FlyinBrian
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Posts posted by FlyinBrian
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I don't think that any of those items would detract from the value, especially I you sell it here once you are done with it. Did you buy the gun as an investment or to shoot? The main thing that will detract from the value is to shoot it many thousands of rounds. Unfortunately, tI get good with it, that is exactly what you will need to do.
I definitely bought it to shoot, since I have shot it and it was unfired when I bought it
I live in the PRK where it is difficult to find these older revolvers due to the roster, so they command a premium. I got lucky to find this one in such good shape and the shop didn't even know what it was... they had it tagged as a C&R since it said "Model of 1955" on the side and they were convinced it was a 45 Colt, so I put it on layaway and then hammered them down even further when I showed them a 45 Colt dummy round would not chamber in it.
After looking through the suggestions again, I am thinking the changes are not that drastic... I guess the trigger smoothing is the only one I am hesitating on. I am going to contact the smith that Mike suggested and see how long it will take.
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So after reading through all of the helpful hints and tips, the only thing I can add is something that I added onto my tool holder... a strip magnet to hold the hex keys from rattling while loading
That is a slick trick!
(A few more posts and you'll be alls et to post pics.)
OK, here's the photos, now that I can add them
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Here's what you need to make your 25-2 competitive with any revo out there:
competition action job
chamber mouth chamfer
narrow/smoothed trigger face
100-pack of Ranch Products moonclips (~$35)
The next step might be upgraded sights, although there is nothing wrong with the factory set-up if you like black-on-black. Grips and cylinder release are matters of personal preference.
You will probably find that jacketed bullets shoot better in your gun than cast lead. Nothing goes in faster than jacketed ball anyway.
Thanks for all of the replies, I truly appreciate it!!
Mike, if I make the above modifications to a 25-2 that is in absolutely flawless condition, will I be hurting the value of the pistol? I've only had it 9 months and it was like brand new in a presentation box. Should I be looking for a "shooter grade" 25-2 instead?
One of the forum members here already offered me some very nice moonclip holders, so those are on the way
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I bought a Shooting Chrony Alpha Master from Midway on sale for $108 about 6 months ago. It is not easy to figure out the display/controls and the instructions are absolutely useless... but now that I know how to work it and have used it for a while, I like it!! I've tested both rifle and pistol loads with it, and the remote display makes it very easy to see the data and write it down after each string. I'm really happy with it and it seems like a good deal for the price.
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First, get more moon clips. Reloading them at a match is a PITA, and takes away from your time helping paste, and looking over the stages. Check with an experienced shooter and find a safe and legal holster, then enough moon clip belt carriers to handle 6 (USPSA/ICORE) or 3 for IDPA. A moon clip checker is also nice.
After that, go shoot, have fun, and you'll learn.
I've seen plastic clips and metal clips; are the plastic ones any good?
What is a moon clip checker?
Thanks!!
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I am totally inexperienced in competitive pistol shooting and I just finally went down to my club at the local range and signed up for the "action pistol" orientation class. While talking to one of the guys there, I asked about shooting a revolver and he mentioned that not many guys shoot revolvers there. I am wondering if that is a good choice for me as a beginner or would I be better off shooting semi-auto like everyone else? The reason I ask is that I have owned a S&W 25-2 that I truly enjoy shooting and I shoot it well. I also like loading 45ACP and my new Dillon press is pumping them out very nicely
Since I am not an experienced competitive shooter, I do not have any skills in regard to fast reloading. I imagine this is something I can work on learning. I do have around 6 speed clips that I got from the LGS, I think they are Wilson Combat brand? I just ordered the tool to load them as they are very stiff to get the rounds in. Up until this point I have just been shooting the 45ACP in this pistol without moonclips and just pulling the cases out with my fingernail, I imagine that is not the best procedure for a match
Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!!
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I received the case feeder yesterday and was able to get it installed last night and crank out 100 rounds without issue. I loaded another 200 this morning which also went really well. It's a little early for judgment, but so far the feeder is everything I wanted. It looks like the handle pulling time is about 20% less than without the feeder. It is also a pleasure not to have to take my right hand off the handle, orient the brass and shove it in the shell plate. The only problems I ran into we're that a 380 cases slipped into the bowl and it took me a minute to figure out why the feeder wouldn't push it into the shell plate and I ran the case feed dry once. Neither of those are the feeders fault. Overall I'm very happy with the feeder.
Thanks for the follow-up report. I am a new 550 owner and I am already thinking about getting the case feeder. I hope you report back again after 1K rounds and let us know how it is going
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I always sat in an office chair to load on my Lee presses, but now that I have the 550 on a strong mount, I am using a "Sears Craftsman" brand bar stool with backrest. I'm pretty tall so standing would only work if the bench was another 4"+ taller.
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What is the normal price you would expect to pay for a 550B used.
I'm thinking about getting one I saw there about 440 new for the press and a caliber kit (without dies) as I have got dies already. Been loading the past couple years on a single stage lee press haha.
So a little bit of a step up
So is it worth getting a used one. I'm glad that you don't have to worry if something dosnt work coz dillon will fix it
Cheers
Good question, I just purchased a 550B after looking around quite a bit. I learned that Dillon presses definitely hold their value, and for some strange reason, there are idiots on Epay that are willing to pay more for a used machine than what they could get the new one for... some of the bids I saw just don't make sense!!
If I could have found one locally for $100 less I probably would have bought it, but there were none for sale so I bought new, glad I don't have to search any longer
How is the availability of used machines "down-under"?
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Welcome to the forum. Care to share with us what you're interested in shooting with your new reloads?
Welcome from another Nor-Cal'er and also new Dillon owner. I bet you're going to enjoy your new hobby... it adds a whole new dimension to shooting!
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I've been reloading on LEE presses for the past few years and have seen a lot of people going on and on about Dillon presses, so last week I dove in head first and bought a RL550B. I had been researching things quite a bit and had planned on getting a 650 since I knew I would not be happy having to index the plate manually. I am fortunate to have a LGS nearby that stocks Dillon and also has 2 presses setup in their shop, a 550 and a 650. After looking at both presses and getting to try them out, I knew the 550 was the right choice for me. I've loaded a few hundred 357MAG and around 200 45ACP so far and things have gone great! In fact, I went to the range to shoot some test loads last Saturday and saw an ad where someone was selling 9mm & 40SW dies and shell plates so I bought both of those and also ordered more parts from BE. I'm getting ready to load some 40S&W this evening.
So after reading through all of the helpful hints and tips, the only thing I can add is something that I added onto my tool holder... a strip magnet to hold the hex keys from rattling while loading
I used one of those magnetic backings from a business card, I figure a refrigerator magnet would work just as well. I cut the business card sized magnet into three equal strips and stacked them on top of each other and then stuffed the stack behind the tools. Now all of my hex keys stay in a row and they don't shake & rattle when I am loading.
EDIT - I tried to include photos but I don't have enough posts here, so then I resized and attached them, but now I don't see them... oh well.
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My wife had trouble racking the slide on my SIG 226 40S&W, so I got her a 226 in 9mm and she has no problem with it since the 9mm has a lighter spring. She also has a hard time with the 1911 in .45 but she can get it locked back on the third try
Now that I think about it, I hope she wasn't faking it just so I would buy her another pistol?
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Welcome Brian!! Congrats on the 550. Just great machine, fantastic upgrade!
Do you shoot USPSA? if you do, join us at Richmond. We shoot every 1st and 3rd Sundays of the month.
Hi Reece, I am interested in learning more about USPSA, but at this point I do not do any type of competitive pistol shooting.
I am mainly a collector of Military Bolt action rifles, and my main focus point is Finnish Mosin Nagants. I still have a single stage press to do my 7.62x54r & 30-06, but I am contemplating using the 550 for my 6.5X55 Swedish Mauser loading.
I am a member of Bay Point R&G club and I shoot at USI in Concord mostly, and I make the trek to Sac Valley once a month for the Military Silhouette bolt gun match... that one is my favorite.
Is it possible to shoot USPSA with a wheel gun? I have a S&W 25-2 that I shoot quite often, it is a 45ACP.
Thanks,
Brian
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Hi,
I am new here, just joined after reading a few dozen threads and seeing some really great info available. I have been reloading on a Lee turret press for a few years and last week I bought a new RL550B. I am loading 357Mag and 45ACP but will be expanding into other calibers soon.
Thanks!!
Dillon Case Gauge problems... 357MAG
in Dillon Precision Reloading Equipment
Posted
I've had my RL550B for a few months and just recently started loading 357 MAG. I bought a Case Gauge for 357 and adjusted my crimp die based on the case gauge. Well as you can already probably guess, I got out to the range and could not get the rounds to go into the cylinder unless I forced them in, which I did not do. Once I got home and checked, I just needed to adjust my crimp die down a bit and run all the rounds through again. Luckily I had an extra tool head and mounted my crimp die in there and ran them through that way. What is the point of getting a gauge if the damn thing is looser than any of my revolver cylinders?
BTW I called Dillon and the tech said oh well, he doesn't use a case gauge and suggested I should be using the barrel of the pistol to check. I keep most of my pistols in the safe and don't usually have them laying out there next to my press, I guess I will have to now.
I measured the inside and it measures .3835" but I haven't measured the cylinders yet.