TDA
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Posts posted by TDA
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No, the 41" was a guess at the height difference of the plate rack if it was placed directly on the ground as opposed to being on a stand.
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So, using the example above, a 10° change in elevation of the plates would equal about a 41" height difference in the plates.
20y*cos10°=19.7 yds.
So you are saying that 10" in distance changes to POI enough to miss the plate?
Or is "jimbullet" standing on top of a hill shooting down on the plates?
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Make sure that the shell plate isn't loose as well as the primer punch assy.
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What press are you using?
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Yes, which is exactly why the static charge jumps from you to the press!
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The point is, reducing the main spring to lighten the trigger is not necessary ON 1911/2011 PISTOLS, so why risk light strikes by doing so?
Edited in bold.
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On 12/30/2017 at 10:29 AM, IHAVEGAS said:
Agreed, with the caveat that many of us run a little close to the minimum with 1911/2011 hammer springs also.
Changing main springs on a 1911 to reduce trigger pull makes no sense at all.
I run a 2 lb trigger with a 23 lb mainspring and can easily reduce it to 1.5 lb pull.
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4 hours ago, mwray said:
Do you shoot left handed or normal?
Umm, you mean right handed or normal, right?
I never noticed how many (other) left handers there were out there until I started shooting.
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The 650 has no depth stop or limiting device on the priming system *if maintained properly, so it seats the primers to the full depth of the primer pocket as long as you operate the handle up properly and have it mounted to a good, sturdy, bench.
*What I mean by "if maintained properly" is that some have had the primer punch back out (unscrew) which can limit the primer from fully seating, which isn't the fault of the press if you don't look at things and make sure everything is operating properly.
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16 hours ago, Fasthenk65 said:
Vincent, ultimate reliability from seating primers deep enough for a highly tuned DA/SA gun... The 650 you cannot adjust primer depth.... so not reliable for my tuned guns...
"Primer depth" has absolutely nothing to do with anything.
Primers need to be fully seated in the case, period, which is what a XL650 will do if operated properly form a sturdy bench.
If you have primer seating problems with a 650, it's you, not the press!
You can have the same issues with your hand primer if you don't operate it properly.
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2 hours ago, CamboSoup22 said:
For the Op if it’s becoming an issue maybe you can get an ESD wrist strap from the electronics store clipped to the press and yourself. Keep yourself and your press at the same potential and it shouldn’t be an issue.
That is what I do during the hard Florida winters when loading.
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6 hours ago, matteekay said:
Do I just need the stem? Or is the die different too?
You only need the stem.
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As for the crushed cases...I keep a finger touching the case until it is engaged by the sizing die. Just enough pressure to keep the case fully in the shell pl;ate groove. It's a timing thing in order to get your finger out of the way before it gets pinched between the ram and the die plate though. If your timing is off, you'll know it right away, because you can't imaging how much it hurts!
As for the shaving...the bullet is not sitting on the case straight when it enters the seating die.
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^^^ The SDB doesn't use locking rings or standard dies.
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What could possibly go wrong?
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Sounds normal for mixed brass.
The important thing is that they are fully seated, not the specific depth.
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I've been using a MBF funnel in my SDB for .40 for thousands of rounds with no trouble at all.
Perhaps something is incorrectly adjusted as I have six thread of adjustment left where the OP has none.
In fact my SDB has the "fail safe" system and it runs quiet and perfectly smooth without all of the clacking and jumping that others seem to complain about.
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This is interesting, as I have a M&P40 and it's the most useless pistol that I own. It's about like you say, a 6"-8" group at 15 yds.
Glock, Sig, Beretta, all shoot very well on the same ammo, but I gave up on the M&P after about a year of fighting with it and trying different loads and projectiles.
It was actually worse than that when I first got it and it went back to S&W. They replaced the barrel and it was better, but still useless in comparison to other pistols.
YMMV
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"one in 20 or so fails to go bang."
Since I imagine Dillon already covered checking to see that the primer punch is screwed in properly and the shell plate is adjusted properly, it sounds like you are just not pushing the handle hard enough to seat the primers!
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Perhaps you didn't re-size the case prior to trying to fit the bullet.
The case expands when fired.
.333"-.334" makes no sense for 9mm.
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1 hour ago, MJinPA said:
Definitely not. When I switched it from 9 to 45 I just swapped the plates. I thought that washer was for longer cases like 45 lc and 44 mag. I'll install and see if it helps. Thanks for the replies!
No, you don't want it installed for .45ACP.
That's why I was asking.
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You don't have the washer on the case feeder plate that is needed for tall cases do you?
I've never had a .45 case drop inverted, but I do get them with 9mm.
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I use 158gr Acme coated LSWC's for both.
.38 Spec runs around 800 fps from a Ruger LCR, and .357 runs at 1150 fps from a 2" barrel Security Six.
Bayou 200swc and Clays
in 44/45 Caliber
Posted · Edited by TDA
I use 4.0 to 4.2 Clays (original Aus) with 200 LSWC coated or bare at that OAL.