Jimini
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Posts posted by Jimini
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On 1/14/2006 at 9:02 PM, tpe187 said:
Hi Guys,
I'm constantly hearing different information about maintenance on the Dillons. I have a 650 that I try to keep well maintained. What I would like to know is if anyone has ever come up with a diagram or a video that details where and what you should lubricate. I know the main shaft gets 30w motor oil and the center stud is supposed to be greased, but what else. The manual only mentions those two spots.
I remember when the machine was new there was grease on the shell locater, and on the plastic slide for the case feed and on the actuator for the primer advance. I don't see any mention of that in the manual. I also know that there are holes in the linkage that people grease. I don't have a grease gun that small, so I use oil.
I have the maintenace kit that has the syringe of grease, but no other mention of where to use it. What kind of grease is in this syringe anyway?
I know this has been asked before, but I couldn't find anything in my search. Maybe I'm not asking correctly. Any old links or directions to the info would be greatly appreciated.
As a caveat, I am only loading about 4K a year so no danger of it disintagrating on me and I know Dillon would replace anything that did.
Thanks.
Tom
anything that frictions against another part gets grease on my 650.
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Where did you get the blue tabs for your locator buttons?
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Yep. I cracked a slide on my Brazo but I replaced it with another Stainless. I like the look.
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N105 Vihtaviyru was the powder recommended by Bob at Brazo when I bought my gun. The amount of powder varies a bit with the lot number but mostly around 10 grains. It's a compressed load coupled with rifle primers but generates enough gas that the dot stays in the glass. I have also used IMR SR4756 with equally good results even though the IMR is slightly faster burn rate I had to move the power factor up to 180.
The problem is with that much powder I had to develop a special loading technique to prevent powder from splashing out when the press indexed. I moved the bullet seated dye next to the powder so It only had to index one time. I placed my finger on the case as it moved over to cushion the click.
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I don't see how a non-hybrid barrel would cause a problem. I would get it titanium nitride coating.
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I started with super and have stuck with it through two guns. I even bought a Colt 1911 that shoots super. I can testify that the guns and ammo were trouble free except the handle on my Brazzo cracked and gave me a fit until I discovered what was causing the issue. replaced the handle and never looked back.
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I measure the diameter of the spring wire AND OVER ALL LENGTH of a new spring and write that number on the package. I also have a special page in my reloading log book to keep such information. This allows me to pick up any spring, check the diameter of the wire and the overall length to compare with a known new spring.
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None that I've seen.
My 550 does not have grease zerks either. Purchased in December 06 from BrianEnos.com.
There are pilot holes (6 total / 2 for each pivot pin) that I suppose you could put zerks but I don't know why they didn't get put on at the factory? I don't know how else you could grease the pivot pins otherwise?
Okie
I have an older 650 that I lube with a product from Dualco. you can google dualco and find multiple places to obtain one of their grease guns. It's a very small pressure luber with a needle point that will exactly fit what looks like a pilot hole on the pivot pins. I just jamb the nozzle into the pilot holes and pump it a few times until some of the older grease oozes out of the ends of the shaft pins. I think I paid 20 bucks about 10 years ago and highly recommend it rather than modification to the 650.
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I can't tell if that's for real or not. Do all stage designs suck in CA as well?3 Gun in Calipornia will never die.
There you go.
bolt action is just another system to learn. kinda like shooting revolver.
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i have the same issue with my Brazos using Bob's recommended IMR 4756. My first clue as to what might cause this was when I found unburned powder in my comp one day. I laid the gun on the white side of a target on the bench and saw the powder fall out. What I surmise is that unburned power in the comp ignites on the next shot causing the flash.I've read a number of posts that talk about how 3N38 produces fireballs with major loads in 38 Super open guns. Some people have said that the amount of flash can depend on the gun while others say that when shooting a magazine full of rounds with the same load, some will flash a lot and some very little.
I've been testing several powders for a major 38 Super load and one of them is 3N38. I found that 9.6gr chrono'ed at around 170PF with 124gr MG bullets so I was shooting that load this morning to judge dot movement, etc. I found that not only did I have significant variation in the size of the fireball but the sound of the report changed significantly as well. Without trying to sound like an audiophile
the rounds with relatively little flash had a more typical bang sound while the rounds with the large fireball had more bass and a more rounded sound, more of a bong than a bang.I was very careful with OAL and powder weight on these (loaded them on a progressive, weighed the powder throw every 3-4 rounds and never saw significant variance) so unless I'm on the razor's edge of some threshold I don't think that the different flash/report was due to a higher powder charge. I didn't notice any difference in perceived recoil either.
Has anyone else experienced this? Anybody think it's anything to worry about? I'm leaning towards a different powder anyway; Silhouette is cheaper, uses less powder per round so less potential for spillage, and I saw no significant disadvantage in terms of dot movement. However, in case I decide to give 3N38 another try in the future I'd like to make sure that the difference in flash/report isn't indicative of being on the edge of a sudden pressure spike or some other issue.
I had the same issue with VV N105, also a Brazos recommended power. Infinity recommends only 3N38 in their open guns.
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its too easy to pull your barrel and use it to case check the ammo. The Dillon dies are fine. Consider adding a Lee full length resizing/crimp die in the last station. Move the seating die to the station next to the primer/flair station. With the case so full of powder it only has to move 1 station to close the case to prevent powder spillage. You can visual check case level as you set the bullet.When I am loading used brass I am having about 10% not case checking using EGW 100 (they all barrel check though). I use these rounds at the indoor range for practice and have not had problems with them. I am not happy with a 10% loss. I am using all dillon dies on a 650. My friend has a 1050 and uses a regular die then an undersized die and has less than 1% that won't case check. I don't have the luxury of a 1050. Any advise would be nice.
Thanks
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I would consider calling Brandon Strayer and ask him. On their web page they insist that only 3n38 be used in their guns so it must be possible. Brandon is a very nice man and is always willing to help.
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You can't use what you know...you can only use what you practice.
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For those who are now using the Stainless steel media, what size and type media do you recommend?
I have seen the stainless lock pins available and those unusual shaped semi-round as well as shot of various diameters.
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Using a media with water will instantly void your warranty. The CV series case cleaners are not watertight.
Thanks. My question was without the liquid but I think some of the fellows have convinced me that the tumbler is best.
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Look a few lines below this post and you will see how one Forum user "built his own tumbler".
Jim: I did not see that link. Could you re-post it?
Also, Did you use the pins or the balls and if balls, what size media did you use?
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http://www.biketiresdirect.com/product/dualco-grease-gun
this is what I use and it works nicely. The tip fits into the hole Dillon has drilled for grease.
Be sure to order the longer nozzle because the short one is not quite long enough to allow 90 degree alignment with the hole.
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I noticed a tumbler being used with Stainless Steel lock pins and balls of various shapes and size, combined with some water and soap doing a superb job of cleaning brass inside and out.
with the primer removed even the primer pocket is polished clean with no carbon residue. My question is can the vibratory cleaner CV-2001 utilize the stainless steel as a cleaning media?(without the water of course.)
Would the additional weight of the stainless steel media be too much for the Dillon CV-2001?
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I took note of a technique for cleaning brass in a tumbler using Stainless pins and balls of various shapes and sizes. This technique thoroughly cleaned the brass inside and out removing even the most stubborn carbon in the primer hole. (Primer had to be removed of course.) I would like to know if anyone is currently using this system and/or has anyone attempted to use the Stainless media in a vibratory cleaner.
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It is more blessed to give...than receive.
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Mobil 1, very wet. After lubing I will hand cycle it 10 to 15 times and wipe the excess off, usually at the back of the frame and thecomp/slide junction. I will also clean it between matches.
Most Open guns are well fit, after all you are aiming the frame in most instances. I want to do what I can to maximize the life of the fit and keep the gun hitting where the dot is for as long as I can.
I've been using Mobil 1 for years and have no complaints.
I agree. I turn the slide upside down and fill the locking groves with Amsol (like mobil 1) before I insert the barrel. Very liberal at every friction point and especially the hood.
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I just looked in the Blue Press and a new one can be purchased for 556.95. Case feeder 217.95 with one casefeed plate. Roller handle 42.95. That's 817.85. You make the call. Personally for that little difference, I would go new.
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I know a fellow in South Carolina that has this very color combination and it is a great looking work of art. Brandon does a good job.
the rounds with relatively little flash had a more typical bang sound while the rounds with the large fireball had more bass and a more rounded sound, more of a bong than a bang.
Dillon Lubrication
in Dillon Precision Reloading Equipment
Posted
You can buy a small grease pump with a needle fitting that will pump grease into that tiny hole. http://www.dualco-inc.com/products.push.html
be sure to get the one with the needle dispenser.