sleepercaprice1
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Posts posted by sleepercaprice1
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There are several powders that would probably work for you and it's almost impossible to say which one is the best. The old standby for match ammo was 4895. Nowadays, Varget is pretty popular. Expermentation is the only way to know for sure what will work best in your rifle.
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Standard full length .30-06 dies should work fine for loading for the M1. Be careful with powder selection. Most people use powders in the 4895 and 4064 range. Powders that are too slow can damage the operating rod.
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For a gas gun, I use 4064 or 4895. For a bolt gun, I use 4350.
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I've used an old countersink bit for years. Put it in a drill press or in a hand drill and just touch the case to the running bit. The crimp is gone almost instantly. I deliberately use an old dull bit because it's not difficult to cut too much if you're not careful.
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Best Stay Away
I remember years ago when BSA was a popular motorcycle in the US, we used to say it stood for "Bitch Stalled Again".
I wish I still had a couple of the ones I sold back then.
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Be careful with W748 in hot weather if you worked up in cool conditions. I had to keep my ammo in the shade one year when I went prairie dog shooting. I didn't blow any primers, but I definitely had pressure signs when the ammo sat in the sun all day.
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I'd tell them what's wrong and if they don't automatically ask to have it fixed, I would talk them into it.
+1.
If they still said no they would be signing a notice that I told them of the problem and they refused to have it fixed. I would cover my ass six ways from Sunday on this one. Probably have a third party present to witness everything.
Pat
That's what I would do. When I was younger I fixed a lot of cars for friends, neighbors, etc. If I found an unsafe item they didn't want fixed, I made them sign an aknowledgement form before they took the car saying that they were advised of the unsafe condition and refused proper repairs.
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Kydex is also used as a wall covering. I see it a lot in Hospitals in high traffic areas, especially on corners in hallways. Your local wall covering peddler might have suitable stock, or even scraps on hand
What you are seeing used as a wall covering might be a product called FRP (fiberglass reinforced plastic). I've installed lots of it in lab and food service areas. It looks similar to Kydex, but I'm not sure it would be as easy to work with.
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Neck sizing can be accomplished exactly as you are doing it- back the full length die out a bit. This has been a common practice for many years. The good thing about this method is that you can size your cases just enough to chamber easily.
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The stages were great, the weather was perfect and the food was good. The staff did a great job. I'll be back for the next one.
Not a big deal, and I don't know if anyone else noticed, but my match t-shirt says "O3CG". I guess the printer transposed the G and C. I'm glad it's not a tattoo.
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Are there still slots open? I didn't think I would be able to go, but it looks like I can make it if apps are still being accepted.
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In my experience, dented shoulders are usually the result of excessive lube. It's also possible that there may be media or other crud accumulated in the die. I'd try spraying out the die with brake cleaner and visually verify that that the die is clean.
As far as the trimmer motor getting hot, I've noticed the same thing. I've never checked it with a thermometer, but it definitely gets warm.
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It took me a few minutes to scan and email my application, but it's in. Hopefully I'll be getting an email from Lea letting me know I got a slot.
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I've been using Solo 1000 for both lead and polymer/moly coated bullets and getting very little smoke.
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I'm using a Dillon trimmer for .223 and don't deburr or chamfer. What I do is size/trim with the Dillon the first pass and then deprime/size with a second conventional sizing die set so it doesn't really do any additional sizing. I've been doing the 2 step process in a RCBS single stage, but plan to set up a tool head for my 550.
I find that the minute burr left from the Dillon trimmer is swaged/removed after running through the sizing die. If I was loading flat base bullets, I might be inclined to use a chamfering tool, but with boat tails I don't bother.
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JP's video on gas rifle basics is a very good thing to watch and garner info from, even if you are an old hand at shooting. I remembered things i'd forgotten and learned some new ones. John's info on checking ammo is very important when it comes to reliability. you might drop check the ammo as well.
For polishing I've taken a once fired case from that rifle and coated it with rouge or flitz and attached it to a rod section and spun it on a drill, you can also do it with a fat chamber mop.
Trapr
I'll have to give that a try,,
I chamber gage every round.
I'll have to look up JP's video,,, probably on the web site.
I have a LR308T and had similar extraction problems with it when it was new. I polished the chamber as described above using a fired case, I added an "O" ring to the extractor spring, added a tungsten weight from a H1 buffer and installed an Armalite AR10 buffer spring, which is a little longer then the DPMS spring, which may mean a bit more strength. My thinking is that the added weight to the buffer and stiffer buffer spring delays bolt opening. My rifle now runs nearly 100% with US ammo or my own loads. It's still somewhat problematic with some foreign surplus. My belief is that the chamber is tight in the neck area and cases with thick necks may cause extraction problems.
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I don't mean to nit-pick, but I believe the German factory is owned by Lapua.
Lapua / Schönebeck
Lapua GmbH is located in Schönebeck, 130 km southwest of Berlin in Germany.
Lapua GmbH was until 2004 called SK Jagd- und Sportmunitions GmbH.
The Company celebrated its 175th anniversary in 2004, and is thus the Nammo facility with the longest history. Today, the site is owned by Nammo Lapua and specializes in the manufacturing of rimfire and shotgun cartridges. Almost 60 people work at Lapua GmbH in Schönebeck.
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I did some reading about Wolf slugs and it seems they are made in Germany by Lapua. I didn't think Lapua was in Germany, but if either the Germany or Lapua part is true, I'm inclined to think they might be of better quality than what I would normally expect from Wolf.
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There are 16" guns with rifle length gas systems. Bushmaster has sold the dissipator for years.
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I need to buy some slugs for the season. I've been shooting Remington reduced recoil slugs in my FN SLP and getting so-so accuracy. Any suggestions for reasonably priced slugs?
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I used a SBE for a couple seasons before I bought my FN SLP. I had a 24" barrel with a Benelli extension. The SBE worked fine. I did install a lighter recoil spring which improved reliability with low powered shells. I'm not positive, but I think I got the spring from Wolff.
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I haven't heard much said about Bushnell's Elite 4200 1.25-4. In my experience with their higher magnification optics, they are very clear and sharp and seem like a bargain for the money.
Has anybody tried one of these and how do you like it? An illuminated reticle with good glass for $400 or so, would be a good deal for a guy on a budget.
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I'm thinking of putting together another upper for 3 gun. I ran across a used Bravo Company 20" gov't profile, 20" 1/7 chrome lined that has less than 200 rounds through it. The current owner claims sub MOA accuracy. I've never owned an A2 profile upper. Would this be too heavy for general 3 gun use?
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Sabre AR Upper I just spotted this over at Midway. Really good deal for someone.
That SDI looks tempting. What kind of accuracy do you think could be expected?
Winchester 748 and Hornady 55 FMJBT
in Rifle/Shotgun
Posted
I have found that much over 25 grains gets pressure signs in hot weather. I once loaded some 55 grain V-Max's with 26 grains of W748 for prairie dog hunting and had to keep them in the shade to prevent flat primers.