Supranatural
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Posts posted by Supranatural
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Agree with Postal Bob. Bringing the gun way too low, body mechanics are a little off due to this, regrip is a little out of place but ok. Have you seen this video below from Travis Tomasie? This video made me realize how fast and smooth a reload can be and I suck at them. Watch his mechanics and try to replicate this...
Isn't Travis using an Open gun with a magwell that lends itself very well to fast reloads like that?
I'm looking at Brian Enos' book (Practical Shooting Beyond Fundamentals) and it clearly shows him lowering the gun to about sternum level. I'm also pretty sure I've read somewhere by one of the USPSA GMs (maybe it was Stoeger or Hopkins) that you should reload around sternum level because you have a higher level of coordination at that spot in your body - don't ask me where I read it but I've been working a lot on my reloads and researching everything I can find about it and I found that my reloads became more consistent when I reload around sternum level when I'm pushing the envelope for my skill/speed level.
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Okay aside from the typical stuff (take the mag apart, clean it, lube internally) do I have to do anything to the external part of the mag? The reason I ask is that I do a lot of reloading drills in dry fire and I noticed my black MecGar CZ mags have shiny spots where the black paint has worn off. Do I have to worry about corrosion/rust? Do I/Should I put a light coat of oil on these spots? Or is it a non issue for a regularly used pistol (i.e., if I get another pistol I use a lot more should I do something to the mags to protect against corrosion)?
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I use 147's in my tac sport and it feels like I'm shooting a 22.
I'm a noob so I have to ask..it seems counter intuitive that a heavier bullet would have less recoil. I would think that a heavier bullet, requiring more force to get moving (faster burning powder as someone posted about in this thread), would create more ft lb of energy that would translate to more felt recoil...
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Are you allowed to remove the right side safety lever or must it remain on for USPSA rules? That's the one that I find myself hitting, never the left (thumb) side one...
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Use what works for you. I happen to like the thin aluminum grips and was considering trying something with a more aggressive checker instead of the tape grip but I'm not really motivated as the thin Al seems to work just fine for me plus I like the way it looks.
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I have both the Compact and Subcompact Sphinx/Kriss pistols. They are about the same width as my P-07. Very nice guns both, but I prefer to shoot the Compact. The Subcompact is only about 1/2" shorter than the Compact and it has a shorter grip (and holds two rounds less). I carry both with no issues. The internal buffer, rubber grips and high undercut of the trigger guard makes the Compact a soft shooter - the Sub has an all hard plastic handle. Pretty accurate both of them and very well made.
Do you carry with IWB holster? If so what holster do you use?
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SPO1 to SAO
in CZ
Changing the trigger alone will do it, you can also remove the disconnector since it will no longer serve a function.
Am I understanding this correctly, changing the trigger alone will change over from DA/SA to SAO?
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True, but it looks like the blue is not for Shadows
Also here is a direct link for the blue grips for the Shadows http://dlaskarms.com/collections/cz-custom-and-accessories/products/cz-75-75b-85-low-profile-grips-standard-size-aluminum-blue
Any idea if those grips are the the same thickness as the "thin" aluminum grips that come on the Shadow?
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Now go and get them all scratched. ;-)
Mj
Are you telling me they're not scratch proof???
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Thanks for the insight...
I went ahead and purchased a CR Speed Deluxe belt, a Boss DOH holster, and 5 DAA Racer mag pouches. I had already bought a 5-pack of the plated 17rd mags from CZC when I was down in AZ in January.
http://czcustom.com/cz759mm17rdmagplated.aspx
Hopefully, these were good gear choices.
I have no idea if I'll need new/additional base pads for the mags. I figured I'd leave them stock for now & see how it goes...
Would anyone else suggest getting the base pads right from the jump?
If so, why and which ones?
Thanks again!
Sounds almost exactly like my setup. Boss DOH holster is great, I love it, like they say on the website, they don't call it Boss because it sucks!
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Just curious, what is the rationale for replacing the stock base pads, is there a performance or durability improvement?
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Check shooters connection first! It will be the cheapest with your Benos discount.
How do you get the Benos discount?
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But what division does a Hippogriff put you in?
Bigger factor is that you need to be a virgin shooter to use the Unicorn...most of will have to choose Hippogriff...
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CZ is a great gun for a competitive option but it's 3x times the cost of a Glock 34/35. It's definitely a buy once and cry once scenario.
You can interchange barrels for a Glock 34/35, shoot between production, limited Major/Minor, and stay cost effective. Not sure if CZ can do the same but if you dedicate to one specific class it'll definitely be worth the cost.
That's just my opinion. I ended up jumping to Open and I haven't looked back since
I've always found it funny that some people (and I'm not saying you are as your post shows that obviously you understand the idea behind the cost of a pistol and it's value to the user) will say for the "price of xxx brand I could buy 2 of yyy brand" or "that is $300 more than yyy brand" when in the end the cost of the pistol is minor in the scheme of things if you really shoot a lot (and enjoy it). I can see for the very, very casual gun owner who wants to buy a gun for home defense that will be shot a couple of times at the range then left in a safe in the bedroom waiting to be deployed in the most dire of circumstances, in that case the least expensive Glock makes a lot of sense. I do a lot of big game fly fishing and when someone finds out I spend $1,500 to $2,000 on one of my fly reels (when a typical high end fly reel usually goes for $500-$700), never realizing that the cost of my fly reel is but a small part of my annual fishing budget.
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I don't shoot production much but will be shooting a couple of matches this year so I can use my VP9, just need to get a holster for it. This was my first HK and liked it so well that I purchased a P2000sk to replace my Glock 26 for summer carry.
Funny enough I was considering a VP9 after I'd bought a p2000sk for my carry gun. But the OP convinced me not too as the VP9 was to be a range gun and by extension a competition gun (my home defense guns are Sig p229's) and that mag release, although IMHO fine for my carry gun I cannot get off fast mag changes like I can with my Sigs or the gun I ended up with for competition.
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Here's how I lower the hammer all the way down, which IMO is the safest way.
1. Put your weak hand thumb between the hammer and firing pin.
2. Cock the hammer back with your strong hand thumb so it takes all the spring pressure and pull the trigger.
3. Lower the hammer onto your weak hand thumb and release the trigger, now the firing pin block is engaged if you slip.
4. Lower the hammer onto half-cock with your strong hand thumb as you retract your weak hand thumb.
5. Pull back on the slide slightly until the slide contacts the hammer, but not so far back that it cocks it again, and pull the trigger.
6. If you have the slide back the right amount, the sear should release and the hammer should gently follow the slide down to fully decocked.
7. As a final step, I pull back slightly on the hammer again so that the FPB can engage again. It won't "click" in with the hammer pressure pushing the FP forward. This means the gun is now drop safe should it come out of your holster or you really screw up the draw.
It sounds complicated, but it's really not and after you do it a couple times, it's very quick and easy. It's a lot more stress free IMO, as there's virtually no way the gun can go off if you slip at any point.
What if your CZ doesn't have an FB? (I'm not trying to be a wiseguy, I'm new to CZs and for now I use my support hand to grasp the hammer to lower it but it makes me a bit nervous that I'll slip...and isn't that a DQ if you do an ND in an event?)
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JAFO, I don't think it's the weight...I thought of that too when I was at the range and tried an experiment. 1 mag with just 1 live round would release the slide - and I really didn't need a lot of oomph, just my normal slide it in there did the trick. The same thing would not work with a snap cap. Did it back and forth and the live round was enough to release slide.
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I got my Shadow Custom in January and due to a harsh Northeast winter (snow and freezing temps) I didn't get to live fire it until yesterday. I love it, awesome gun. Mostly shot at steel targets and I just couldn't seem to miss, either using only DA or rapid firing. Such a great trigger. I LOVE this gun. Can't wait to compete with it. As far as I'm concerned well worth the price. Now I have to probably get a second one as a backup for matches after I get my feet wet in USPSA.
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I'd get the subcompact except I hear the holster variety is pretty limited. I have an H&K P2000SK in a Stealthgear IWB holster and love it - I never notice it when I'm carrying and I'd want the same type holster for this as well. If Stealthgear were to make one I'd get a Sphinx Subcompact in a heartbeat.
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If you have yourself a M&P, all you have to do is insert the mag with a little umph and the slide will "auto release". No fumbling with gross vs fine motor skills!
I finally got out to the range after a long winter (my range also has a 24/7 indoor range but I dislike shooting there, I like outdoor shooting a lot more) and found out to my pleasant surprise that my new CZ Shadow Custom also releases the slide when I insert the mag with a bit of oomph (yes I know, how could I wait so long to try out a new pistol - trust me, it was killing me to only dry-fire with it...but I hate freezing temps and refuse to freeze my butt off while shooting). Funny thing is that it won't do it with a snap cap - anyone know why that is? So my question has morphed into - since my pistol does close the slide on it's own when a mag is inserted, doesn't it generally make more sense to just shoot to slide lock before a reload except possibly where I might have part of a stage that requires 6 rounds and the next one requires 10, then it might make sense to do a reload between stages rather than have to do a reload in the middle of that second 10 round section?
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ZZt is right. I had to do the same thing. You also have to drill a hole in the front of the pouch for allen wrench access to the screw.
Drilling a hole would help but I didn't know for certain if I wanted to stick with the bullets out mounting so I found that using an Allen key with a ball end let me tighten and loosen the Allen screw very quickly and only resorted to using the short end of the wrench for final tightening. Funny thing is a couple of the Allen keys that came with the DAA Racers have the ball end (I have a set of Craftsman one's with the ball ends that I used).
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Glock 34 or the XDM 5.25. Just be aware that if you start reloading you'll have the added expense of swapping out the barrel in the Glock (unless you're like several of my friends who just "chance it" and claim they don't have leading issues with the polygonal rifling...
What are the issues with polygonal rifling? I've never heard of that before you mentioned it.
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@theautobah, I hear you, that was my original purpose of getting handguns...however that said, I practice with both my intended competition setup and my carry setup. I honestly don't think I will get into a situation where I need to do a 1 second reload so I tried bullets out and I do find that it allows me to keep my pouches closer together and I seem to grasp my magazine a bit more consistently after a few sessions.
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Is it legal for USPSA production class?
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Index finger on bullet for reloading
in Miscellaneous BEginners
Posted
Okay I have been working my way towards my first USPSA match, live fire and lots and lots of dry fire practice. Just haven't had the time yet to make it out for my first match. Anyway been working a lot on reload drills, specifically drills from Ben Stoeger's books. On most of them I've achieved the "advanced" times and of course most of that comes from gun handling like the draw and especially reloads themselves. On most videos and sources I've found on the web they say that when I pull the magazine out from the pouch to pull it with my index finger on the bullet. Well, I don't have large hands and I've found that it's difficult to consistently grasp the magazine far down enough that I pull out the mag in that position. I can do it for a stretch if I really try to do it but then I revert back to having my index finger about 2/3 way up the mag. How do most of you have your index finger positioned? If I'm achieving (and beating) the times in Stoeger's book for advanced level does it really matter (i.e., do you think it would help me be even faster or more consistent)?