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BigPapa

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    New to reloading 38 Super Comp

    in 9mm/38 Caliber

    Posted · Edited by BigPapa

    Setback is an issue. I had a Accurate Arms #7 and a 115g loaded that the bullet got pushed back a bit when I 1st started. The chrono showed over 2000fps. It was way louder then anything normal. Thankfully the brass held up! That being said. With 3n38 or just with comped guns I double plug. It is LOUD. Wear inner and outer ear protection. It helps a bit. 3n38 will/ can produce fireballs. Big ones. Lol I love it. I really like 3n38 as well as VV N105. I've noticed that with 3n38 and 105 the setback isn't too much of an issue as the case is very full. 10.5g of 3n38 under a 115g jhp is my load. It will flatten primers. It will pop a big fireball. It will be LOUD and if you are indoors watch out for florescent light bulbs... expecially if you have poppet holes... if you can seat the bullet tight enough to not extend the OAL once seated, you are set. Plated bullets I used a slight taper crimp. .379-.378 nothing more. Jackets I just switched to and got a new die set, I can't recall my crimp but I haven't has any issues. Load, then take the bullet and push firm on the top. No movement you should be ok. Too much crimp is really bad too. So don't over do it. I also push on the bullets as I load them into the mags. Just as a final precaution.

    Good luck! I think you will enjoy 38 super!

    My load listed is in supercomp brass. This data is for information only. Start lower and work up for your gun.

    Also Google 38 super ipsc load list.

    Lots of good info there!

    Thanks! At the moment I don't have a taper crimp die but I'll find out if I need one soon enough, as I'm getting my new dillon setup.

    At the moment I'm shopping for some different bullets in a variety of weights to see what my gun and I like the best.

    Would I have any leading issues shooting plated bullets? (Barrel or Comp Leading)

    If they're plated do they need to be JHP since the whole advantage of JHP is that their jacketed from the bottom up?

    Is there any real advantage with using strictly jacketed bullets?

    Lastly do you have any bullet recommendations?

    How do you use a chronograph to work up a load?

    in 9mm/38 Caliber

    Posted · Edited by BigPapa

    To clarify, setback is when in the process of chambering the bullet is pushed back in deeper than where you loaded it. I think you are talking about seating depth. Proper neck tension and doing a push test to make sure you don't chamber into the lands will make sure you don't suffer setback.

    There is no rule of thumb to estimate how deeply a bullet is seated into the case based off OAL. Two bullets of the same weight at the same OAL could be seated to significantly different depths into the case. I have a 125gr bullet whose max OAL results in a seating depth of .310, and my favorite 147gr I seat shorter than max, and it is only at a depth of .260. So no, you can't look at a published OAL use a rule of thumb to compare it to your bullet. I track seating depth as well OAL for all my loads, and if working up a load with a bullet that I believe is seated significantly deeper than the published load, I will probably lower starting load 5-10%. Using starting load in general should protect you from a catastrophic failure, but I have used a starting load before that produced a velocity that matched the top end of the published load window, and that left me with 40 bullets to pull apart. When in doubt, load up 5 rounds at starting load, shoot them over the chrono, and see where you are. If it is way under the published load, you're good to build a load ladder that starts a couple tenths over published starting load, and if it is well over, you would do well to build a ladder that starts a few tenths under published starting load.

    Thanks for the clarification. You were correct in your assumption in me meaning seating depth.

    As for my seating depth, I don't currently have a crimper. Would it be recommended since I'm more likely to see bullet setback due to 115gr bullets? I just purchased a dillon xl650, and am using Hornady dies if that matters to seat the bullet, and deprime.

    How do you use a chronograph to work up a load?

    in 9mm/38 Caliber

    Posted

    I don't know if this will be lucid or informative but here goes...

    In loading over book loads you have to consider some inherent variables. Volume and pressure are closely related. As an example "bullet setback" can reduce your volume in the case, there by increasing the pressure generated. So if you are loading above published loads and are not consistent on your bullet seating or COAL (cartridge over all length) you will have inconsistent pressure swings from batch to batch. If you use random brass, you will see some minor differences in case volume. Chamber dimensions also figure in here, as well as countless other variables, so a major load in one gun does not mean a safe load in its exact duplicate. If you see wide SD differences in your loadings, then mix that with some of the other variables mentioned, then you may be creating overpressure loads. In the same lot of homebrew ammo, most may be perfectly fine but that one that has "tolerance stacking" will do you in. All of this can be heady science but disaster can be averted by using a good scientific method. Hence the chronograph, log books, patience, etc.

    I would not discourage you from buying a progressive press but would caution you to use it like a single stage until you have run a few hundred or thousand rounds thru it to really understand the process (assuming you are new to reloading). When I use loads I find in the "books" I do find that the powder weight used rarely correlates to what speed I am actually getting. I live at 7750 elevation so I am sure that factors in. My chrono has metered to the Match Chrono every time I have been tested, so I have confidence there.

    Well at the moment I'm between 115 and 124gr bullets. I have at least 6-700 115gr JHP, and I understand that as the bullet weight increases so does the overall bullet length thus case volume decreases leading to increased pressures. I suppose what I'm trying to understand is there a rule of thumb that determines bullet setback as well as over all length, especially when changing between different bullet weights?

    New to reloading 38 Super Comp

    in 9mm/38 Caliber

    Posted

    If you're new at this, I wouldn't try to make Major (165+) right away.

    Take it slow, and reload some 10% off recommended loads, and YES,

    I'd try the 124 grain bullets, at least at the beginning.

    Have you been reloading anything? Any other calibers? Or is this a first?

    You CANNOT reload .38 to Major without a chrono!!! Don't even try it!!!!!

    Start out slowly, buy a chrono, and read the old postings here - go

    to FORUMS (top left of your screen), then scroll down to reloading, and then

    down to 9mm/.38 super. Then, spend a half hour reading - you'll gain

    five years experience in a half hour.

    When you load to Major, you also have to worry about OAL and bullet

    setback. Both are potential land mines.

    Welcome aboard, and hope you enjoy yourself as much as I have. :cheers:

    I've reloaded shotgun in the past but this is the first time I've tried my hand at pistol. As for a chrono, I'm set.

    The main thing I'm worried about at this point is overall length and setback. With overall length reliability becomes an issue. As for setback, bad things can happen if too much.

    Below are some sources of information about loading .38 Super that you might find of interest. Some gunpowders will make Major PF and still remain within standard pressure limits. 3N38 will do that, and is a great choice. Get Vihtavuori's load manual and look under data for .38 Super Lapua. It is the same as .38 Super Comp brass - a rimless version of .38 Super.

    http://www.shootingtimes.com/reloading/super-powders-for-the-38-super/

    http://38super.net/Pages/Major.html

    http://38super.net/Pages/Gunpowder.html

    http://38super.net/Pages/Recoil.html

    I'll be sure to take a look tonight thanks.

    New to reloading 38 Super Comp

    in 9mm/38 Caliber

    Posted

    Ive been using Hercules Unique smokeless pistol and shotgun powder. I have less than a pound of it and its just what I had laying around at the time.

    As for primers I've been using cci500 but am just finishing up the last of them. I do have around 12,000 Fiocchi Small Pistol Primers I purchased for reloading 9mm.

    New to reloading 38 Super Comp

    in 9mm/38 Caliber

    Posted

    Well this Saturday was my first USPSA shoot and my first go at reloading 38 super.
    For the shoot I reloaded all my 38 super to about 1250 fps (Chronographed) using 115 JHP as well as starline rimless brass. This was with the maximum powder the manufacturer recommended.

    I was told during my shoot that I need to reload well above the manufactures specified values.

    I currently have an Open gun and need to hit Major Power Factor; 165 I believe.

    I was wondering if anyone would give me some pointers on the best powders, bullets, and primer combinations. From what Ive read I should use a light bullet (JHP prefered) with a slow burning powder as well as use small rifle primers due to the increased pressures of the minimum 165 power factor.

    I'm adding pictures of my gun and barrels since it appears the porting orientation seems to make a difference.

    It would appear I need more posts before I can post pictures, but I have an STI pistol with 2 ported barrels.

    The first barrel has 3 large ports on top and 1 small verticle on each side near the rear.

    The second barrel has 4 large ports on top, as well as 2 small round ports near the rear. Has 2 verticle ports on each side near the end of the barrel.

    I'll post as soon as I'm able.

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