aedavis
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Posts posted by aedavis
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I hogged my Pachmayrs out with a file and Dremel to get clearance for the ambi safety. It didn't look pretty, but once they were mounted on the pistol it was unnoticeable and it worked okay.
Allan
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I've loaded a lot of 223 with W748 and BLC-2. I've had good luck with both - the Winchester powder gives better velocity but is a bit more temp sensitive. I've settled on BLC-2 since I can get it in 8lb jugs a little cheaper.
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500 pieces of fired 38 Special brass (with spent primers) weighs 4.75 lbs. 5 lbs should be about 526 pieces of brass.
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I use Power Pistol and haven't had any problems with it. I use 230gr FMJ Zeros.
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I like the price of the Precision Deltas, but unfortunately when I ordered 9mm bullets I found out they weren't going to be shipping until late August at the earliest. If I can't get some Zeros from Roze Distributing I'll have to check on availability of Montana Golds.
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Your supposed to clean your dies?
I've got something like 50,000 - 60,000 through mine without cleaning. But now I'm gonna be worried about it every time I load.
+1
I clean my carbide pistol dies almost never. Every 5000 rounds or so I'll clean my rifle dies that I use sizing lube on. Neither type has ever been very dirty.
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OK, so I looked on Dillon's and Midway's sites, and I found these two options:
Dillon's Super Swage 600 for $95 or the RCBS Pocket Primer Swager Combo Die for $27 (which I would put in my single stage press).
Does anyone have experience with either of these? Would either of these work well with 9mm?
I used a Swager Die similiar to the RCBS setup and it didn't work well at all. I currently ream my primer pockets with a countersink bit in my hand drill, but if I wanted to swage them again I'd spend the money for the Dillon Super Swage.
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I use CCI 350 (Large Pistol Magnum) primers for my 45ACP loads with no issues. I worked up the load carefully using Power Pistol powder and a 230gr FMJ.
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I haven't found it to make a lot of difference. I am going from memory here, but I remember seeing a difference of about 100fps going from 30F to 90F, with no apparent change of zero.
I don't know if that is much different than other powders, but it hasn't caused me any problems. If you are working at the maximum charge, it might be a problem.
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I have loaded many thousands of rounds on my Rock Chucker. I purchased a Square Deal B (set up in 9mm) a couple years ago and I just can't warm up to progressive reloading. It is obviously faster, but I like reloading and I don't really get in a hurry when I'm doing it.
I'll probably sell my SDB and just go back to single stage loading everything.
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I've been using a Pact Model 1 for nearly 20 years without problems. My Club Timer III works well too.
The couple times I've shot the skyscreens Pact was quick and easy to deal with in getting replacements sent to me.
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I haven't used it in 357, but I use Alliant Power Pistol in 9mm and 45ACP (along with 38 Special and plan to test it in 44 Magnum). It works, and making major in 357 and 45 shouldn't be a problem.
I also like it because I can buy it in 4lb jugs, which translates to about $13 per pound.
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I've had good luck using 124gr FMJs from Precision Delta. I believe they are the best price going for 9mm jacketed or plated bullets right now.
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9mm - Power Pistol
38 Special - Power Pistol
40 S&W - don't load for this
45 ACP - Power Pistol
223 - BLC-2
308 - don't load for this
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For once fired brass, I trim and then resize it in an RCBS X die. I haven't had the brass grow more than a couple thousandths after repeated firings since switching to the X die.
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I bought a second hand SDB a couple years ago and haven't had any problems with it. It is an older model set up in 9mm. The only thing I get is an occasional flipped or sideways primer, but that seems to be inherent in progressive presses.
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I've reloaded many thousands of 9mm and 38 Special brass and never sorted it by +P or not +P. The 38 loads have been moderate but the 9mm loads have been full power loads. I never noticed any differences. I've weighed Federal +P+ brass vs. their normal brass and didn't see a difference.
For what it's worth.
Per Starline Brass's website, 9mm+p and 38spl+p are no different than the non +p brass.38 SPL +P has no difference from the standard 38 SPL, other than headstamp designation for load segregation. Due to standard case design, will handle +P pressures with no problems
9MM+P has no difference from the standard 9mm Luger other than headstamp designation for load segregation. Due to standard case design, will handle +P pressures with no problems.
I get a lot of +p 9mm brass that has been through an MP5 and have no problems with it at all in my Glocks.
Bruce
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I use my Speer manual more than the other manuals I have (Nosler, Sierra). I also use loadbooks from the powder manufacturers a lot.
While I use the Speer manual almost exclusively to look up initial load data, most of my reloading data comes from the internet. Most all powder manufacturers have data posted online. You will also see a lot of good "tested" load data coming from here, but I would start with a manual and reference the info in there with what is displayed here (along with some other places). -
I use Power Pistol for all my 9mm handloads (and my 45ACP and 38 Special loads).
Allan
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I've used 69gr Sierra BTHP bullets in my 1:9 Colt HBAR with good results. Considering what you have invested in them, I'd load them up and see how they perform.
Allan
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I bought a used SDB a year or so ago, set up for 9mm. The original sizing die wasn't sizing the brass enough to chamber properly. I did some measuring, talked to Dillon, and they sent me a replacement 9mm sizing die that works perfectly.
If you end up having a problem with your loads not chambering, call Dillon and see about getting a replacement die.
Allan
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Hello: Merlin is incorrect. The "U" does size the case lower than the SDB. The "U" is also smaller in diameter than the SDB die. I would get a single stage press and use the "U" die in it. Then load on your SDB. I used to do this before I bought a 1050. We don't have any 9mm major shooters here but lots of Glock 40 shooters. I would size the 40 brass on the single stage then load on the SDB. It worked perfect. NO you can feel good about buying a 1050 with a "U" die. Sorry Merlin ;-) Thanks, Eric
It sounds like a solution's already been found, but here's what I did to fix this problem:
I bought a used SDB to load 9mm. I knew about the Glock brass issue and had ground down my RCBS sizing die to fully size the cases. With the original sizing die that came with the SDB, I wasn't getting the cases sized down enough. After a few measurements and a call to Dillon, I had a new sizing die for my SDB which now sizes the cases down enough.
Try replacing the Dillon SDB sizing die and see if it fixes your problem.
Allan
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Hi,
My wife just told me that she's purchased a new RCBS Single-Stage Master Reloading kit for me for christmas and
i've started researching where I will start in reloading .223 and .308 for my .223/.308 semi-auto rifles (Olympic Arms K16/DPMS AP4).
1. I'm trying to find a power that will help produce accurate reloads, work in .223 and .308 gas-propelled autoloaders,
meter well in the "Uniflow" powder meaure
that comes with the kit (I'm told VARGET doesn't meter well in this particular powder measure, someone recommended H335 instead).
I've used a lot of BLC-2 and W748 in my Uniflow for 223 loads - it meters great. According to my reloading manuals, both are suitable for 308 also.
2. I went and bought some full-length dies but have been told that "short-base" dies should be used for reloads to be used
in semi-autos. Should I trade for the "short-base dies?"
I haven't ever used a small base die - I've used a normal RCBS sizing die for my Colt HBAR with no problems. If your rifle needs a small base die to function, then it needs one, but I would try a regular one first. Actually, I'd buy an RCBS X Die to limit how much case trimming you have to do in the future.
3. I bought some inexpensive 55 gr Hornady FMJ and 150 gr soft-points for the .223 and .308 respectively to practice reloading
with initially but long term would like to pick out some bullets for both guns that will be good (not necessarily the absolute best)
for a punching paper, hunting game (where preservation of the pelt is not necessary), and home/self defense (in my rural
environment with only two of us living in the house). Any suggestions? Someone recommended Nosler Ballistic Tips.
There's nothing wrong with Nosler BTs, but I load Hornady 55gr SP exclusively in my 223 Colt HBAR since they are very economical (around $70/1000 at Midway or Grafs). I can get MOA groups if I do my part. Each rifle is different, but a lot of people I know get good results with the 55gr Hornady SPs. No comment on bullets for 308.
4. I've also been told that at least initially, since I'm reloading my once-fired factory brass, that I won't need a case trimmer or
need a tumbler/media. Is this true?
I think a tumbler is necessary. Even after 1 firing, your brass will be dirty enough to require a thorough cleaning. If you don't clean it, you risk damaging your sizing die. A tumbler kit from Midway is cheap. You could clean each case by hand if you didn't want to get a tumbler.
With regard to trimming, again, I suggest using an X Die. This allows you to only trim once, after the initial firing. I have had to trim all my once fired brass - just because your brass is once fired factory brass doesn't mean it won't be too long after one firing.
Thanks for any info,
Jon
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What countersink drill bit do you use for this purpose? I bought an RCBS swage die and I think it was a waste of money. I'm starting to think the drill is the most efficient way to prep .223 cases. I use the Lee trimmer with the drill and if I can drill the primer pockets that just might be the way to go.
Dave Sinko
I use a countersink just like this one:
Mine is a 5/16" bit, but anything that fits in the pocket should work. I don't love this method, but it works. I chuck the countersink up in my cordless drill, clamp the drill in my bench mount vise, and hold the case up against the countersink with one hand while running the drill with the other hand. It sounds wierd but works pretty well. I'm not sure this method gets a smooth enough 'transition' into the primer pocket to work in a progressive press - I load my 223 on a RockChucker single stage and prime with an RCBS hand priming tool.
I can't see spending $90 on the Dillon swage for the 1000-1500 cases a year I have to remove a crimp on - plus, I don't have the bench space. I think I might buy the CH4D swage die to try it out since it fits in my single stage press and is priced right. There's a good writeup on it here:
7.62x39 Bullets?
in Rifle/Shotgun
Posted
Berry's and Xtreme both make a 123gr plated bullet for 7.62x39. I haven't tried either one yet (I've been using Hornady 123gr SPs), but I will be buying a batch of them before long.
Limitations -
1800fps maximum per manufacturer (due to plating)
flat nose profile has caused some feed issues with certain rifles
You should be able to get them for around $140/1000, from Xtreme directly or from TJ Coneveras (for the Berry's).