Bwidpa
-
Posts
39 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Profiles
Events
Store
Posts posted by Bwidpa
-
-
New to the CZ platform. I like to carry spare parts when going to larger competitions, just in case. This way I'm not out of a match if I traveled a long way to get there. ...and I'm too cheap to buy an entire backup gun.
From your experiences are there any springs/parts that are worth having on hand for those unwanted emergencies?
Having a spare sear spring for my M&P saved my butt during a match last year. Just dont know what the weak points are on the cz shadow. Would be nice if there are none (wishful thinking, I know)
-
I know STI quit making the Trojan 40, anybody know value on a used one?
-
Just got my first CZ (shadow custom from CZC). I'm used to loading my 147s to 1.14 OAL for an M&P Pro. Went to reload for the CZ and it wouldn't pass the plunk test with anything longer than 1.09 using BBI 147s. Xtreme and Everglades ammo 147 both pass the plunk test with my normal load at 1.14. I have a case of BBI sitting around and would like to use them, and I've tended to get better accuracy with coated vs plated out of my other guns. Just wanted to see if anyone else is going that short in their shadows? And if so how much are backing off the powder(if any)? I'm using titegroup in these loads. Not looking to ream the barrel just yet. Thanks in advance
-
6 hours ago, asdfdsa said:
Not a custom order, its my 3rd order from them so i am around the 3k mark. Every one i have randomly grabbed and measured has been .400 +- .0005
That's good to know. I have not ordered from them in a while, wonder if they are sizing them smaller.
-
2 hours ago, asdfdsa said:
165gr Bluebullets are sized at .400
I use 3.5gr of red dot for 140pf out of a tanfoglio stock 2 at oal 1.140. 3.3gr gave a 132pf but my dueling tree thought it was a little anemic.
perceived recoil is very soft.
Was this a custom order? Any blue bullets I've ordered were sized to .401-.402 . I have to resize to get them to .400. BBI are the only Coated bullets I've found to be .400 without resizing.
-
Wanting to try some lighter bullets in my STI Trojan 40 for IDPA. I shoot 180's for single stack major but downloading them makes the gun feel sluggish. Been looking around at 155's and 165's, possibly even 140's. Only problem is the gun likes them 1.18 OAL or longer. Any suggestions on bullets to try out? I Prefer plated Because i Usually have to resize coated and lead to .400 since the chamber is tight, but willing to try whatever since I have the bullet sizer? What seems to be the sweet spot for minor PF and bullet weight?
-
10 hours ago, Racinready300ex said:
When you beat these guys in IDPA are the getting PE's? Do they practice with the vest, and slide lock and all the other little things that make IDPA different? The reality is probably just that you are shooting in there game, so they are at a bit of a advantage.
You're best bet isn't to sacrifice speed for accuracy, you don't have to pick one or the other you can have both with practice. But, as a IDPA shooter you probably do need to speed up, and improve your gun handling. Just from watching IDPA shooters try USPSA I would guess your stage plans and execution are probably what is hurting you the most. A lot of IDPA guys I see come out and look at the stage but don't really "walk" the stage. They even look a little lost as they shoot. Visualize your plan over and over again until you don't have to think about it.
When you get the hang of USPSA, you will probably be dominating your local IDPA match.
No PE's. A lot of guys I see who are better uspsa shooters tend to have fast raw times, but drop points in IDPA which affect there score more than I am willing to. I am currently unclassified in uspsa (tried out different divisions and settled on SS, with my good ol' STI), but the matches I've attended I'm scoring with the B class shooters. When talking with some of the guys, they mentioned that depending on the stage, they are willing to drop "a" hits because the speed is going to be better for the hit factor on that stage. Is there a deciding factor when to up the speed and sacrifice the hits? For IDPA I traveled to sanctioned matches in 7 different states this year, next year I plan on trying to throw in some bigger uspsa matches. Trying to figure out the game before I do any traveling. Thanks for the responses!
-
Don't know if this topic has been beat to death. I'm primarily an idpa shooter and regularly place in the top 5 at local idpa matches. I started shooting uspsa matches and have noticed that the people I regularly beat in idpa matches will beat me in uspsa matches. When looking at scores I have a higher amount of "a" hits but that's not bringing me higher hit factors. I'm shooting SS major. Question, what's the advice on deciding whether to sacrifice accuracy for speed on a given stage? Or any other tips you might have for someone going from idpa to uspsa?
-
10 minutes ago, jcc7x7 said:
One easy solution is to just drop bullet weight
I use 180's now mostly for major and use the same load with Bayou 140gr for steel /minor load.
I don't change anything just the bullet and get a really nice shooting load for minor applications.
The OAL is slightly shorter if I go from a RN 200gr to the 140 BUT about the same from the Bayou 180 TC to the 140 TC
Have you chrono' both loads? What difference in power factor just dropping bullet weight?
-
41 minutes ago, Alaskapopo said:
Just work up a load. You probably only need 2 tenths of a grain more to get the velocity you want with the longer OAL. Thats what I did.
Pat
That was what I was planning on, just wanted to see what others have had luck with. Also, wanted to hear what options I have with other powders. How is the extra space in the case effecting standard deviation on your loads and your groups? I've read on here that some people have noticed erratic velocities with some powders at low charge weights, anybody else?
-
Trying to use the same gun for both USPSA and IDPA (STI Trojan 40, single stack major uspsa, ESP in IDPA with 10 round mags). Anybody loading 40 minor for an STI? Mine likes them to be 1.18 OAL or longer. I use 1.20 OAL for my major load. A lot of powders at hand (except Clays, which most people suggest). I have a shorter minor load of 3.1 gr Titegroup at 1.125 with 180 bayou out of an m&p. Just looking for some starting points so I'm not wasting a lot of time at my chrono with all the hot weather. Was thinking of Titegroup, w231, or WST to start with. Would like to keep bullet weight at 180, since that's what I cast and have on hand. I have many different weights of recoil springs to play with so changing it is not a problem. I know this topic is all over the forums, but can't find much for longer OALs. Thanks.
-
i switched powders for a recent big match to 231, which I found to be more dirty and clogged my mag release, causing it to stay pushed in when I released the mag from slide lock. I did a reload, which I purposefully do hard enough to release the slide. But, with no mag release to catch the mag, it over inserted and wouldn't allow my gun to go into battery. I disassembled it, cleaned it, and looked it over, but ever since have been plagued by occasional dead triggers (no reset) !! I have changed springs ( it had 7k rounds) and adjusted the trigger bar loop, but still keeps giving me trouble! My last guess is that when I over inserted the mag it slightly bent my trigger bar? Has anyone else had this happen or have any ideas? Have a new trigger bar on the way, just want to cover my bases before my next match. Thanks
-
I use an old bullseye load from the 70's that everybody around here used to shoot in their autos for 25 bullseye matches,
It shoots great but after a couple years of shooting major out of my 625 it feels weird shooting minor out of it
Load
LPP
3.5 grs of bullseye
230 Plain lead bullet
126 PF in my gun
Hitek bullet may require a .1 more to get a cushion for power factor
shoot your usual 170+ PF loads and then some of these and start laughing how mild they feel!
What OAL are you using?
-
ICORE is starting to spread to my neck of the woods. The only competition revolver I have at the moment is a 625 that I'm used to shooting at major power factor (wst or 700x with 230gr RN plated). From what I understand, ICORE power factor is 120! What loads are you revolver guys using for ICORE in 45? What is the lowest power factor that's working good for you? I hear a lot of guys using clays, but can't find it here. The powders I have on hand are titegroup, wst, power pistol, 700x, longshot, bullseye, hs-6. I'm guessing 185's are popular?
-
Well, I finally figured it out. In case others run into a similar problem, for some reason my iPad's default settings on practiscore left out some divisions even after syncing to the registration. To fix you have to go under "shooters/squads" then "match divisions" to add whatever wasn't a default division. I never ran into this problem on other devices. Thanks for the replies.
-
I went in to manually change division but it didn't even offer an option for REV, ESR, or SSR. I figure it's my device (which has the latest update). We normally use nooks which never have this issue.
-
Trying to use my iPad as the master for an upcoming IDPA match. I registered myself and synced it to the registration to make sure everything was working. When I looked under my name it said "division invalid" (revolver) and asked me to change the division. When I tried there was no revolver division listed. The registration on practiscore has revolver set-up. Any ideas or fixes?
-
Yes. I have posted numerous times my experience with C+S oversized pins. Mine had to be shaved on the sides to get them to work or they would bind in the channel. I also had to remove material from the cut area to get them to fully retract. The ones I got were obviously cast or MIM (you could see the mold flash) and just junk IMO.Bought an extended firing pin to try in my 625 to get rid of some light primer strikes. I bought one from cylinder and slide (supposedly a drop-in). When I went to do the install I noticed that it was oversized. If I dropped the hammer the pin wouldn't reset and would stay protruded into the cylinder. Anyone else have this happen? I can't tell if it's the larger saddle area of the pin or the skinny part of the pin that's oversized.
I installed three of them in my SW 66 comp guns and did tests where I reduced the mainspring force to where I got light strikes and compared to good stock pins. The extended pins did NOT improve striking energy compared to a good stock pin. However, they are prone to breakage (two of mine broke in very short time) and I threw away the third.
I have never seen any convincing information that making the FP longer improves strike energy compared to a good stock pin. SW did have some defective (short) pins but the proper ones which are about .492" length (from memory) strike very well. IMHO, longer pins are a waste of money. Just get the proper stock pin.
Thanks for the info. I put the stock pin back in. When I find the time I may try and chuck the C&S pin in a drill and buff it a little to see if that takes enough off of it to fit right.
-
Bought an extended firing pin to try in my 625 to get rid of some light primer strikes. I bought one from cylinder and slide (supposedly a drop-in). When I went to do the install I noticed that it was oversized. If I dropped the hammer the pin wouldn't reset and would stay protruded into the cylinder. Anyone else have this happen? I can't tell if it's the larger saddle area of the pin or the skinny part of the pin that's oversized.
-
My m&p has a really tight chamber. If there is any bulge it won't chamber. I've even had trouble with cast bullets since they're usually sized a little bigger and bulge the mouth. So I use a push through to guarantee I'm not going to have a ftf in a match.
-
I load on a LnL with lee dies and they seem to get rid of the bulges in about 90% of the cases without push-thru. I just completely load, then I check for bulges and remove the remaining bulges from the loaded rounds. Sometimes it's just as fast to just run them all through the bulge buster as a last step. It probably only takes <5min to run 100 loaded rounds through, running just the brass through seems to be more of a pain.RandyLahey said he didn't want to get into push-thru sizing and some of you have successfully been able to get your resizing die to hit low enough to clear any Glock bulge. I'm using an LnL with Dillon dies and I have been completely unable to remove the bulges without doing the push-thru dance as a first step. How are you guys doing it without doing a push-thru before loading????
-
Quack, where did you get that case guage? That looks like a great addition to the reloading bench. A lot easier than a single case guage!Can you tell what row is range pick up brass and what row was shot from a 2011 with a match barrel?
For bonus points, can you spot the Glock fired brass?
-
I've been working on a m&p 40 to use for minor loads. I installed an apex trigger, polished the feed ramp, and put in a reduced recoil spring and stainless guiderod. My load I'm using needed the reduced recoil spring to cycle ( round wouldn't eject) which is what I expected. But now I'm having a problem with the gun not always going into battery and having to slap the rear of the slide to push it forward. I only dropped the spring weight by 1 pound to 15lbs. Could the failure to go into battery be from a too heavy of a recoil spring (maybe it's cycling enough to eject but not enough to push the round all the way into the chamber)? Would reducing the spring weight further help? It never happens when I slingshot the slide to chamber a round only while I'm shooting. Thanks in advance for any help
-
On hand I have titegroup, bullseye, cfe pistol, 700x, hs6, longshot, and wst.
Spare parts cz shadow custom?
in CZ
Posted
To clarify not just during a match but if something happens before with not enough time to order the parts.
Are slide stop breakages common on shadows?