Poseidon215
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Posts posted by Poseidon215
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On 3/3/2022 at 5:55 PM, Sinister4 said:
I did a 100 yard range with a handgun bay at the backstop, big enough to set up any steel stage, added a 50 yard line as well just a LOT of dirt moving and measuring, be sure to get it totally flat as well.... used to be able to shoot 300 yards but due to homes and such we are limited to 100 yard now.
Judging by the scenery in the background I would think you could reach out miles. Either way this is a sweet setup. I like the concrete blocks but I dont think my compact tractor would be able to move them. Our property has a low spot right in the middle which would be the furthest I would shoot and measures around 300yds. Just need to clear lanes and make an area like yours for steel/pistol. Thanks!
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I went with a RCA Titanium BCG. I tuned in my gas block and then made fine tweaks with the adjustable gas key on the BCG. Coupled with a JP Silent Captured System it shoots crazy flat and light. Probably moreso than my AR15. I would shoot it more if ammo was cheaper.
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I used to use a tumbler with corn cob/walnut media, some concoction of nu finish or brass cleaner/polish. It ended up being way more work and very dirty/dusty.
Do yourself a favor go get the frankford Platinum tumbler. Dont use the stainless media. Just add hot water and Dawn dish soap and turn the timer to 2 hours. When its done you will be amazed at the nasty water that comes out but your brass will look fantastic. Then I just lay them out on a towel and let them dry or setup a fan to dry them quicker.
This works just as well for any caliber even rifle.
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I have been trying to figure out the most economical way to build a practice range that would allow me to shoot both handgun and rifle without taking up a ton of space. I thought about setting up a covered bench facing down the longest part of our property with staggering backstops at various distances. Then at an angle from the bench setup a pistol bay 30-50yds deep.
What have some of you done for at home practice as well as making it convenient to sight in and practice with long guns? Id like to see some layouts or pics to give me ideas on what to do this summer.
I also have an electric thrower I thought about setting up with a little shelter. Everyone like busting clays once in a while.
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I have shot over 50k through my 5.25 with everything from hot factory loads all the way down to super slow 147gr over titegroup without a hitch. I do run a wolf 16lb recoil spring and springer trigger but it has never let me down. I have thought about adding an optic so Ill keep this in mind that it may require a heavier load than anticipated.
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We will never see the days of $25/k ever again. Greed and demand have shown that a large amount of people will tolerate these crazy prices. We can hope they drop all we want but I think those days are gone. The saying of "I wish I would have bought more back then definitely hurts now" unless you somehow managed to stash away hundreds of thousands of primers, we will have to buy them sooner or later.
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Tac is a great all around powder that will function well in your AR and Bolt gun. If you want to start tweaking for accuracy then look at heavier projectiles and my two favorite powders are 8208 and Varget.
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Its one of those "All the cool kids are doing it" I must buy one or twelve. 6 months later you move onto the next thing.
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I use titegroup for 9 40 and 45 with great results just have to be mindful of the low volume required. I have also had decent results with unique, bullseye, WST, 700x, etc
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I am just bulk processing at the moment to get ready for 3 Gun season. The press is properly adjusted and timed. There is almost no play in the ram or shellplate
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Ok so I just got my RT1500 all set up on my LnL and I have been trying to dial it in to trim to 1.75 but I cannot get any consistency no matter what I try.
Currently my die setup is
Station 1 - Decap
Station 2 - open
Station 3 - Trim/Size
Station 4 - Open
Station 5 - Open
I am getting anywhere from 1.740 to 1.755 which seems excessive to have 15 thousands variance. What is considered acceptable? Is anyone else running a similar setup or have any hints top tricks they have learned along the way?
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Ok these are 180gr precision delta FMJ. I went ahead and tested these loads. They were fired out of a Glock 22.
3.3gr TG @ 1.125"
809
780
813
798
796
787
776
812 = 796.375 for PF - 143.347
This load is still too hot. May have to drop it all the way down to 3.0gr.
4.4gr TG @ 1.125"
963
932
932
951
953
932
930 = 941.857 for PF - 169.534
This will probably be the one. Just have to test it out of an STI and a Glock 35.
4.5gr TG @ 1.125" (just for the hell of it)
962
971
955
949
952 = 957.8 for PF - 172.404
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Like the title says, I'm trying to work up a major and minor load with titegroup with 180gr loaded at 1.125"
I was thinking about trying 3.3, 3.4, 3.5 for minor and 4.4, 4.5, and 4.6 for major.
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I run a safariland on an els belt with 5 mags for uspsa production
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Ok looks like 2 votes for the eagle. Are there any other options for 2011 besides like an SVI or a completely custom built?
I reload so ammo definitely isn't a problem though finding enough components to keep a decent stock can be challenging
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Ok, I have been shooting SSP and production, but I want to branch out into limited and esp. I am looking for opinions on what to buy that I can run both divisions with and make little to no changes between the two. Obviously this would be 40S&W running major in limited and minor in esp. Initially I was thinking something along the lines of an STI 2011 but I know quite a few people that still had to get them worked over by a gunsmith before they used them.
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The bullet is unmarked there is no ring around it like you would get from the crimp being too tight
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Im using 180gr precision delta that are rounded with the small flat tip.
Yea I have found the FCD to be awesome for 9mm especially with 147gr bullets as the cases like to get the coke bottle shape to them.
Yea, that is how I have the die adjusted, just so the flare is gone, but it is a serious hangup on the
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The FCD basically squeezes the top of case to crimp it. And the floating crimp piece is segmented, which when pushed up by the brass case against the inside top of the die, closes around the top of the loaded round. So when you withdraw the case, and release the pressure, it's supposed to open again and release the round. It sounds like where the floating crimp piece presses against the inside of the die, may be a little rough and it's sticking closed when released. Take out the floating piece and make sure there's no burrs or rough spots on outside surface of it, or on the inside top of the die body. Polish them a little if you can. And then slightly lube the outside face of the floating piece before putting back in die.
Btw, all my FCD have some of this resistance when withdrawing loaded rounds. Depending on the thickness of the brass, some resistance more than others. Usually S&B, and CBC brass sticks the most.
I removed the piece already cleaned it and lubed it but that did not help. The way it is designed the insert is just tapered on the inside so the further you screw it down the more it crimps, but there is no closing or opening, it is a static piece. My 9mm and 45acp dies do not have any resistance whatsoever when coming out of the Lee FCD.
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147gr bayou over 3.0 TG @ 1.155 makes 140pf out of my XDm 5.25
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No i havent tried calling them yet I figured I would try here first in case it was a simple fix but I will give them a call tomorrow and see whats they suggest. The other option is swapping it at the store, maybe I just got a bad one
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i would try 2 things first. lube your case if you don't do so already. Second is take out the ring and polish it
Lubing doesn't do anything and polishing the carbide ring won't help because that is not the problem. The floating crimp piece inside the die is sticking to the case mouth after crimping. The heavier the crimp the more it sticks. If I turn the crimp all the way out so it never touched the case then it runs through like butter but without any crimp
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Yes I just use the FCD for crimping. The carbide ring is bigger than the sizing die so most pieces of brass don't even touch it. The case mouth is sticking to the crimping insert inside the FCD
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I have been reloading 9mm and 45ACP for quite a while now, but I am getting into 40 for when I build my 2011 limited gun. I am using a Lee Carbide set on a LnL AP. I do not use the expander since I use the Powder Funnel. So my problem is the loaded rounds are hanging up in the FCD. I took it apart cleaned it completely and reassembled it. I even took an empty case and tried to run it through but I got the same result. It feels fine just the tiny bit of resistance as it is crimping the case mouth but when I raise the lever to lower the ram, the round hangs up in the die and causes the whole press to jump. I am not sure what exactly to do. It definitely gets worse the more you crimp. When I had it apart I determined that It is hanging on the insert used for crimping. This cant be normal. I just purchased the die so there literally might be 20 rounds through it as I was playing with powder, flare, OAL, and crimping to get them where I want.
Building a Range at Home
in Training Techniques
Posted
One more reason I need to get a skid steer!