the reading or is the digital calibration interface a given that doesn't need to be advertised?
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Wow thanks everyone for the replies... that was fast. I was a little nervous after seeing articles explicitly stating they wouldn't recommend a 1050 for someone who isn't al ready a seasoned reloader. I think I'll try one out.
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So I've never gotten into reloading because of the time investment required when I talked to my friends about how much time it takes for them to make x amount of ammo.
The other day I was looking at the dillon 1050 and came across the mark 7 auto drive and that got me interested. The 1050 seems to be capable of producing as much ammo in an hour or two as I'd typically shoot in a weekend. Especially if I went with the autodrive which seems to be safe enough to walk away from once it is operating.
But I keep reading recommendations that say they do not recommend a 1050 to someone new to reloading (even the recommendations from this site).
Why is this? Would it be unwise for me to purchase one never having reloaded before? I'd probably use the machine to reload 9mm only.
Which glock model?
in Glock
Posted
I'm not looking for my first match gear or my first gun with optics. I just haven't spent any time with Glocks. I was really just looking for something along the lines of the g17 is my favorite because you don't need the extra sight radius of the g34... Or whatever. Instead of buying three different 9mm configurations at once to see which one I like