Raydee38
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Posts posted by Raydee38
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I have triple charged with 3.9gr just to see and it fit.
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If the trigger is very crisp between 3 and 3.5lbs I will def give one a try
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Without the sear spring there is no way to lower the trigger weight like on the traditional setup?
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I think I will just save up and buy one of his full builds next season. I am guessing to get the full potential of his work retrofitting his slide to my frame may not be the way to go.
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I am wondering if anyone has bought the GI slide for their existing lower from Accuracy X?
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I ended up dropping to a 9lb spring to get a reliable function but the pistol just feels odd now. It's almost like the slide is going in slow motion but not all the time. Might have to try the variable 9lb and see if it feels any better. If not I am going to remove the optic all together.
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I am going to order a 9, 10, and 11# in both conventional and variable and see which runs the best. Is there a way to know for sure if and when the rate is to low? I don't want to damage the pistol with a spring than is to low.
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I recently added a slide mounted optic to my 9mm 1911 to use in NRA bullseye and I am noticing that the light loads I am using no longer work with the optic added. I am shooting 122gr bullets with 3.9gr of Titegroup. This load cycled the slide without a problem before but didnt always keep the slide locked back on the last round so I know the load is on the light side. With the optic now and the same load I get a stove pipe on just about every round. I know the stock recoil spring on the pistol is 12lb so the question is do i go to a lower 10 or 11lb spring or load the rounds with a higher powder load?
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I can pop mine out without a problem but I really wanted something that I could switch h back and forth without tools at the range. I am going to pit it up for sale but if it doesn't sell I may go the dedicated lower route if I can find one at a good price.
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So I picked up the target version for my 1911 but did not know that the conversion would not fit the 9mm 1911 because the ejector is wider and higher. I talked to AA and he said that since the conversion slide has its own ejector that I could remove the 9mm ejector. If I remove the ejector to use the conversion and put it back on when I want or use the 1911 as a 9mm would there be any problem doing that?
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Well Dillon came through for me, 3 at no charge
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I have been meaning to pick up a spare parts kit, might be a good time to finally get one.
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So I have been reloading for about 6 years on two Dillon machines and this morning I broke my first part ever. I think that is pretty good, let's just hope it's not a trend starting.
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Yes the pistol is new. I am going to break it in and see if I need to change the recoil spring. I put another 100 rounds through it today and the slide locked back on each empty mag. There is probably nothing wrong with it but it just seems to not eject the brass as far as my smaller pistols.
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I have been loading 4.0 grains of titegroup using 124 grain bullets in three of my smaller 9mm pistols and they all seem to shoot great. I recently purchased a 9mm 1911 and have been using the same loads as my other pistols but noticed on the 1911 that the brass is ejecting pretty weak and sometimes not locking the slide back on the last round. I am guessing I should load a little hotter for the 1911. Has anyone else found this to be true?
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Do any of you guys using CFE Pistol notice the outside of the cases burned up. I am loading up to 5.4gr using Berry's plated 124gr round nose and I am being told that I am not using enough powder to expand the brass for a good seal. I am seeing here that you guys are using even lighter loads. I have not had this load on a chrono to see what it is doing.
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I am using it with some Berry's 124gr bullets and I am having a problem that others are too. At the max load it looks like the charge is not enough to expand the brass enough to seal the chamber. I am getting a lot of burn marks on the cases and a very dirty chamber. So far I have loaded to 5.5gr and I still have the same problem. I have been reading that guys are going to 5.8gr so I am going to start bumping the charge up until I see that the brass is expanding or I am getting some over pressure.
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I have had mine for about a year in my basement and there has not been any rusting.
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I have loaded up to 5.2 grains and noticed that the primers were starting to flatten out. I don't think they were over pressured, probably just soft primers. All my firearms cycled even at the lowest charge so I decided to keep my reloads on the low side. I will up the charge a little at a time and see where the sweet spot is to get the expansion I need to seal the chamber.
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Honestly I did exactly that, I crimped just enough to take the flare out and still drop into my case gauge. I am going to pick up some factory ammo and see how it shoots and compare them.A low charge is what it sounds like but in no case could it be the amount of crimp. Crimp is a misleading term for what the die does for an auto pistol, all the die is supposed to do is remove the flare from the case mouth. Anymore than this and it will undersize the bullet and cause tumbling and all kinds of other problems you don't want like dangerous set backs and the like. Keep the crimp to a minimum and maybe up the powder charge a few tenths until the cases start to seal in the chamber and the powder burns more efficiently.
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I have not measured the cases to see how much they have expanded, I am new to loading 9mm but I will measure them and see what numbers I am getting.sounds like its not sealing the chamber
i.e. The case isn't being expanded enough to fill the back of your chamber so gases are coming out the back and the muzzle.
Try a tighter crimp BUT plated bullets don't generally do well with a tight crimp since it deforms the plating and causes poor accuracy
IF that doesn't work start going up with the powder charge
I've not used CFE so make sure you reference loading manuals etc
Watch for the normal signs of over pressure.
HAve you measured the cases to see how much they've expanded?
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I am seeing the same shooting through a pistol. The brass didn't get wet as far as I know.That is plenty of powder - any chance your brass was wet? Might try mag primers - how does it work in a pistol?
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I am having a issue in my 9mm AR build where I am seeing unburnt powder all over and the brass is very dirty on the outside. I am using Berry's 124gr bullets with 5.1gr CFE Pistol powder. I have been told that I may be under charged but I am leaning toward not enough crimp. I know it's hard to diagnose over the net but I am sure I can't be the first reloader to have this problem?
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I bought these from a small business and they were sold to me as new. They were a very good deal but after receiving them it was clear that the seating die was exchanged for an older used die. I contacted the seller who claimed the dies were all brand new and explained that the seating die was used. He did not have another die to exchange the old die with so I decided to clean the old die up and use it. I normally but from Brian Enos or Graf and Sons but I didn't in this case and got what I paid for I guess.
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How many rounds will 1 lb of powder make 9mm?
in 9mm/38 Caliber
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One pound of powder has 7000gr, divide 7000 by the number of grains in your load and that will give you the rounds per pound.