Runnin2live
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Posts posted by Runnin2live
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I recently purchased one of the custom FCU’s and I am pretty happy with it. Shortly there after bought a full size weighted grip and a complete M17 upper. Then added a DPP. This is my first Sig in years so I don’t have a lot to compare to.
The trigger is lighter than my buddies stock 320 and reset feels about the same. I do plan on putting some lighter springs in it to see how it helps.
of course, @iflyskyhigh,my opinion is to buy one of the FCU’s and therefore you have another gun
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I did pick up a 43x Saturday and dropped the slide before I bought. It came with the new trigger bar. I haven’t shot it yet, but I will soon
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Looks great! Nice details in the video. Thanks for sharing.
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Ya that’s a good idea. I am working on a mobile plate rack of sorts.
I got a few pepper poppers now that are a bit thin at 40. But I just need to slow down and focus.
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I recently used impact machine. That’s where my local Houston gunsmiths send theirs now since they don’t do the milling anymore. That did great for me.
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That looks like it would give a more appealing site picture than the bevertail setup I used.
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Sounds like fun stuff. I am limited to 40 yards max at our range.
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G26 is my carry and has been for years. The more draw practice and getting comfortable would help.
I personally keep this size because got me it’s easier to manage the grip when carrying -
Practice, practice and more. If your live firing, try double taps with a reholster for a mag or two. Then move to doubles on two targets. Just a suggestion
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Chillin on the couch!
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A custom I did a while back
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That will definitely work. I had a older Colt set up with one of these. I did it before I had it milled to make sure I liked it.
it did exactly what I wanted but I did find that the red dot was higher and didn’t feel easy at first finding the dot, being higher. Maybe it was just me.
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I’ve been running for years. I’ll stay away from the CrossFit but wish you all luck. Stay consistent and stick with it.
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On 3/21/2022 at 10:57 AM, Speedwagon said:
I'm fairly new to reloading, I'm assuming this is stepped brass? I've only seen this in steel cases that I discard.
The FW Arms decapper with the small pin does a good job on the Norma cases.
There is nothing worse IMHO then snapping the recapping pin if these aren’t found proactively
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I don’t see why the rails can’t be re worked by a good smith. Also not sure why a new slide would be needed since the slide rails run inside the frame.
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I used a vibratory tumbler for years and had some decent outcome. Really shiny brass took me many many hours of tumbling. I switched over to wet tumbling with stainless pins and in 2 hours, the brass is crazy shiny.
as for rifle cases and removing the lube. I always deprime prior to tumbling so add an extra lube pad since it will get pretty nasty after a while.
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Yep, seems to be that when primers are found for $100 for 1000 is a great deal these days
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I have a Holosun 407c x2. For me it’s very functional.
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Another vote for red hill. Mine is made with an Olight. The can do it for the frame weight
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I have had several Springfields. Years back got one of the stainless operators. After a little safety polishing and trigger work. It still smooth and reliable.
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I do agree that prep is completely where it’s at. If your using an airbrush get some Duracoat. It is a two part system and you need a respirator but super durable coating. It will last a long long time
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I also use the lighter #11 spring in mine. Mine felt more sluggish with the heavier spring.
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Has anyone used KME SPP’s? These are loose bulk boxes of 2000. I tried to do some searching on here and the interweb and can’t seem to find anything referencing them. Prices are still high but consistent with the market
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That came out really nice and was exactly what I was talking about. Great work and example
Para 18.9 LDA
in 1911-style Pistols
Posted
If your going to do this yourself, I would start with a trigger pull gauge to see where you are. Then I would tear the gun down, do a complete clean and fully polish every part, trigger channel and then put it back together to see where that got you. Also, make sure your hammer spring is the “RIGHT” one for the load you are shooting.
This practice with give you knowledge of the internal parts and see any wear or exactly what your working with.
There are a few jugs out there that you can get. One for the sear only, one for trigger to sear mating and even some bench blocks have pin positions for the hammer to sear mate up.
I know I didn’t give you a name of a jig, but this is how I address my 1911 triggers and I’m running a reliable #3 across all mine.