Warpdrv
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Posts posted by Warpdrv
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I had the same issue and the alignment tool dillon sent me fixed it right up...
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hahahaha I wonder if they unload those at a discount when they are returned for not working..... I'd be willing to bet they have a guy that just reopens the box to get them working and sell those returns as new on discount.....
I got one of the two I bought that didn't work, and gave it a smack as well and its been working ever since....
They are hit and miss, with a few tweaks they do pretty good.... I do like my Dillon RF100, but they are spendy bleotches.....
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Just use a bracket on the bench and screw into the wall, hitting a 2x4.....
When you remove the screws - just use tooth paste to fill the hole and smooth it out, it will turn white when it drys....
Renters trick....
Screw down into the floor and through the carpet , they will never know after you remove the screws there either....
Problem solved...
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This is how I made my bench..... then used 1.5" butcher block for the top.
Stole the idea from here.... http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_42/319362_.html
Just adjust the measurements to the size you want...
I added a couple support beams to the middle same as B & C in pics...
Super happy with the results and that thing aint moving....
Cost was pretty reasonable......
Height was 36"
I used some Butcher Block Tops lag bolted from the bottom.... 36" x 72" sealed up with Teak Oil
I could have pinched penny's but money was no object and it was still very reasonable.
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Also helps in determining velocities for subsonic vs supersonic - for use in shooting my guns with suppressors....
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Hows about getting those autodrive deals.....
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there will always be a few primers that make it to the ski jump if you have a full primer plate, and no brass on deck, as well as when your at the end of your run - your last piece of brass has to make it all the way around to the finish bin, how do you stop the primer plate from turning when your pulling the handle.
I generally leave my 650's in the process of loading and just place a few inverted bullets over charged cases in the shell plate and walk away. So when I need more of that load I just remove the inverted bullets and start cranking. Much faster production that having to start from an empty machine and run it empty at the end.
It for some reason I want to stop the flow of primers, I keep a ziptie looped around the failsafe bracket, just lift the indexing arm and pull it back and loop the ziptie around it. 2 seconds to turn the system on or off.
jmorris, Thanks for that - that is a fantastic tip that in all the reading I have done to prepare and acclimate myself to the 650's ahead of time I have not seen.
That should certainly help minimize the good primers down the ramp for me....
I'm still not as smooth on my machines as I should be but I'm getting better the more I use them....
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I think its more of an issue of before or after you run a batch that your pulling the handle to get cases moving into or out of the system, there will always be a few primers that make it to the ski jump if you have a full primer plate, and no brass on deck, as well as when your at the end of your run - your last piece of brass has to make it all the way around to the finish bin, how do you stop the primer plate from turning when your pulling the handle.
I'm a newer reloader but I can't wrap my head around how you eliminate those two things from happening....
Of coarse, those seasoned veterans perhaps have better timing on all this or your a magician and have absolutely perfect timing to match the exact amount of brass to the primers...... please feel free to educate us imbusil's
I ordered that kit for each of mine - seems like a nice addition for us freshy's.... In all honesty - this seems like something that should be part of the Eno's How it should be parts kit add-ons, perhaps more like how it should have come from the factory to begin with....The spent primer bin with electrical tape around the edges is a good enough fix as one spends less time/worry with waste as you do trying to recover good product.
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single stage here and added dual 650's.....
They are not as beastly as you would think, sure some learning curve but well worth it... Small and large primer was the key that sold me.... Plus having a machine for 45 and 9mm at the same time is awesome, with the flexibility of switching to load rifle is a big plus...
Precision on the single stage, bulk on the twins....
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This is how I made my bench..... then used 1.5" butcher block for the top.
Stole the idea from here.... http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_42/319362_.html
I added a couple support beams to the middle same as A & C in pics...
Super happy with the results and that thing aint moving....
Cost was pretty reasonable......
Height was 36"
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I got the skylight kit for both of my 650's..... I'm very happy with them, even though I have a good amount of light above and around my bench - these make all the difference in the world....
Can you do you own for cheaper - sure, but it seems like they really spent the time getting this laid out just right and installs very easy & quickly.
I do like the ingenuity of members making their own stuff, look forward to the results...
The Skylight is super bright and machined to fit perfectly with the right amount of cable to route, and the strip LED's are the perfect length and very bright as well. Tons of light flooded into the work place. I ended up routing the power for my casefeeder and the light kit up to the ceiling area so none of the electrical chords are laying about on the bench....
Super Happy with the investment...
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I massaged my ramp back into order a bit, but again the weight of the bucket wants to make it bend more - I ran a ziptie around the frame and that ramp and no more issues.... worked great....
I swear I'm going to abandon that blue bucket hanging on there, extend the ramp to a much larger box that sits on the bench....Next project...
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Here ya go - this should make quicker work of that swager of yours you already have.....
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Honestly at first I felt that after all the drama with the used machine I bought that I should have bought new, as I was getting so frustrated with all the stuff not working properly. But now I'm glad I did get this beat up machine. It has forced me to learn everything I could possibly need to know about each and every minute little detail about the function and all the mechanisms that need to work together as a whole. It may have cost me a bit of money and time but in the long run I have gained the knowledge which is priceless.
I want to thank you all for your help. Can't tell you how many posts I have read to figure out related issues and solving some of my problems that just don't come from the book.
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Well Dillon sent me out some replacement parts I ordered and I also got the alignment tool. Followed the procedure, cleaned and lubed it all up and back together again.... Alignment issue has been cured, ran out 100 rounds of 147gr 9mm and all went very very well, much better now....shell plate is less jumpy as well.
Makes me very happy....
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What exactly do you mean by horrible ergos ?!?!
I don't own an expert but I have pretty much all the rest of the HK lineup...
seems to me their layouts are all pretty much all the same.
FWIW - You can easily switch to the bobbed hammer in a few minutes with the right part from HK...
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I'm surprised no one mentioned Giessele triggers. They are great triggers and have a wide variety of flavors.
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One other step to take is to loosen the die lock ring on the powder measure, and run a sized case up into the powder measure, activating it. With the measure activated and the handle down, now snug the die lock ring. This ensures the powder die is centered in the threaded hole in the toolhead.
This will give you a preview of the alignment instructions. Should fix your issue.
HR
Thank Sir - that is very much appreciated, I like to have the info before I get started to be familiar with it...
One other step to take is to loosen the die lock ring on the powder measure, and run a sized case up into the powder measure, activating it. With the measure activated and the handle down, now snug the die lock ring. This ensures the powder die is centered in the threaded hole in the toolhead.
Thanks - yes I have done that, in fact I did this with brass in all locations, loosened all the die lock rings and retightened for proper alignments at all stations.
This machine was in such neglect - I really should have bought a new one, or sent this to you guys for a rebuilt but I'm persistently making it right.
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I had the same thing happen to my 9mm shell plate..... I sent it to dillon, they sent me a new one.... No problem but the down time.
More then likely the reason it happened was that the platform is not in alignment, the shell plate is not in the right spot when the primer punch is coming up.
It probably happened a number of times until the shell plate couldn't take the stress any more.... They have a alignment tool that they will send you free, some have had to pay shipping - some not.... I would suggest you call them and ask about the alignment tool, and ask if they will put it in with the new shell plate - ask them how much and offer to pay for the tool and shipping. They will likely take care of you free of charge if your the non-pushy type.....
This is also a good reason to have a spare conversion kit for each caliber you are running, if you have an issue like this - grab your extra shell plate and send off the damage to Dillon, no down time while they replace it...
+1 on the case lube.... Spray into a plastic ziplock a bit, ya don't need much. than close it up and toss that brass salad....
dump them into the case feeder and away you go...
Good Luck...
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Got an alignment tool coming from Dillon. I'll see how that pans out.
THAT IS THE SOUND OF INEVITABILITY !
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So this is not normal for everyone then - the powder die is in perfect alignment for other people here ?!?!
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OK, I bought this machine used and have replaced a bunch of parts, but I'm noticing this on my other brand new machine as well, but not as severe....
I'm loading 9mm on this machine, and 45 on the other. but both machines o this.
Please refer to the video, it explains the whole thing. But basically the powder drop is not aligned with the shell plate and causes the shell plate to want to shift when loading, creating a bit of movement.
Is this normal, The platform is perfectly aligned with the primer punch directly in the middle of the shell plate, If I were to adjust the platform to suit the powder drop, then the primer punch is not properly aligned to the center of the shell plate...
Thoughts ?
Thanks
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But - it makes you a better shooter, don't cha know
THAT IS THE SOUND OF INEVITABILITY !
NEW MATCH GRADE COATED BULLETS
in General Reloading
Posted
I picked up a couple of boxes of the 147 Flat Nose bullets and will be testing them out with Titegroup....
Gotta get my Chrono out again and see how they come out. These new coated bullets are extremely impressive to me since I shoot mostly suppressed with everything I shoot.... 45 & 9. The Coating is extremely thick and the bullets are super smooth with what seems to be extremely uniform shape surface as well as super low weight deviation from one bullet to the next on the scale. Put them on a scale yourself and see how close each bullet weight is from one to the next.
Also - give this a try, take a coated bullet and put a propane torch to one.... watch as the coating doesn't even really break down before the lead melts behind it... I like what I see here - can't wait to get them out and run them.... will report back when I get some down the barrel....
Good Luck and Happy Shooting guys.....