festus1
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Posts posted by festus1
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Hey Sheriff,
I have 2 Ti cyl 45's and had the cylinders coated with Birdsong Black T. I've never had an issue with sticking cases and cleanup is a wipe away with an oily cloth. Good luck in your search.
W E Birdsong & Associates Inc
1435 Monterey Rd
Florence, MS 39073
Phone:(601) 939-7448
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Festus, I saw an interesting doohicky at the IRC. It was a collapsible metal device with a hook at the end. It was used by one of my squad mates to pick up his moon clips without having to bend down. When collapsed it fit in your pocket.
Thanks! That's a great idea - something I might be able to make from a collapsible inspection mirror or collapsible pointer.
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Here is the info for the Blue Press article:
http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=79661&hl=255 grain&st=0
My experience in a 625 w/ 4" barrel:
45 ACP
255 LSWC (45 Colt)
3.2 Clays
1.205 OAL
166.7 PF
It is very consistant - I can't find my notes, just the above info. To me, it feels very soft compared to some 230 grain loads at that PF.
I bought a SA army and none of our boys were very interested in it so I sold it. That was why I experimented - to use up the .45 Colt bullets I had.
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I talked to North Mountain today and they sell the big butt rubber grips for the square butt. So I could either modify it like Carmoney suggested or just get the appropriate grip. I really like the Bayou bullets, would like to see if they work first, and then will look at the option of switching to jacketed if I have to. I started looking for a 25-2 and found a couple on Gunbroker today. If I can find one locally I'll do that first and then get one from Gunbroker or somewhere else. As always I appreciate all the help. Will keep you posted.
On some mod 25's the cyl throats were oversize and accuracy was not good in those particular guns. I bought one in 45 Colt w/ an 8 3/8" barrel that was one of "those" guns that shot patterns rather than groups. I had the barrel turned in and a .45 Ti cyl fitted to it. That solved the accuracy issue in a big way - it will shoot almost one hole groups at 20 yds. off hand. No exaggeration, just the way it turned out. As for bullets, I have used lead, berry's plated, Buyou, Billy, and jacketed. None stand out as being inaccurate. I think changing the cyl took care of that. If you do get a 25 in ACP that lags in accuracy, you could try a new SS cylinder. That might take care of the issues. To do it over again, I think I'd like a 6 or 6 1/2" barrel better than the 8". But not enough to cut mine down. I use a blad-tech competition holster that I modified a bit. As for the square grip, I have Jerry's grips for it and a couple of Hogues. Hogue makes most of their grips in both Rd and Sq. Good luck w/ your quest.
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Hello all,
I just want to find out if anyone maybe using this type of setup and if it is worth doing. I am looking at having my cylinder cut for moons and investing in some .38 SC brass. All opinions welcome.
Since this is up again, I'll share what i did. I bought a 6" mod 14-7 K frame and had it cut for moons and use starline short colt brass for uspsa. I have a lot of arthritis and it is a nice change from a 625 even at minor. I have a 4 inch 66-4 I had cut for moons as a backup. It is fine for ssr in idpa also (I called hq and was told if using 38's in speed loaders a cyl cut for moons is fine). I have arthritis in almost every other joint also so bending down to chase brass is not in the cards. Picking up a few moons is fine though. Even though I can use 38's w/ spd loaders or 45 auto rim in speed loaders for idpa at a rediculous power factor, I still would rather grin and bear the recoil with a 625 and moons in esr and not have to chase brass. Plus even at major matches you get all the brass back. Going to the range to practice with several hundred loaded moons is a lot more enjoyable (to me anyway) than messing with speed loaders and single rounds. Moons arn't cheap, but with a little care they can last a good while. If you do get your gun setup for moons, don't wory - using ammo w/o the moon clips still works just fine.
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On sdm's I have drilled the front end thru (measure your f/o rod for bit size). I use super glue on only the front of the replacement rod and push back thru to the rear so that the end of rod is fluch with the rear face of the sight. That way there is no big 'blob' of rod to contend with when looking at the sights. After the glue sets up use a razer knife to cut off the front of the rod. To replace next time, break in the middle and pull the rear out and use the drill bit to clean out the front hole to replace.
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In the Hodgdon Load Center (http://data.hodgdon.com/cartridge_load.asp) the max Clays load with both 230 lead and 230 jacketed is listed as 4.0.
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Blade-tech makes a competition holster similar to 002 now. Tension is adjustable and it is open front. I like it better.
http://www.blade-tech.com/Speed-Rig-D-OS-Holster-pr-1314.html
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Well, I do indeed want to be formal, but I'm also here to party. I think that describes a mod 25 w/ a Ti cylinder to a T. However, a Ti cyl with Birdsong Black T is even a tad more "black tie".
Palmetto Sharpshooter, if you get your Ti cyl coated with the black Birdsong finish that should take care of the sticking. Before I had mine coated I noticed some sticking but that totally went away after getting the coating. I have never used a brush in the cylinder - just wiped it out with an oily patch once in while followed with dry patches.
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Bob Houzenga email: staysafe@q.com midwesttraininggroup.net
Awesome work, very fast turn around, and he knows all about carry guns (chief of police for years).
If it were me, I'd lose the lock on that 329. Way back when the 340s came out I got one and it locked up on the 2nd trip to the range. After taking out the lock and plugging the hole it has worked great for hundreds of rounds over the years I've had it.
There are endless debates on the internet about it - NOT STARTING ONE HERE. Just a heads up to you on it if you are not aware. Do a google search and you can read all the pros and cons ELSEWHERE of getting rid of it. The new centennials are available lock free (only the centennials however).
Chris
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I have several revos that Apex has done up. Certainly one of (if not the) premier smith for revos. I have held and played with one of their 617's and you will be very happy with what they would do for you.
Bob Houzenga just did up a 629 and when I got it back I thought he had set it up for competition instead of hunting. It is very nice and does go bang with any factory stuff I put in it. He has a very fast turn around if that is important to you and does amazing work. He runs Midwest Training Group (midwesttraininggroup.net) and his email is:
staysafe@q.com STAYSAFE@Q.COM
Chris
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Amerigun has done quite a few tritium front sights for me. They do great work. Here is their web address:
You can send them your front sight and have them put the insert in or buy a front sight from them. I have had them put a white ring around the tritium - it stands out better in daylight. I believe they do the smithing for Trijicon.
Chris
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I am a bit puzzled buy the fact I seem to have to be 0.3gr higher than a lot of shooters (and the max charge on Hodgdon's website) with either powder to make Major. I have used two different Chrono's so I am pretty sure that is not the problem.
My guess is the fact that I am using Montana Gold Bullets with their heavy brass jackets and the longer OAL of 1.255. It seems those that are able to make Major with the lighter charges are using lead or moly. What do you guys think?
My 4" 625 makes major+ with 3.8 grains of Clays and 230 Billy Bullets. The moly coating does make a big difference.
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I had Apex put a Ti acp cylinder in a 25-5 I found and mill the barrel to screw in a bit further in the frame to match up with the shorter acp cylinder. The gun was not very accurate with the 45 colt cylinder because of oversize throats but it is a one hole tack driver now.
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What kind of sights are on that J frame? D&L, Bowen or something else?
Both guns have Bowen rear sights and Trijicon front sights. Gary McVety at Amerigun USA did the work. I opened up both of the rears a good bit with a file - both deeper and wider. Keeping all rounds in the A zone at 25 yrds is not that hard. With the stock sights, not so much.
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Can anyone shed some light on a speed loader for a 5 shot snub that clears the grips? I have tried the HKS and have to release the rounds barely in the cylinder and Comp 1s and while I like the mechanism better that bind up just as bad if not worse than the HKS loaders. Are people modifying the loaders or grips? Is there a model of grips that makes loading a bit easier?
Lee
Here is what I did to make speed loaders and moon clips work better. I don't have a better pic of the 60 but I cut out a good bit of material on its grip also. Not real pretty but very functional.
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Hello: I took the one apart that worked perfectly from the start and the others that have not worked. Guess what the perfect one is bored the same all the way through. The others have a step in them that is hanging up the 45 Auto Rim brass. I guess I will just modify them instead of sending them back
I would think that they would have better quality control than that 
Oh well live and learn. I appreciate the tip guys. Thanks, EricThe ones I have for 45AR are marked V-275 on the end of the trigger and the ones for .44mag are marked V-277. Maybe you have 2 different kinds?
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So, are they good bad or indifferent. I had a stainless cylinder (10 shot) fitted to my 617-2 and now have a new unfired aluminum cylinder assy as a "spare". Is it a paper weight or usefull?
Tom, I have the 17-8 ten shot w/ alum cyl. I had it at the 3 days of revo in Iowa a couple of years ago. You should have spoken up then and you could have played w/ it! I like it and have not had any problems. Don't know if you remember but I had sent it to S&W for an old mod 17 thin barrel which ended up cutting the groups in half at 25 yds. Anyway, I bought it with the thought of putting a thin blue barrel on it because the 17-8 was the only ten shot blue that waw made. Shooting back and forth w/ a 617 ten shot it "seems" to me to go easier / faster with the lighter alum cyl. If I remember ok I think I only had 1 fail to fire at that match.
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You can always use a small file to widen/deepen the notch. A round rat tail file will give you a U shape notch. For me, getting the rear notch wider so there is a good bit of light on each side of the front sight helps a lot with both precision and speed. I'd get rid of the hammer spur right off - it won't help you in ANY game or defensive situation. The only exception might be an 80 - 100 yd plus hunting shot. Or so says one of my sons.
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Check Apex Tactical's web site for their new blades.
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I have a 17-8 w/ 6" barrel and use a Millet .410 plain target rear and one of Warren's (toolguy) fiber optic front sights that is .250 tall and .100 wide. I have filed the rear sight notch a little deeper and wider.
Looking forward to see what's on your desk toolguy!
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Way to go Pat! It was great to meet you and hang out at the Iowa match last summer. Hope to see you next year. Chris
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I have a C&S fixed on a carry gun. I sighted it in with 38+p by filing down the front and then had a tritium insert put in. If I put a couple of washers under the rear sight screws it raises poa so .357's will work fine. I also had to file a little on one side of the sight to adjust for windage. For IDPA competition I would think an adjustable would work better. I use a higher rear and front and file the rear notch deeper and a little wider.
Chris
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S&W has a patridge sight for that gun. It might be easier to make into a fiber optic. Not sure what the number is but I did order one from them.
I would think that they would have better quality control than that 
Oh well live and learn. I appreciate the tip guys. Thanks, Eric
38 Short Colt, 158/160gr bullet, Tightgroup. Will it work, where to s
in Revolver Forum
Posted
I have two 625's w/ Ti cylinders and two 7 shot L frame's w/ Ti cylinders that I had all coated with Birdsong Black T. That totally did away with any sticking and cleaning is a breeze. In fact Birdsong said to stay away from even brass brushes and just use an oily patch. I'll throw that out there, maybe it will be of help.
For 38 short colt I've been using:
2.9 grains of Titegroup
160 grain Bayou bullets
OAL of 1.169
Out of a six inch 586 w/ Ti cyl. I get 126 PF ave.