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blacklab

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Posts posted by blacklab

  1. I’ll make a long story short. Years ago I thought I might want to shoot limited so I started gathering parts. The smith I took everything to closed shop before my stuff was finished and they’ve been collecting dust in the safe ever since. The other weekend I ran into someone I haven’t seen in ages and he started asking if I wanted to sell him everything. Problem is I don’t know what things are selling for these days and it’s been so long that I don’t remember what I paid for everything. Could someone give me an idea where to start?  What I have:

    1- Pre Staccato STI frame kit, frame, grip, trigger and I think a mag release. 
    2- CK Arms slide (I think but not positive) has sight cuts but I don’t remember for what, had some machining done, kinda a square pattern machined on the surface not all the way through. For 9mm. 
    3-KKM or Schuemann (don’t remember) 355 bull barrel, don’t think it’s been chambered yet. 
    4- I think there’s a generic extractor, hammer and maybe a firing pin. 
    Nothing has been fitted yet and no fire controls, ejector, safeties or slide stop. I took it to the guys house the other day and never thought to take pictures. Any clue what its worth? ——Please don’t ask to buy it since he has dibs and I’m not interested in shipping and what not——

    Thanks in advance. 

  2. I've gotten comfortable with using SNS 115gr coated bullets with 4.3gr of universal for 9mm minor loads in a 2011 open gun and thought I'd just always stick with it forever, if it's not broke don't fix it. Unfortunately, my system broke recently, Universal is nowhere to be found. I've been doing some reading online and Unique, Sport Pistol, N340 and WST all seem to be somewhat of a good substitute from what I can tell. I'm trying to not have to buy a ton of different powders to try and was hoping someone would chime in and share what they found that works best in their gun. I know each gun acts differently, but I'd like to start with the one's that people had the best luck with and go from there. If I could find a close alternative in the first or second try that'd be a huge time and money saver.

  3. 9 hours ago, Frankly said:

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  4. On 7/6/2019 at 11:18 AM, Delfuego said:

    Definitely clean it before you send that first round. Make sure the barrel is clean and dry.

     

    I still do some break in. Not a ton, but some. I figure why not, I just spent +$700 on the barrel and I am at the range and have the time. I play with another rifle or 22 while waiting for barrels to cool off anyway. I split the difference between "over-the-top" break in and none at all.

     

    I clean after the first round (lots of copper). I only use patches, and Boretech Cu+2 not brushes. Then I'll shoot 3-5 clean a little. Then maybe shoot 5-10 and clean. I use the time/rounds to zero the scope get velocity too. 

     

    I may be a sucker, but I immediately start load development. If nothing else, I will find a bullet and a seating depth the barrels likes. When it speeds up, those 2 things should not change.

    This sounds like a good compromise. I think I'll go with this.

  5. I have enough entertainment in my life don't need much more...………...going to have to think about this for awhile. I my have to just take a leap of faith and skip the break in process so I can hang out with all the cool kids.

  6. 13 minutes ago, TonytheTiger said:

    If this was any other forum you would've just started a 12 page debate

    That's why I asked it here and not the other forum. Just trying to get a straight yes or no answer, not a 2 hour lecture.😉

  7. I’m getting into the  precision shooting and came across an awesome deal on a custom rifle that’s never been fired. I’ve been putting off shooting it until I have a full day set aside for barrel beak in. But there are a few people telling me that the newer barrels don’t need to be broken in like the older ones. Is there any truth to this? I only get one chance at doing it right so I don’t want to mess it up. 

  8. 2 hours ago, verla said:

    I have been using STI 140 and 170 mags for years with no problem. Trick is to maintain correct measurements, change springs yearly, clean mags after each stage, and check the condition of the follower. Just want mine to work vs cramming in as many rounds as possible.

    ^^^^this^^^^^^

    140 with Dawson +1 base pads. Easy to grab off the belt but not too top heavy to run with them on a belt. Like veria said, keep them clean and well maintained and you’ll have no problems. That holds true for any mag though. I not sure what advantages there are to 155, 140’s mixed with 170’s seem like they will do everything 155’s mixed with ether one will do. But that’s just my opinion. 

  9. On 6/25/2019 at 8:51 PM, Aircooled6racer said:

    Hello: I sight in at 18 yards. Head shots at 3' put the dot on top of the head. At 50 yards put the dot at the bottom of the "A" zone. Thanks, Eric

    I’d go with this one. My major gun for USPSA and my minor gun for 3 gun are both sighted in at 50 feet .The only time I have a hard time hitting a target is when they see me coming and duck for covert😂. Seriously though, 50 feet’ish is a good compromise. 

  10. 2 hours ago, Sarge said:

    Going on an Open gun or PCC? Every little bit of weight makes a big difference.

    It’s going on an open gun. I thought about the weight different but it’s on my 3 gun pistol, It tends to get beaten up more then my USPSA pistol. It was nice when they were the exact same but the added weight might be a fair trade off for being a little stronger. At least I hope so, guess I’ll find out. 

  11. Called C-More today and they said $55 to rebody it with plastic and $129 for aluminum with a 2 to 4 week turn around. For the extra $74 I probably should go with the aluminum. 

     

  12. 15 minutes ago, Sarge said:

    I would email them with the exact damage. If it is a good sight that holds zero well etc they will probably rebuild it for a fee. I have heard so many different stories its best to talk to them yourself. Some have had rebuilds done cheap and others have been told it's a total loss.

    I was a good one that never gave me any problems. Thanks for the advice, I'll give them a shout tomorrow. 

  13. I was having a pretty good day of 3 gun until I killed my C-More. When I put my pistol in the dump bucket I must have caught the C-More on the edge of the bucket and cracked (more like split) the plastic around the lens. Does anyone know if the whole thing junk or can I send it back to C-More to have it repaired? 

  14. I'll track you down at Heidelberg or Ontelaunee to see how its working. If it works out to be reliable for you I may have to look into one.

    5 minutes ago, IntenseImage said:

    Then not really again till the monthly matches at one of the local clubs start up in April.

     

  15. On ‎1‎/‎24‎/‎2019 at 5:20 PM, IntenseImage said:

    Also got in some "mag hooks" to hang mags off my belt instead of buying caddies.

    Interested to see how the mag hooks work out for you, looks like they would act like a fish hook and get caught on things. When are you going to be using it in a match? I might have to follow you around until you let me try it.😎

  16. As much as I didn't want to get  new slide, I guess its the right thing to do. One of the reasons I tore it apart was to thoroughly clean it and send it off to get refinished. Even though it sounds like it might still work if I'm putting out the money to make it look nice I'd hate to have the piece break off after its finished. 

     

    Thanks for the input.

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