suncoastarmory
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Posts posted by suncoastarmory
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Glad to hear there is success with the brass tip. I may also do some polishing of the channel as well.Perfectly, I tried to go back to the blue tip, but that caused more problems, so back to the brass insert. I did have to polish the crap out of the slide channel, and I found that the actuating arm was sticking when it slide, once I cleaned that out, primer issues went away.
PM Sent. So how is the brass tip working for you? A friend was having an issue with his 1050 today and was talking with them on the phone. I sent him a text to ask about the brass tip knowing their response. They indeed did recommend it. But I'm curious how well it is working for you. I seemed to have had trouble since day 1 with my 1050 and priming. I have considered the new slide, but at $80 that seems steep.Hey, if you need some of the blue tips, I switched over to the brass tip insert, just pm me a shipping address and I'll mail them to you.
For reference, do you have the part # for the brass tip as well? After I work through the blue tips I may not have a choice but to try the brass tip.
Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk
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What's the deal on the brass tip?
Some are using the brass tip from the tube on the XL650, but Dillon does not recommend it due to the difference in the priming mechanisms on the 1050 and 650.
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Hey, if you need some of the blue tips, I switched over to the brass tip insert, just pm me a shipping address and I'll mail them to you.
PM Sent. So how is the brass tip working for you? A friend was having an issue with his 1050 today and was talking with them on the phone. I sent him a text to ask about the brass tip knowing their response. They indeed did recommend it. But I'm curious how well it is working for you. I seemed to have had trouble since day 1 with my 1050 and priming. I have considered the new slide, but at $80 that seems steep.
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Does anyone know the part # for the blue tip that goes on the small primer tube in the 1050? I have searched the internet over and Dillon's site and can't find a part number. I need to order a few things and just wanted to stock up a few. Also, has anyone here recently used the brass tip from the 650? Part #? I have had all kinds of priming issues and was thinking of trying the brass tip as well.
Thanks!
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I would be interested in these as well but dont want to be the first. Would like to see the quality first.
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Im not sure which number it is, but it looks like the longer spring is included in the parts kit. The short one may be as well, but I didn't open it up and get everything out to look. I may play with the cotter pin before I replace the springs. Seems to me its length could vary from being installed.What kind of silicone rubber is stronger than neoprene? You sure it's silicone? Silicone is NOT a strong material.
Now, a nice UHDPE tube would be good.
I live in the world where I want to solve the problem, but I would keep the rubber band around.
I have had few primer problems on my 1050s, and most of those were more my fault.
If a part shows wear, replace it.
I thought Dillon included the springs (13936 and 13844) in the spare parts kit?
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I'd like to have the new primer slide with the brass roll pin. But my 1050 only has 12k plus rounds through it and many were a struggle with priming. Id rather spend the 90 towards a caliber conversion. Just seems it should work better than this constant tinkering.
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Resurrecring this thread. I tore primer system down 3 times this morning to clean everything out. I may have to go back to my rubber band!Have a look at the bolt that holds the ratchet in place - part number 12486, page 27 of the manual - this activates the primer lever.
I had to replace 4 of mine, they were all grooved from wear.
I am on my 2nd 12486. Its getting a pretty good groove in it. Should these see this much wear? At this rate I need to order them by the pound.
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Depending on case primer pockets, consider setting up the swage rod.....
Careful -- if you make a mistake it's surprising easy to turn shell plates into paper weights.....
True story! Don't ask how I know.
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I replaced the primer slide that uses the rubber tube with the new primer slide from Dillon with the brass bushing. Expensive, but worth it IMHO. Have not had a missed one since
Do you happen to have a part number? I have heard of this new slide, and haven't been able to find it.
I did a couple weeks ago put some new vacuum hose on, that seemed to help. Between that and adjusting everything again it seem to be running better. But I am about to switch over to 5.56 for a while and hope i don't run in to problems again.
Thanks!
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I did adjust the swage a little bit, I do seem to be pretty consistent now in the 0-1 per 100 range.
I have the primer arm thing thats bolted to the primer tube cocked slightly to the left. That has always seemed to work best on my machine.
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Not having any of the parts currently, does a piece of PVC pipe or something work as the spacer?Yes you will be able to still use the cut down toolhead for other calibers. Can't say for sure about 308 but with 223 it will work fine. You will need to put something between the trimmer and vacuum attachment to keep it positioned right though.
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I have gone over most everything mentioned from the rubber piece to the sliding freely and such. I had initially did the case cut in half to get it set up initially but I believe I will go back and revisit this area again. Thanks.My problem with this was an incorrectly set up swaging station.
A cut-away case (use a dremel or even a hacksaw) makes this easier - remove half of the case head of a piece of brass with a crimped primer pocket.
Adjust the swage backup rod until it is eased fully in the case.
Adjust the swage depth until the primp is removed and there is enough bevel to allow easier and more consistent primer insertion.
Test a few crimped cases. This will help with ALL cases, not just crimped cases.
The last 2 steps are easier with a cut-away case.
If not already, adjust the plastic piece at the primer seating station so that there is enough space to allow the case to center itself over the primer/primer ram.
Getting the swaging right is what [finally] allowed me to load 1000 x 9mm in 30 minutes...not that I recommend running at this speed but it is possible with a properly adjusted 1050.
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When did you get your 1050? Mine is only a few months old and I have the rubber piece. I must have gotten one of the last ones.I have heard mention of the "rubber tube" you referenced in several threads. I have a fairly new (3 months) super 1050 and I don't have the rubber tube. There is a brass bushing on the post in the back of the primer slide and I'm wondering of the rubber tube has been replaced by that bushing? I have looked all over the primer assembly and can't find a rubber tube anywhere.
Thanks
rch
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True, I probably got ahead of myself. Thats more reasonable with the trigger and slide milling.A good trigger job can easily be $200 or more.
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I think thata high. You arent to far off from doubling the price of the gun.CZC is ready to go.
$818..... $318 for slide milling and trigger job...... don't know if that is fair price or not.
I have no idea what people pay for slide milling for a dot. Is it worth that?
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What's an acceptable amount of missed primers out of 100?
I get anywhere from 1-12 cases that miss a primer. Very frustrating.
Thanks!
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When you say "loose" is the knurled nut touching the primer tube?Make sure the anvil is fully seated in the slide, if it rides up the spring loaded cup can get too high and a resulting "bump" disrupts an otherwise correctly sitting primer.
The easiest way to make sure it's all the way down is to put a fired case, with the primer still in it, in to station 1 and loosen the set screw holding the anvil. Now apply pressure like your trying to seat the primer and hold while you snug the set screw backdown.
FWIW my machines seem to like the knurled nut that holds the tube in place to be loose.
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Im in the same boat and about the same rate of missed primers. I so not have the vacuum hose currently and am going to put that back on and see if that helps.
Thanks Jim,You could try looking at how the primer bar moves, to make sure there's no little bits of residue etc. that cause the bar to jerk when sliding back to position.
That was the first thing I did.
Everything looks and acts okay.
I don't get why it only does it sometimes. Like I said, maybe 10 out of 100.
Frustrating!
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That looks great! Did you do that yourself?
Sent from my LG-D850 using Tapatalk
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Nice review. Thanks for sharing.
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From what someone else said earlier they were going to have to pay extra to get the 34 MOS. I would think about getting the most expensive pistol and sell it then put the cash with it. You may end up with a 34 MOS quicker.
I've been unsuccessfully trying to locate a blue label 34 MOS. I've got a discount GSSF cert that's expiring in Oct. Might just have to use it on a G43 and not play in CO for a while...
Same boat here. I've been in contact with them since February, they kept saying to check back. I finally got the go ahead to orde, but have to wait for delivery. Oh well, I've been my whole life without a Glock, so it's not a big deal.I just got ahold of Glock yesterday regarding if I could use a glock certificate I won last year for a MOS G34 even though it doesn't state it is a option, the answer I received was Yes you Can, It won't be shipped out till late NOV early DEC, it will cost $172 extra.
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What has been your experience with the dovetail mount? Would be cheaper to try it out and see if you like it before buying a new gun thats already milled or milling an existing gun.There are a lot of mounts out there that fit into an existing dovetail, I have one on my XDM. No milling of the slide is required for most guns.
Tanfoglio Hunter sight options
in EAA / Tanfoglio Shop
Posted
I have just recently acquired a Hunter in 10mm for a friend. He doesn't care for the rear target sight, and wants to add a rear night sight or even something with dots or an outline.
Does anyone have any options for the rear on a Hunter?
Thanks!