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mngunguy

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Posts posted by mngunguy

  1. Can someone tell me why a machined tube of aluminum costs that much? Don't get me wrong, I'm all for people making a living and selling things at what the market can bear, I just don't understand the price point. I'm assuming you couldn't make these for $100 or else you would own the market forever selling them for $150, specially if they are a wear item that people would replace every 10-15k, but I just don't understand how they get to be over $300.

    It's the Ti firing pin. :goof:

    The price might seem steep but they really did price it right. Cheaper than the lightest carrier out there by a good margin and it includes a couple bits the others don't. The question is, will Boomfab respond?

  2. My intent of posting the results of the computer simulations is to characterize the different compensators in respect to recoil reduction and downforce generated and not rank them as in which one is the best. But there are some that appear to think I am trying to do more than that so I really don’t want to start down that road.

    I think that very sentence alone is why the Gas Hog and Seekins have been brought up multiple times. They don't look like the rest but get pretty good marks from joes and pros alike.

  3. Seekins makes a nice billet upper/lower with a nice large trigger guard and a unique magwell. Noveske has a nice flared magwell on their billet lower but the trigger guard is close to standard. There are some other nice ones out there and the billet models look awesome. Should be a fun project!

    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

    The Noveske Gen 2/3 lowers are forged.
    Here is their billet lower with the flaired magwell IMG_0194-800.jpg
    Thier flared magwell lowers are all forged. The picture you linked was pulled from here. http://blogs.militarytimes.com/gearscout/2011/03/01/noveske-flared-forged-lower-aka-the-ffl/
    That lower is a Noveske, it has a larger magwell, and it is a billet - not forged. I will make sure to call them tomorrow to confirm.

    They may have changed to billet for the G3s but all previous N4s with flared magwells were forged just like the article says.

  4. Seekins makes a nice billet upper/lower with a nice large trigger guard and a unique magwell. Noveske has a nice flared magwell on their billet lower but the trigger guard is close to standard. There are some other nice ones out there and the billet models look awesome. Should be a fun project!

    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

    The Noveske Gen 2/3 lowers are forged.
    Here is their billet lower with the flaired magwell IMG_0194-800.jpg

    Thier flared magwell lowers are all forged. The picture you linked was pulled from here. http://blogs.militarytimes.com/gearscout/2011/03/01/noveske-flared-forged-lower-aka-the-ffl/

  5. Seekins makes a nice billet upper/lower with a nice large trigger guard and a unique magwell. Noveske has a nice flared magwell on their billet lower but the trigger guard is close to standard. There are some other nice ones out there and the billet models look awesome. Should be a fun project!

    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

    The Noveske Gen 2/3 lowers are forged.
  6. Make sure to pick up and hold both the Nova and Super before picking. The Nova has a thinner receiver and felt better in my hands compared to the Super. The safety and forearm release level are in places easier to manipulate as well (my opinion) . You said Comfortech wasn't a selling point but if it was you can buy that pad and put it on the Nova as well.

  7. I use Hornady Steel Match 55gr for any shots out to 300yds. It's on the slow side compared to hotter factory loads but is sub-moa for me out to that distance with my Nordic 18". Other factory loads mentioned like xtac and xm193 were about 2moa for me and cost about the same. Only trouble with steel match can be finding it.

  8. The weight of the buffer is what matters, not the length of it or the spring. If you have a standard weight buffer it's actually a bit lighter than the JP rifle buffer already. If you have a H buffer then I'd either remove some weights from it or buy a standard weight carbine buffer.

  9. The KMR has inner diameter of 1.3" and the block's height is listed at 1.4", so I don't think it'll work. I'm using the seekins block with a kmr 13, and it clears the handguard. I've only shot it loading up on a bipod but it seems to stay in position well.

    The 1.3" ID is the width. The height is more than that to accommodate the gas tube and top of the block.

  10. So you ended up using a set screw style block? . 750? And even then you're still having issues shooting supported?

    I've been thinking about teaming this rail up with a 16.5 voodoo barrel but after seeing that most aren't able to get much of a reduction in gas using an adjustable block I may just use a standard low pro block and if need be a rubber city adjustable key.

  11. Hornady, Steel Match is very good.

    IMO, X193 5.56 is a military round. It is not known for being super duper accurate. That said, I have seen it hit steel gongs past 600 yards.

    Run of the mill commercial ammo is about the same as the x193 out of my JP.

    My hand loads; VV133/69gr SMK and upscale commercial ammo like Federal and Hornady Match stuff run <.3 MOA.

    IMO, unless your are shooting prairie dogs at 500 yds, X193 is a very predictable round. There is a big difference between $.36 andn $1.00 per round. You get what you pay for--I just don't need to spend a dollar a round. BTW: A fellow at our 3G matches usually wins shooting Russian steel ammo.

    It's soft shooting but Hornady Steel Match is sub MOA out of my barrel out to 220 yards (longest local range). XM193 is about 3 MOA at the same distance. I've been very happy with 55gr Steel Match so far.

  12. I just shot the Area 6 3 Gun Championship in limited. I won using a Leupold Prismatic but I am considering selling it. The Leupold is not day light bright and the long range stage had black steel targets. Granted my times were scored in the top 15 overall for the stage but that is because the MGM flashers at 200 fit inside the larger donut. I am thinking of either going with the Eotech with the AR ballistic drop (4 Dot) or looking at the Vortex spitfire because I have read that is actually daytime bright.

    Hope this helps,

    Adam

    P.S. It is a good feeling when your score would be in the top 15 if not top ten in the Tac Ops Division.

    Have you looked through that Eotech yet? Without the magnifier those dots are all but impossible to distinguish.

  13. My Nordic came with a Carbon Arms gas block (from CAs). Great fit and no signs of leaking. Being that I like to tinker and I wanted to know how much more gas I could cut off I replaced it with a Gen II Syrac clamp-on. That block has been doing great as well with no leaks so far and I was able to cut off a considerable amount of gas using Steel Match (step 8 from fully closed of 18).

    Before that I had the SLR Sentry 7 clamp-on but the hole on the block wasn't offset enough to properly line up with the hole on the barrel so I replaced it with the Syrac. Both use click detent adjustment systems which is what I was after.

  14. I started out with an 18" Rainier SPR profile and it was just too dang heavy, so I had it contoured to light profile. Balances very nice but its still pretty long with a Titan on the end, so I started looking at 16" and wanted something that would shoot as flat as my 18". I ended up designing what I wanted since I couldn't find it anywhere. 16" intermediate gas, weighs less than 18", shorter, more maneuverable than 18", and shoots just as well/flat.

    http://www.strongsidetactical.com/stretch-16-precision-barrel-assembly-16-223-wylde-intermediate-length-gas/

    Wouldn't you be better off getting a LW 18" barrel and a brake the doesn't weigh something in the 7 oz range? A LW JP 18" with a DR brake weighs less than a their 16" with a Titan. I suppose if you were sold on using a titan...

  15. you want to be able to cut the spring so don't get captured

    one of the reasons I was thinking captured is because of the spring kits they sell with 5 different spring rates. 80%, 85%, 90%, 96%, & 100% is what the kit comes with. They are for the captured assembly.

    http://www.jprifles.com/buy.php?item=JPSCS-PACK15

    If you are cutting the spring for the standard buffer, how much are you taking off at a time, and how many coils did you take off for your set up?

    The captured buffer ships with the black spring, just an FYI. I don't have the spring kit for the captured buffer but I do have the JP low mass buffer and centerless ground spring. I haven't had a chance to see how either effects the amount of gas required but from quickly putting both in and pulling on the charging handle it felt like the captured setup had a spring in it with less rate than the JP center ground rifle spring.

  16. Just measured my SLR Sentry SA7. Gas port begins 0.215" from the edge of the gas block....

    Mick

    Either your caliper is off or you measured incorrectly. I measured .236" and Todd Gardner, owner of SLR, confirmed it was .235", or .295" from the center of the port which is .12" wide

    Edit: He did mention having 3 production runs of the SA7 block. Maybe he changed to milspec (.295") along the way. Dunno.

  17. Depending on the size of the hole in the gas block (which may be at .125" dia)......you would not be cutting off anything. .125-.089 = .036, .036/2 = .018 offset allowed

    I was hoping for that myself but the near edge of the gas port from the shoulder of the barrel is .225" and the near edge of the gas port from the edge of the block is .236". The Sentry block is a thing of beauty and I really wanted it to work. I must have measured everything 6 times hoping for different results.

    Turns out Syrac spaces their port (near edge) .210" from the edge of the block on the Gen II's, plenty of space for adjustment.

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